bumble zee

Yes I have a fuel pressure gauge sticking out of my cowl and I can watch it in real time. As for running lean anywhere in the rpm range it stays consistant. Just slowly leans out as the rpm's go up now. The fuel pressure goes up a consistant 1psi to every 1 psi of boost. No I dont have a wideband and I am not taking my mixture gauge as accurate, I just read the green and the red, and when it hits red I can feel the difference in the lack of power. I guess I could take a video of it... I am stuck at 10 psi because if I go any higher, it goes full red.

What are the odds?? Battery stopped accepting a load and got stuck at work. But the knock sensor wasnt it, still does it, swapped ECU's and AFM's. Going to get a new O2 sensor tomorrow, mine is about 3 yrs old and I run rich so maybe its bad, also going to test my head and water temp sensors tomorrow also.

Yes my AFM is dialed back, and I dont believe my plugs for the ECU are loose. I have went through them before and tightened them. I am going to dissconnect my knock sensor for a trip and see if it is picking up my exhaust since it is a straight pipe out of the side. Yesterday I just went through my plugs and checked an re-gapped if nessasary them to .030 for the higher boost, I am running 12psi. That should be a fine gap for that I would think.

I am running the 81zxt ECU and ignition. Overtime of a couple weeks my Z will slowly start to lean itself out. If I swap out ECU's, it will run normal and the mixture is normal, but it will still slowly lean itself out all over again. Anyone ever have this problem before? I have a Walbro 255 fuel pump, it doesnt loose pressure, and i am running the stock zxt fpr. I have 370cc Svo injectors.

http://free.hostdepartment.com/s/spooledupracing/Emag.htm

This isnt clear, but the 1 matches the notch And the link is aligned with number 1, you can see the nub in the 1 hole. And the other link is aligned with the divot (i scribed a line in the block) on the crank And the cam lobes for number 1 are at 10 and 2, cant see really, sorry So is that correct??

Ok, according to the research I have done, I need new companion flanges. From what I have found, there are 2 options... $400 cnc flanges, or $250 welded flanges. Also from the archives, the spline count on the 240 is different, and I need to find 280z hubs. Here is my question, I have the Z31 companion flanges. Could I take the Z31 and 240z companion flanges and just switch the flange part where the cv's bolt to? Do you see what I am getting at? I have not started this swap at all yet, so you could say I am blind to what I am doing. I just want to get as educated as I can and know what can and cant be done... But this is Hybridz, anything is possible

The private message page isnt loading. It just opens a new window and then does nothing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4584841932&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_ReBay_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT Ran across it looking at some of his other auctions.

What voltage have you checked? Have you checked the voltage at the coil when the key is on, and when cranking? I'll look today to see what wire I hooked it up to.

Where are you getting your switched power from? have you tried to just wire the switched power to the battery just to see if maybe you need to find another switched power? I am using my ignition as my cranking and switched power.

I have replied to your question at the link you posted above. Does anyone have any 82 and 83 write-ups?? I am very interested in seeing the difference.

Check your crank sensor. Is yours in the distributor? or down by the crank? On the 81 they are down on the crank. My sensors were really dirty when i fist put my car together. Cleaned the terminals that read the magnets on the crank, and it fired right up, and make sure it is aligned right. Also make sure that you are getting power to your ECU and ignitor during cranking... I have made that mistake also.

Click here to see Video Sorry about the sun, it was a sunny day.

Figured it out. Plug gap was to large I think. But reset the TPS and changed out the ECU.

Alright, here is a little background information, 81zxt engine and efi intercooled 370cc SVO injectors (Brand New) stock T3 turbo No emmisions 76 intake Here is the scenario; You can really feel any thing in first and second because they go by to quickly, but 3rd through 5th you can definatly feel it. It feels like it is losing power for a split second then its back to normal. This is a completly random happening. I have looked in the archives at zcar.com and I got alot of TPS results, but the turbo TPS only reads idle, correct? My fuel pump is going bad and needs to be replaced, but according to my a/f gauge it is still 2 bars rich at WOT. I have regapped my plugs to .040 the other day and it didnt seem to make a difference. Any help would be appreciated.

