rturbo 930

I'd just order a new set of wheels with a different offset. It's by far the easiest solution here, and I think adding on a flare on top of what you've already done would ruin the look of it.

Is that Turbomeister's car? That really sucks.

Yeah, the K series will definitely take more work to get to the same place, so I can understand if you wouldn't want to deal with all that. But just to be clear, I meant >300hp N/A. No turbos involved. If you're going to boost it anyway, an F20c is fine, but I think the K series is the winner for all out N/A power, if you were going that route.

Sounds like a cool project. I'll be following along. Have you considered a K20/24? It would have to be adapted to the trans, but IMO it has more potential (think >300hp). From what I've read, the F20c is pretty much at the limit from the factory.

Those are super nice. Are you gonna use camber plates or the stock strut tops?

It's good to hear you can already weld. I would use 20gauge for the floors, since that's about what the original sheet metal is. Not sure why you brought up stainless. I personally don't know of a way to weld stainless to regular steel. You can get replacement floors from Zed Findings or Tabco. As for the donor car... I'll be honest, I don't see the point. If the car is worse off than yours, it won't be any good as a sheet metal donor. If it's nicer than yours, it would make more sense to scrap your shell and use that one. Yes, you have an early '70, which makes it a little more desirable, but not that much more desirable.

As much as I hate to see a Z scrapped, I think you should really consider getting another shell. You would have to be a very patient person with a lot of time and fab skills to fix that.

I highly doubt it makes 325hp. And certainly not for $800. He'd be an idiot to sell it for that little. If it seems like it's too good to be true...

I don't care for the fully shaved rear, and I think if you leave the indents, but run without a bumper it'll look like it's unfinished. I'd pull out the indent a bit (around an inch?), and modify the bumpers to fit by pulling the sides out the same amount. Should look OEM-ish. Of course, do some mock up to make sure it won't look goofy. You could also fill in some of the indent, and shorten that part of the bumper - about to where the hole in the indent is. This way, the pocket wouldn't be as deep.

Yeah, I'm not really understanding the purpose here. Just about everything is covered by the current Z sites, all of which have been around for 10+ years and have TONS of info.

I'll be following this to see how it turns out. Looks great so far!

What I'd really like to know is how streetable that 100+ HP/L motor is, and how long it'll last between rebuilds. Zredbaron's 3.1L, for example, is definitely not a street motor, but he also didn't build it for the street.

Take a look at the 930 market before you do anything like that. Prices are SKYROCKETING! It's unreal. http://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch/Report?vc=1276191 http://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch/Report?vc=859066 I'd clean it up and flip it for a profit.

I wonder if you could order a shorter spring? I know there's different lengths available. Redoing the perches, as much as it would suck, would probably be the easiest thing to do though. If you could get that tire in a 45 (maybe 50?), that would help too, since it looks like your rear tires have more meat on 'em.

Oh, definitely. Been there done that. I'm mostly looking in CA and AZ, and my plan is to ship it or drive it back. It's just a matter of finding the right car, checking it out (because I've bought sight unseen before and regretted it), and getting my name on the title before anyone else.

I think it will look similar, but I think real Wats would really pull everything together. Of course, you'd lose your tire selection - I'm assuming those are 17s. If I'm honest though, I'm not a fan of the Rotas. They look too modern for a Z, I think. But with the mirrors and headlight covers on the car, you'll be close to your mark. Not sure if it bothers you, but I think the front end needs to come down a bit, or you need a bigger tire. There's a lot of wheel gap there compared to the rear, which I think fits the wheel opening well.

That's a great find in this part of the country. Where in NJ are you? I know there will still be deals to be had, but it's harder to get my hands on them when they're 3000 miles away, since I'm competing with everyone local. Lost out on a great car last year. It didn't last 2 days. I had no chance. But I'll find a way to get myself a nice Datsun.

Yeah, it's nice, but it's overpriced. I think $15k would be fair if it's well done. Like I mentioned in my other thread, I'm seeing a lot of cars with silly asking prices, although sales trends on Hagerty show that prices have stayed pretty flat, and have actually gone down in the past ~5 years. However, I'm not sure how accurate their price guide is, but when I was looking last year, the prices I saw fell in line with what Hagerty showed. I really hope everything doesn't start asking outrageous prices thinking their Z is suddenly worth its weight in gold, I was hoping to get a decent driver for ~$7k this summer. Seeing what has happened to 930 turbo prices recently, I really hope the Z doesn't trend that way too... but I don't think it will.

I think this is the green one. I thought it looked familiar. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO4Yhqo8E6I

I would think the guys with money would only be interested in the really nice or rare examples though, so those cars would go up in value, but the ones that need a bit of work, or don't have matching numbers, etc, would pretty much stay the same. I don't think Zs will ever get to the point that the early 911s have though. Too many were made.

Just combed through craigslist... noticed a few asking prices that seemed waaay to high - more than I expected. I assumed the guy selling on ebay was nuts, but now I'm not so sure. Decent cars seemed to be going for 6-8k last year, and those were mostly nice drivers - #4 cars according to Hagerty. Didn't see many of those on CL though, mostly projects, and semi-restored cars. Maybe I'm just reading too much into it? I really hope prices haven't gone up that much, I'm planning on buying a solid Z as soon as I sell my E30 this summer. No more rust buckets for this guy.

That's about right. IMO a welded diff is worthless. Your diff is not an LSD, and welding the diff is a very cheap way of making it into one. The downside is that the wheels can't turn independently anymore.

Yeah, I agree, even $8000 would be high for that car. I'm thinking $6000 would be about right. I saw two very similar cars last year (wish I could post the specifics, but I lost that info in a HD crash), even down to the color. Both had L24s, and the asking prices I think were both about $7000. I don't know what they actually sold for, though. And I think the fact that it has an L28 is going to lower the value quite a bit for the market he's selling to. Would actually be a great car for me if the price was reasonable, since I wanted to do an L28 swap anyway, and I'm a big fan of 918 orange.

Or is this guy nuts? I'm assuming, and hoping he's nuts, I haven't bought my car yet . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-AWESOME-240Z-240-z-RUST-FREE-Original-Low-Mile-Collector-EXCELLENT-TRADE-/161286338210?forcerrptr=true&hash=item258d6a36a2&item=161286338210&pt=US_Cars_Trucks "Driver quality" paint job, L28 swapped, speakers in the doors, poorly done dash cap... I would expect this car to go for HALF the asking price. I was kinda of tracking the market this time last year, and I saw a few like this for 6-8k - and they had the original motor (not that I cared).

Although I don't have nearly as much experience as you, I'm under the impression that Weber 45s would really be much more than he needs, and probably not as street friendly as 40s. He's only looking for 200hp. I have 40s and I feel that would be a better choice. Correct me if I'm wrong. 9mm L24 rods are generally used with an LD28 crank in a stroker.