ktm

Yep, you are PRIME Zcar.com material. Edit: Hmmm, you editted your post. A cooler head prevailed, eh?

Hey now, they are Yokohoma Avid S/Ts. They are the best tire I could find in 225/60R14.

Idle for a stock turbo motor is 20 to 24 btdc.

It's aluminized. I live in So. Cal. and do not have a need for a stainless system. Vildini did not make the bends themselves. It is fabricated from pre-bent pieces and welded together. Any decent speed shop/muffler shop would use pre-bend pieces. I would be leary of buying a DP made for someone elses car who I don't know, unless I saw the DP on the car itself. That's me. Still, if it's an NR auction, I would bid on it. The last DP I saw for sale on Ebay went for $130.

Yes, they are raised white letters, but I have them facing the inside. In retrospect I should have put them on the outside.

I would have to disagree with Wigen. The DP, while flowing better than the stock DP, would still require a custom exhaust from the DP back. The cost of the DP is a little less than half of the cost of a custom TURBO back system that is built specifically for your car. See this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=803512#post803512 I got the entire exhaust from the turbo back, MINUS the muffler, for $400 from Vildini Motorsports. The muffler was another $130 shipped from Summit.

It's the angle of the camera. The muffler body is as close as it can be to the rear valence without touching it. The stock tip does protrude a little bit out the back....about 3/4 of the way under the bumper. I am going to run a brushed aluminum tip though.

I am still working out the bugs and need to do some more tuning, but idle has been set as well as 0% load timing. A little bit about the exhaust. It is a 2.5-in. at the turbo immediately opening up to a 3-in. dp. The exhaust is 3-in. with mandrel bends. I wanted Adrian at Vildini (great guy to work with, knows exactly what you want) to put in as few bends as possible, and what bends must be in should be gentle. My exhaust is cocked at an angle out the back. He makes the turn from the tranny tunnel with a ~60 degree and ~30 degree bends. I am running a Borla XR-1 racing muffler. It is rather loud but sounds GREAT. In the video I only rev it up to about 4000 to 5000 rpm.

Woooooooooohooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!! I figured my miss out!!!!! It was due to my stupidity, but nonetheless, she purrs like a kitten now!!!!! Now I am doing the happy dance!! Expect a write-up in the Other EMS forum in a couple weeks.

You do realize this is a Z forum, right?

I need to give a HUUUUUUGE shoutout to Ron Tyler. He and I were on the phone quite frequently all weekend. Without his help, I would not have been able to get this project done.

Thanks Mike! I am glad the XR-700 worked out for you. I was just about to send you a PM inquiring about it.

After three grueling days in 104 degree ambient heat, after three gueling days dealing with issues, she finally fired up today!!!!!!! Once I cracked the throttle plate a little bit and bumped the starter, she roared to life. I have a nasty miss that is attributable to cylinders 2, 4, and 6. The new plugs are clean as a whistle....not ANY evidence of combustion and they do not smell of gas. Plugs 1, 3, and 5 are black as night, covered in soot. The exhaust sounds GREAT, even with the miss (Borla XR-1). It is a very EVEN miss. Still, she's alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks.

....towards the passenger fender or the driver fender? Thanks.

All turbo charged cars with intercoolers have intercooler piping. Comparing a turbo charged car with an intercooler to an N/A car is an apples to orange comparison. ....and the time to fill that reservoir is a function of the flow rate. A flowrate of 600 cfm is equivalent to 1,036,800 cubic inches (600 ft3 x 1728 in3/ft3) a minute.....

I just had a Borla XR-1 installed on my car; 3-in. in and out. It was not the polished SS oval shaped model but rather the round one. Vildini Motorsport in MV did the install.

Straight reducer and then a 90 degree pipe. A 90 degree reducer would hit the steering shaft and would also not give you the clearance you need to run under the oil pan.

The red with blue is your POWER wire(s) for the dash lights. The ground for 240z dash lights is contained within the bulb assembly- there is a small metal plate that contacts the gauge housing thus grounding the light.