You could tighten the spring on the afm flapper. I wouldnt go to far, adjust like 2 to 3 teeth at a time and see what happens.

Fuel pressure?

Your welcome! Glad it could help you out

Now, onto the Ignition harness... This harness is a little tricky. There are a lot of wires that are in this loom that disappear into the dash of the zxt. What you need is the loom from the coil to the plug that plugs into the FI harness. Now off the coil harness plug, there is one yellow wire that runs out to the engine bay and attaches to the ignitor, DO NOT CUT THAT WIRE. The rest of them you can cut, but leave plenty of room to work with the cut wires because you will be using them. Figure P You can see the coil harness plugged into the FI harness, you can also see the wire that runs to the ignitor on the coil bracket. Also notice the wires you cut are being used again. Figure Q This is what the coil / ignition harness plug looks like that plugs into the FI harness. The 3 prongs labeled are the wires you are going to be using. NOTE: This is the coil / ignition harness plug end. This is not the FI plug end. 1. This is the yellow/white stripe wire that runs to your ignitor on the coil bracket. 2. This wire needs to be run to a switched power 12+ V 3. This is a ground Figure R You can see that black with white stripe on the plug for the ignitor, that needs to be run to a switched power 12+ V, the wire next to it is the yellow with white stripe that runs to coil / ignition harness plug that plugs into the FI harness Fiqure S Here is the ignitor that is attatched to the coil bracket Fiqure T These are running from the coil, this is what your ignition harness is conssted of. That yellow wire is the wire in Fiq. P that is running to ecu plug to the ignitor plug in fig. R The Blue wire is running off your coil and that will goto your tach. Now on the 81 harness you need the resistor The Black/white strip wire needs to be run to a switched power. Fiqure U That is what the resistor looks like, it is burried in the zxt dash. Here is a little schematic to help you out And when it is all said and done. It looks great

Now, onto the Ignition harness... This harness is a little tricky. There are a lot of wires that are in this loom that disappear into the dash of the zxt. What you need is the loom from the coil to the plug that plugs into the FI harness. Now off the coil harness plug, there is one yellow wire that runs out to the engine bay and attaches to the ignitor, DO NOT CUT THAT WIRE. The rest of them you can cut, but leave plenty of room to work with the cut wires because you will be using them. Figure P You can see the coil harness plugged into the FI harness, you can also see the wire that runs to the ignitor on the coil bracket. Also notice the wires you cut are being used again. Figure Q This is what the coil / ignition harness plug looks like that plugs into the FI harness. The 3 prongs labeled are the wires you are going to be using. NOTE: This is the coil / ignition harness plug end. This is not the FI plug end. 1. This is the yellow/white stripe wire that runs to your ignitor on the coil bracket. 2. This wire needs to be run to a switched power 12+ V 3. This is a ground Figure R You can see that black with white stripe on the plug for the ignitor, that needs to be run to a switched power 12+ V, the wire next to it is the yellow with white stripe that runs to coil / ignition harness plug that plugs into the FI harness Fiqure S Here is the ignitor that is attatched to the coil bracket Fiqure T These are running from the coil, this is what your ignition harness is conssted of. That yellow wire is the wire in Fiq. P that is running to ecu plug to the ignitor plug in fig. R The Blue wire is running off your coil and that will goto your tach. Now on the 81 harness you need the resistor The Black/white strip wire needs to be run to a switched power. Fiqure U That is what the resistor looks like, it is burried in the zxt dash. Here is how to wire up for the 83zxt ignition courtesy of jon (in the green Z) on ZCAR.com who made up this diagram. Here is a little schematic to help you out And when it is all said and done. It looks great

