denny411

my personal biased opinion would be to go with the 260Z/caddy hybrid, or maybe use the potiac 455. the 455 is not much more weight than the sbc but has more cubes and lotsa torque. I`m not sure what the weight diff would be between the caddy and pontiac engines, but you could still use the same trans and bell that you planned.

I`ve been there and done that too. I wasted a year and a half, and about 20 grand on a chick that was only concerned about herself and what was in it for her. Like others have said, I was too"whipped". I did finally get out, and it was on my terms. There is nothing more redeaming than being the one that ends it. You just have to be objective enough to know where to draw the line. If you don`t have a common ground and mutual respect, as well as similiar intrests, your relationship is doomed. That`s not to say you wouldn`t be able to stay together forever, BUT forever is a LLLOOooonngg time when your not happy. I would suggest cutting your losses and looking for someone that has more respect for you, as well as common intrest or hobbies. My .02

I would recommend buying a donor car with a complete and operational drivetrain. maybe look for something that already has aready had a recent rebuild. The local classified papers are a good place to look for these. You might be able to pick up the entire car for less than half of what a crate engine will cost, and you will also have alot of the little nickle and dime stuff that takes so much time and money to track down. talk to the guys at your local parts stores to see if any of the local gearheads do wrenching on the side. Alot of these guys are more than happy to help out young kids with projects, and you can learn alot from them. I personally like to help out the young kids in town in exchange for "Gopher"work around the shop.

I like the new look. It`s going to take some getting used to but I`m sure I will figure it out eventually.

As long as the seals and cups in the MC are still pliable, you could disasemble it and clean all of the parts with brake parts cleaner. Then lube everything with new brake fluid and reassemble it. OR..buy a rebuild kit and put NEW seals in it.

1.55 here(Oxford,Al) for regular unleaded. I personally remember .50 a gallon. I was 7 and would walk to the gas station to get gas for the lawn mower and my mini bike. I really don`t think our gas prices are too out of line. When I graduated from HS, it was 1.06. A.50 jump in 17 yrs is not really that bad. my.02

I personally live inside the city limits,about 2 blocks from the police dept. At one time I had TWO large New Holland 1500 combines sitting in my yard. None of my immediate neighbors were concerned. The only comments I had from them was that my place looked better WITH the combines than it did when I bought the place. The only complaints I got were from people that lived miles away. IMHO, I`m the one who put down the 100g`s to buy the place,plus another 50k for renovations. I should be able to do what I want with the place, especially if my NEIGHBORS don`t complain.

If I were still single I`d give that a shot. I`ve got a friend that`s getting divorced. I think I`ll email that link to him.

That`s pricless,

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "I've seen a carrot in a vagina, but never a vagina in a carrot" Got any pic of THAT?

My guess would be twin magnetoes

There have been 65 bids so far. Must be some hard up guys(or lesbians)out there.

If your car has a catalytic converter, what you are seeing from the tail pipe could be pieces of platinum covered in soot. It sounds like a plugged converter to me.

I would recomend replacement with an R200. they are relatively easy to find and shouldn`t cost more than 100.00 It also could be a u joint in one of the halfshafts. It seams to have the same symptoms as a bad driveshaft u joint.

You would have to have more than just the vin tag. You would need the tag/plate from the dash,door jamb,engine comartment,as well as the stamped numbers from the firewall(above the brake booster). The stamped vin is where the trouble would start, unless the 240`s didn`t have them. I imagine it would be no easy task to change part of the firewall

I use two large ball pien hammers. I position the face of one hammer on the side of the "eye" that the joint stud goes through. Then I hit the back of one hammer with the other. This causes just enough flex in the eye for the tie rod to fall out. The idea of the first hammer being held stationary is to transmit the force in a specific area. Also, hitting the first with the second reduces the chance of missing and hitting something unnintended. I`ve been doing it this way for 10yrs and it never fails. The key is,two BFH`s

could having the wrong ATF cause these problems? The tranny was changed just before I got the car and may have the wrong type in it.

I doubt you will find a hood that is completey finished on the under side. I have a pretty nice f`glass hood. the support core of the hood is finished, but the rest has a rough texture to it.

I just received my (ebay)nitrous kit yesterday. It was exactly what I expected. The only problems I`ve had was with the same seller who refused to contact me after the sale. From what I`ve heard i was better off. He was known for takin the money and runni'n.

It IS slow to engage with your foot on the brake. It doesn`t slip at all once it engages though. I started the car the other day and let it run for about 5 mins, this time when I put it in gear it had no delay or slippage at all. I did check the fluid and it has no burnt smell to it. What fluid does this trans require?

I think I saw one on ebay last night.

I have a 94 hyundia elantra with an auto trans. Lately it has been slipping when cold, but shifts and runs fine once it is warmed up. Are there any tranny Guru`s here that could help me diagnose my problem? I`m going to start with a fluid/filter change and see what happens. It feels like it`s not pumping fluid. I moved it into the garage last night and when I accelerated to pull forward, it felt like their was drag on the engine but the car wouldn`t move forward until I really reved the engine. I can hear what sounds like slurping or possibly sucking air when the car is idling.Or maybe it`s fluid spraying inside the pan. My first thoughts would be the pump or the converter, but I`m shooting in the dark. If it is the converter I have a place semi-locally that could rebuild it. Are their any specific tools(pressure guages) that I could use to diagnose this? If I were in Ohio it wouldn`t be much of an issue. I would just look for another tranny with no concern of how long it takes, but we are in Alabama and our other spare vehicles are in Ohio.

I could go for a couple of the steel mugs too. They would look nice next to the coffee maker in the garage. When you get an idea of what items you will be ordering, just let me know and I`ll buy a whole butt load of stuff. you can never have too much Z stuff, not to mention "HybridZ stuff"

When using the msd crank trigger distributor and magnetic pickup. What msd boxes can be used? Can the 6al box be used, or do you have to use one of the 7al series boxes? Are the crank trigger systems reliable for street/strip, use or should they be track only?

250lbs is what the add says. That would help you hook up.