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John, give up the name of that powder coater! Most places I go to down here in OC are $60 to $70 per wheel.

I picked temperatures that were just on the hot side of normal operating temperatures. IAT's have less of an impact than engine temperature on detonation. I am also modifying fuel and timing based on engine temperature. For instance, I've logged my IAT (before methanol injection) and recorded a faily consistent 40/42 *C during pulls. I start to pull timing at 48 *C. This was with engine temps at the time around 80 *C (normal operating temps). Now, I could have high IATs and high engine temps, and would be modifying my fuel and timing with both. Some supercharged applications run from 65 *C up to 87 *C when heat soaked. I selected a value that was conservatively low, but outside of the normal operating temperature. Once my engine temps get over 90 *C, I start to pull timing. This is because the entire engine is now "hot". The cylinder head is quite hot and the cooling system is working overtime.

Each car is different. I am using the intake air temperature modifiers for fuel and timing. I drop timing when IAT's hit 48 *C up to a maximum of -4 degrees at 60 *C. My fuel is modified using a linear relationship; +5% at -64 *C to -10% at 190 *C. It would be difficult to dyno tune IAT compensation since it is typically only experienced at the "extremes".

Ben, I've done this exact thing when I had spare channels and you are on track. You install a limiting resistor in-line to drop the voltage from 12/13.5 volts to the forward voltage of the LED. I am also using Wolf to control indicator LEDs on spare channels using the same idea (and limiting resistors): 1) Methanol Injector 1 Spraying 2) Methanol Injector 2 Spraying 3) Coolant Temp greater than 200 degrees 4) Boost at 15 psi 5) Boost at 20 psi 6) Methanol Pressure greater than 90 psi

I found out why it was not resetting back to zero. The stock L28ET knock sensor is a 0-1v sliding scale. My knock sensor, when sensing "knock" (or anything resembling it), would spike to 1v and stay there. I determined this by logging the knock sensor with my Innovate LMA3 aux-box.

Nice numbers. Are you sure about the website address though? I keep getting sent to some generic page.

Welcome. Please feel free to share any innovative ways you have Wolf controlling your setup.

I am running two 700 cc/min FJO Racing (www.fjoracing.com ) methanol high speed solenoids. They are pulse-width modulated (PWM) controlled and fully mapped across RPM and manifold pressure. Ron answered this question beautifully. My methanol pump setup is just like Ron described and you hypothesized. I utilize a relay that Wolf pulls to ground based on boost pressure. As soon as the target boost is reached, Wolf energizes the methanol pump relay. Ron, it is uncanny that you selected Output 7 as your example. Output 7 is what I am using to control my methanol pump relay. , except that I use Aux HL5 as my control channel. You only truly appreciate something if you have to work for it. Wolf's tech support is useless as you've found out. Ron was a great source of information for me while installing Wolf and I've had to teach myself everything else. Just wait until you get to their Multicontroller outputs. Talk about confusing. I've finally figured those out and have devised a nice little 3 output rheostat box that will adjust fuel and timing on the fly. I am also using the multicontroller outputs to pull fuel and add timing based on methanol pressure.

Good to see you did not sell the car. Thanks for the documentation and photos.

I know that it is illegal to tamper with emission control devices even for pre-1975 cars. I was more interested in whether or not pre-1975 "classic" cars were being harassed. You can still have random checking, but they give the "classics" a pass.

Tim, as I understand it only the satin black is rated at the high temperatures that turbo's operate. The cerachrome (sp?) is not rated up to 2000 deg F, or at least that is why my ceramic coater stated. My exhaust manifold was coated on the outside as was my turbo turbine housing. The DP was coated on the inside and outside.

In the end you have to pay to play. Yes, you can run meth instead of an IC to cool the charge. However, you are solely dependent on the methanol for intake charge cooling and you also need to tune for the meth. Unless you have a failsafe in place, you'll pop your motor if you lose meth while under high boost. MJ, what is HIN? Also, were the cars that were stopped pre-1975 or even pre-1980? At the Japanese Classic Car Show this year, Irvine PD was walking around the facility as well as providing traffic control outside. All of them were pretty cool and just enjoying the show.

Keep looking on Ebay for deals on the LS1 coils (cars or trucks). Also check out LS1tech.com. I bought a full set of 8 LS1 coils for $75.

You are just being argumentative. You can only see it up front if you bend down and look for it from no more than 10 feet away. Hell, it could be confused for an aluminum radiator. I guess that Irvine is not in California anymore. If they are inspecting under the hood of a L28ET swapped 240z, you have more to worry about than the IC. Your logic is flawed. First you say you are trying to shave weight and not have a flashy IC. IC's do not weigh that much and I just showed you that you can have a "stealthy" setup on a 240z. Hell, I am even running both horns in their stock location. Now you say that you are worried about cops inspecting under the hood. Guess what? Your L28ET swap, unless certified, is illegal. If you made it a legal, certified swap, you could not run more than stock boost and you could not run Megasquirt (legally). Also, how many V8 swapped 240z are running around California? If the cop asks them to pop the hood they are just as screwed and they do not have an IC.

Oh yes, an intercooler weighs a ton and is totally conspicuous. Stealthy enough? (yes, I am running a 24x12x3 core IC)

Evan, not trying to imply that you did not. I was echoing your sentiment about the HF drill press. I have found out that hard way that no matter how good your tool may be, it is only as good as its weakest link.

I bought their 12-speed bench model for $100 2 years ago and have absolutely no complaints. In addition to the drill press you will need something like a drill press vice to hold the part while you drill. Additionally, good drill bits go a long way as well to drilling a clean, straight hole.

10/73 makes it a 260z, just like modern production cars, a car produced in mid to late 2007 is advertised as a 2008.

Just to chime in, my 5/72 build 240z has vertical bolts.

Wolf V500 can use the 280zx turbo distributor. You can even modify the CAS disk to enable full sequential ignition and fuel injection.

Ryan, if you look at the pinion you will see that there is an 1/8-in. (?) wide slot. I simply inserted the pinion until the bottom of the slot was flush with the tranny and I cut a thick washer to fit so that the washer hole was over the bolt hole while sliding it up into the pinion slot. You can see the slot in the picture above, it is to the left of the o-ring at the very edge of the pinion body.

$500 is the average going price for a complete engine. There are those who will say that you can find them for $200 to $300 (and they do exist), but I would budget for $500. I picked up my complete engine, harness and ECU for $500. The engine, while unknown mileage, was in good condition. Many of the parts still had almost factory condition plating on them.

The LC-1 needs the RPM converter for it to be of any use. I opted for the LC-1 and the LMA-3 auxbox. This combined with Innovate's Logworks make tuning very easy.