Racinjitter

Scotty, Your rb30 looks ready to build. The cylinders are clean as ever. I didnt look for crosshatching, but I am willing to bet that you will not need oversized pistons. (unless you want to:twisted:) As of right now I dont have a caliper or micrometer for meacuring them.... But in a couple weeks I will have them.

I will check it out on my way to the midnight gathering of drunken fools. It is in the storage unit a few blocks from my house.

Dunno, Any input Raff? Exactly what I was thinking. Everything internally looks really good except for the upper parts of the clyinders. Oh Scotty... Here is yours

Well Its been a long time since I last updated. I have installed a Wolf V500 that I bought from Ron Tyler from This forum. I havent got to set a good tune on it due to the winter, but I will have a good tune before I go to the strip the next time. I am sure the dual maps will come in handy also (read flex fuel). Here is a pic from when I first installed it and was testing to make sure I had all of the wires in the right pins. And next to my old ecu. It also came with a harness that plugs into my existing engine harness, making it plug and play. I bought a few new armrests from the dealer for a steal of a price and installed one.... I also was a part of a group buy for new clutch discs for the CLSD r200, so that will be getting a complete rebuild. Thanks to Careless (Raff), I now have a RB30 to start building up and started the tear down this afternoon. The last pic is another member's (scottyMiZ) rb30, which I am storing until he has time to come pick it up.

I was led to beleive that rb30's didnt have main girdles? I took the oil pan off the one, to find this...

To tell the difference between the two you will have to look into the throttle body plenum area. On the X02 one there will be small casting flash inside of it from the cheap casting mold. Other than that there isnt a real difference. If you have a long enough shank to clean it all off, it is no big deal, otherwise I would stay away from them. Who wants some metal going through their engine?

I read that a looong time ago. But great information for someone who is researching. Wow, it seems that there are never-ending rb30's now. I looked for, it seemed, forever. Then plop. Raff, Good to finally meet you. As soon as I go back to work I will start working on the goodie you let me borrow. I have the backyard treasure all lubed up and rotating on an engine stand right now. I may do a teardown tomarrow, as long as I can find my plastigage.

Are you running a romulator or nistune on your z31? If not the VQ map for the AFM is wrong and will add the wrong amount of fuel.

Also add the weight of the gear lube..... I would venture to say that all of the weight added would be closer to 75lbs. I remember shipping the crossemember and it was 34.xx lbs.

I weighed it with a drive on scale. So it could be off +-5lbs.

Raff, go poly you will love the new car feel and overall tightness of the revamped suspension. Then once you get tired of the boat feeling on the highway, get some 3ZR springs (or wait for the coil overs that are in development).

LOL!!! Aint that the truth. RB sound ftw!

My rb25det with all accesories a/c, p/s, alternator, maf, air filter, wiring harness, ecu, remote oil filter and oil cooler, rb25det tranny, nismo clutch, nismo pressure plate, slave cylinder, shifter, r33 crossmember, steering rack, pallet and two floormats weighed 750lbs. The engine did not have oil, however the tranny was full of gear lube. pic.

Anytime Raff!.... anytime. Anything I can help you with I will!

My stock Rb25det in my 88 300zx gets between 25-30mpg on the highway. When I drove to the drag strip (90miles) made 8 runs and came home (90miles) I averaged 22mpg. At the strip I turned up the boost to 13.5psi.

But only the supar hicas models, not all of them.

Niiiice. Do you plan on modding it? If so go to z31performance.com. I need to make a trip up your way next summer.

You are right about the vg30e/et being oversquare, thank you for the correction. I will edit the first post to state this.

Is this the same for all RB's? As the 20/25 have a completely different intake design than the 26. Is there an airflow picture of the intakes out there to comfort me? I just dont see how one cylinder could be forced into getting all of the extra air that the other cylinders didnt use. In most engines if the air isnt used by one cylinder it will be scavanged by another cylinder, no matter the location. As it goes through the firing order the engine may or may not use it. If it doesnt use the air, turbulence will be caused (not forced into another cylinder).

Wait, so the lesser amout of air that goes into a cylinder compared to a cylinder with more air with the same amount of fuel going to both will cause a lean condition? Is that what you are saying? Or are you saying that somehow the #6 cylinder intake valves are being forced open, forcing more air into the cylinder? If you are saying that the intake design is creating more heat for # 6 cylinder it very well may help contribute to the lean condition.

Dont you mean pocket prybar? I think My most important tool is the gear wrenches. My most valuable tool...??? prolly the multimeter.

Congrats Ron!!!! Well deserved, you have been helping me A LOT lately, I really appreciate it. BTW You busy friday?

in regards to the 5&6 lean condition.... With most inline 6's there tends to be more heat in the rear cylinders. When there is more heat, the fuel mixture should be richened up to produce less heat. The factory ecu probably compensates for this, but not good enough. Here is just an idea for taking some heat out of the rear cylinders, buy an extra heater core, hook it up to you existing heater hoses and mount it up front or somewhere with decent airflow. Then hook up a small electric fan with a thermostatic switch that is lower than what your normal operating temp is.

Well the factory Z31 just simply threaded into the oil pan with out direct contact to the oil. There are companies that make m16x1.0 to 1/8 npt adapters, I just bought a m16x1.0 universal adapter then cut the end off and tapped the midddle to 1/8 npt threads. Making the autometer temp sending unit thread into the fitting. It measured the radiant heat from the oil, instead of the actual oil itself. I'll take a pic of the factory z31 temp sending unit and post it up. You could cut the end off of the orifice, but then you woud need an o-ring so that there isnt any leaks. As for the S14 rb25 pan... It all depends on what crossmember you decide to use. If you use the skyline crossmember you can use the rb25 pan. I think if you use the stock crossmember you can use the 200zr oil pan? I am not sure if the s14 is front sump or rear.

^ I guess I should have put in some smilies. I didnt mean to come off like a prick. lol Sorry Raff.