Figure D This where the dropping resistor plugs into the ECU harness Figure E This is for the airflow meter Figure F These are your plugs for the injectors Figure G This is where the crank sensor plugs into Figure H These are your water temp sensors. The one in the back that you cant really see the wire color plugs into the sensor on the gooseneck, the yellow colored wire is for your temp gauge. That will have to connect to your stock wiring for your exsisting temp guage. Figure I These 2 wires are grounds, they bolt nicely to the intake manifold Figure J This is your TPS plug Figure K This is the knock sensor, and the 2 wires that plug into it. Figure L This is the head temp sensor and the plug for it. Its in the same part of the harness as the knock sensor Figure M This is where the FI relay is located (not pictured, the relay itself) this is the plug for it Figure N Ok, this is in the same loom as the FI relay. There are 3 wires that you will need to cut and splice. First off, don't cut any wires that are going to the plug for the FI relay, those need to stay intact. There are 5 other wires not attached to the relay. They are from left to right; -Green - Constant power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt constant) -Black with white strip - Switched power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt switched power) -Blue with red stripe - is switched power for your fuel pump relay (has 12+ volts when key is on, will have power for 5 seconds if car is not running to prime the fuel system, and will have a constant 12+ volts when car is running.) The yellow and white wires you see bent off to the side you will not need and wont be using Figure O This plug is for fusible links. Those white wires on the left you will not be using, but the brown and green wires go to the + post on the starter. And that is it for your FI harness.

Figure D This where the dropping resistor plugs into the ECU harness Figure E This is for the airflow meter Figure F These are your plugs for the injectors Figure G This is where the crank sensor plugs into Figure H These are your water temp sensors. The one in the back that you cant really see the wire color plugs into the sensor on the gooseneck, the yellow colored wire is for your temp gauge. That will have to connect to your stock wiring for your exsisting temp guage. Figure I These 2 wires are grounds, they bolt nicely to the intake manifold Figure J This is your TPS plug Figure K This is the knock sensor, and the 2 wires that plug into it. Figure L This is the head temp sensor and the plug for it. Its in the same part of the harness as the knock sensor Figure M This is where the FI relay is located (not pictured, the relay itself) this is the plug for it Figure N Ok, this is in the same loom as the FI relay. There are 3 wires that you will need to cut and splice. First off, don't cut any wires that are going to the plug for the FI relay, those need to stay intact. There are 5 other wires not attached to the relay. They are from left to right; -Green - Constant power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt constant) -Black with white strip - Switched power (Needs to be run to a 12+ volt switched power) The end from the relay side needs to goto the switched power. Not the harness side. -Blue with red stripe - is switched power for your fuel pump relay (has 12+ volts when key is on, will have power for 5 seconds if car is not running to prime the fuel system, and will have a constant 12+ volts when car is running.) The yellow and white wires you see bent off to the side you will not need and wont be using Figure O This plug is for fusible links. Those white wires on the left you will not be using, but the brown and green wires go to the + post on the starter. And that is it for your FI harness.

So to state the obvious, remove old engine. The turbo engine is a direct bolt in and requires no modification to your existing motor mounts. Next, after the engine is in I did my wiring. It is very scary for a lot of people, it was for me also. But I had tons of help from hybridz.org. So if you have a 75-79 Z that is fuel injected and you took your old FI hareness out, you will understand how to install the turbo FI hareness. If you are swapping into a 70-74 Z, you will have to cut a hole in the firewall to fit the FI and ignition harness through the engine bay to the passenger cabin. But before you do, you should know what the plugs and wires that you will be needing, and where they are located. Figure A Standard S130 zxt FI hareness If you have been looking at yours, your probably think, "What did I get myself into?" I did that... but after doing this swap in 3 cars, I laugh at myself now and what I had first thought. I will start with the ECU end and work my way out to the engine bay, starting on the drivers side and then work over to the passenger side. Figure B These plug right into your turbo ECU Figure C This is where the Ignition harness plugs into the ECU harness. We will be coming back to this plug and harness because it requires modification.