ktm

Exactly. I typed up a response last night that basically stated the same thing, just a bit more verbose. If your head is getting rebuilt, it takes all of $15 to $20 to drill and tap the holes by the shop. Add another $30 for SS hose and AN fittings and you are done. I would not remove the head just to do this modification. However, if the head is off for any reason, it is a good "while I am at it" modification.

Rossman, you are correct. You stated it better than I.

Yes.

When I was attending UT Austin for graduate school from 1994 to 1996, it snowed a few inches that winter with accumulation. There were over 800 accidents in a 24 hour period. While the news reporter was reporting the story on Mopac, you saw three accidents occur in the background.

Simply look at the Megasquirt Map sharing thread. You can see target AFRs and some timing maps, all of which are plotted across RPM and manifold pressure. Are you running an AFR of 11 at 5 psi? 2 psi? If not, then when do you switch? What ratio of water and meth? 50/50? 80/20? There is more to this than simply Yes/No.

Your fueling with 440s may be an issue at 22 psi. I have 440s that flow tested at 503 for all 6. I am running 53 psi base fuel pressure as well. My duty cycles are 80 to 90% around 22 psi. Be careful

The ground for the gauge lights on a 240z is the light bulb holder itself, not a separate ground wire like the 280zs. The bulb holder has a small metal strip that grounds out on the gauge housings.

Duh. The 5250 is specific to torque in ft-lbs and power in horsepower. Thanks Tim.

Unless I am missing something, torque and horsepower when plotted on the same vertical scale must cross at 5250. Things get a little odd when torque is on one scale and horsepower another. Saying that, your original curves are plotted on the same vertical scales as your revised curves. Torque and horsepower for both runs should cross at the same RPM if the scales are the same. Notice that on your latest run the curves cross damn close to 5250. Converting Nm to ft-lbs indicates that your torque and hp are on the same scale. On your latest run, the curves cross at 5250, at ~167 hp and ~ 167 ft-lbs (227 Nm).

How can the new torque and HP numbers cross at one RPM and the old numbers cross at a different RPM? They both should cross at the same RPM.

Then you have not been in the JYs. I routinely hit the JYs in Wilmington (2 large ones there), Sun Valley (1 large one there), and an import only by Autoclub Speedway and I usually run across 1 S30 and quite a few S130s.

You are in California. The Z32 is subject to bi-annual smog testing; the 240z, while not exempt from smog regulations, is not subject to bi-annual testing. Unless you get the swap BAR approved, the Z32 would be a PITA come registration tag time.

I see what you are saying now. As I indicated above, it is a problem of over-simplification. There are too many variables to make such sweeping statements.

Dave, I was simplifying my explanation with regards to fuel requirements and expressing it in terms of tuning parameters. I know it is directly related to the mass the engine is capable of injesting. However, the mass of air is a function of MAP when talking about forced induction. Your turbo is external to the cylinder and is providing the air mass. The "efficiency" of the manifold and the head will allow more of the mass for a given boost pressure to reach the cylinder and not be lost due to losses (i.e., small diameter runners, sharp bends, reducers, etc.). I was simply trying to make a correction that simply swapping out a turbo does not necessarily result in more power for a given pressure. It may or may not, depending on where the other turbo is on its compressor map and where the new turbo is on its map. I fully understand the differences in efficiency and should have qualified my statement. Greater efficiency, less work, less heat, more mass, more power. The issue has quite a few variables and oversimplification leads to conversations like this one.

As for the GT turbo series, I guess I need to read some more about the decreased spool characteristics of the BB turbos. I know that my T03/04E 50 trim, 0.63 A/R will spool to 22 psi by 3200-3500 rpm in 3rd and 4th gear; 15 psi comes around 2900 to 3100 rpm. I am able to achieve this two ways: 1) springing the WG actuator and 2) my EMS controls a boost solenoid, which does not let the WG actuator see MAP until 15 psi.

That statement is not true. Manifold pressure is manifold pressure, regardless of the size of the turbo. Your fueling is tied directly to your manifold pressure and VE. The only way to get more power for a given manifold pressure is to increase your VE by intake and/or head work. Boosting at 10 psi on the stock T3 and 10 psi on a T4 results in the same power, everything else considered. However, if you are pushing the limits of the smaller turbo, then you will see an horsepower gain by switching out a turbo to a larger unit.

My god, listen to that gear whine!

It is all about balance. Spend the day with her on the weekends and work on the car at night. During the weekday, make sure you have a nice sit-down dinner together and relax. Spend a couple hours with her and then go and work on the car later that night for an hour or two. She'll have a day where she wants to meet with her friends which frees you up to work on the car. If you really care for her you'll find a happy medium some place. The problem you created by spending (I am inferring this from your statement that you did things you normally would not do) a lot of time with her is that now she is used to you always being there. All of a sudden you are now spending (considerable?) less time with her and it is something new. She feels like she is being replaced or that you've grown bored with her. This must not be something new to you, though, since you stated that "Women get pisse sometimes at my obsessions". You really need to achieve balance between your relationships and your hobbies. This is something I've had to teach myself (obsession prone as well) too. It's tough going from a single guy with no one to "report to" and being able to do whatever you want, to having a significant other who now commands more than (what you perceive) to be their "fare share". Welcome to hell.

I refused to go this year. I hate the whole concept and I hate the crowds. People are surly, inconsiderate and self-absorbed/centered. My wife dragged me along the last 2 years and I told her not again this year. Saying that, she told me that this year the crowds were not that bad. She started at Wal-mart and was easily able to pick-up what she was after. Around 7 am she hit Staples (we have a Walmart, Staples and Target in the same complex) and they still have plenty of their doorbusters for sale.

Answer to #1.5 - It is not a direct swap. You have to do a little bit of drilling.

A few of us have swapped the Z32 tranny in our S30s and we have all encountered the problem of retaining our mechanical speedometers. The Z32 tranny utilizes an electronic speed sensor. Over in the RB forum, some one posted a possible solution for the RB25 gearbox. This got myself and Proxlamus (Ryan) pursuing possible solutions based on the discussions contained in the thread (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136439). I am not going to regurgitate the entire thread, needless to say Ryan stumbled upon the correct speedometer assembly from a D21 hardbody truck. I say correct assembly because there are quite a few choices to select from. A picture of the speedometer pinion assembly with the part number is below. I tried other parts as well with no success. They were both too short and the diameter of the pinion assembly was just a bit too small. The assembly in the photo above is a perfect fit in length and diameter. I installed it yesterday and took it out for a drive today. Needless to say I am excited to have a speedo again! The speedometer is approximately 5ish mph too fast at 75 mph since the pinion is not setup for my 3.70 LSD differential. However, I am not going to complain at all and am thankful I can utilize my stock speedometer. I like the period look of the gauges and of my LED lighting modifications.

You need to tell us what car you have. The 240zs lighting system powers the lights by switching grounds. The lighting circuit goes through the combination switch (the stalk on your steering column). In other words, all of the current used to illuminate the lights goes through the combo switch. You need to check for corrosion on your fuses, clean the combo switch, clean the headlight grounds, etc. Dim lights means you are not getting a full 12 to 13 volts at the headlight. You are not getting the full voltage due to resistance in the circuit. The resistance in the circuit is a result of corrosion, frayed wires, gaps in connectors, etc.