Mike C

Hmmm. I remember seeing more names in the book. Oh well. Start here and see if they can turn you onto a US supplier. This is what is in the book and doesn't appear to exist. Contact Developments, Berkshire, England contactd@globalnet.con.uk and their website, http://www.racecar.car.co.uk But I found these sites: http://www.cbperformance.com/category.asp?CategoryID=6 http://www.gruntled.com/Dellorto/Parts.html http://www.carburatorsaustralia.com/

Sounds like the turbo toms setup. I trust you got the exhaust manifold? It is the most important probably. I think that setup used the SU carbs mounted side by side facing forward?

They are pressure lines, but not neccessarily for an oil cooler. ALl of the oil coolers for small blocks either replace the filter or sandwich. I think they are both pressurized and not a return. Hopefully somebody else knows for sure. I don't feel like looking it up...

I found an auto parts store in New York state through my local auto parts store. No idea what I did with the number though, darnit. The Weber/Del'Lorto book from http://www.motorbooks.com has a list of suppliers in the back. I'll get you some addresses if you need them, let me know.

Your 3 speed will work, but not the best performance trans! Most likely it has a 3.5 first gear and your 260 as noted either a 3.36 or 3.54. This thing should go like stink in first gear! Or at least spin the tire pretty hard with an overall first gear of 11.76 with the 3.36 diff. WIth a very short cam, ie a 600-4500 rpm powerband, the car should run really well with the 3 speed. Once you go to a bigger cam and higher upper rpm, the 3 speed ratios will be just too wide. The low weight of the Z will help a lot. Let us know how it works out, and in the meantime the budget solution could be a Saginaw cast iron case 4 speed. One nice thing about the 3 speed to 4 speed swap is they should use the same clutch disc, same trans mount, and same driveshaft so no other money should have to be spent beyond a shifter. The Saginaw is pretty much compareable to the T5 in terms of strength. If you don't speed shift and do clutch dumps they will survive reasonably large amounts of power.

As I said above, I have heard that the V6 tranny is the same as the Ford. Maybe a rumour, but it just MIGHT bolt up to an adapter bellhousing designed for putting a Ford tranny behind a SBC. Both Mcleod and Lakewood manufacture such an animal. You might be able to find dimensions on their websites. PAW is a McLeod dealer, and everybody seems to carry Lakewood (another Mr. Gasket Co.) You can also go to http://www.advanceadapters.com and check out what they offer. They have lots of trans specs and dimensions in their buyers guide even though most is for trucks.

I had a chrome one and it was prone to vapor lock. I ended up running a red pump as a pusher to the chrome Holley mechanical. Eventually pulling the mechanical off. I resurrected it for awhile for use in my Jimmy. Same Result. I run Carter street/strip pumps in both of my trucks and bought a mechanical strip pump for my Camaro FWIW, as I am going to retire the obnoxious red pump ASAP.

Most motors bypass a significant amount of oil past the filter anyhow. I have two motors with 100k miles plus run mostly on Fram filters. I am notorious for buying the filter on sale... Most important aspect is probably frequency of change interval. Thinner oils also are filtered better than the higher pressure higher viscosity oils that get bypassed.

Just buy the JTR book first. THEN ask questions. The JTR mounts DO bolt to the stock Nissan motor mounts. They use adapter plates that then bolt to the Chevy motor and mounts. You have to fab a new crossmember for the transmission mount however. Chevy never made a 289 but a 283. The 289 was the boys in Dearborn. BUY THE BOOK! BUY THE BOOK! BUY THE BOOK! BUY THE BOOK! If you are serious about this, the book is very straghtforward for a reasonably skilled mechanic. All of the fabrication is explained and detailed AND they have a price list. Actually, it's probably on their website as well.

Also depends on what year your 350 is. Around 1977 they changed oil pan seal designs, around 1979 they swapped sides with the dipstick and in 1986 they went to one piece rear main. As a general rule, Corvette oil pans are the only ones that are really different (Other than 63-67 Chevy II V8 pans) but since none of the GM pans have have a kickout, and there is no crossmember underneath the pan in the Datsun, any GM pan should work providing it works on the engine you have.

Please post if you figure which F150

Awesome! I LOVE junkyard tech. I'll keep my eyes open for one of them myself.

Doh! At least that's ALL it is! Dynomax makes some excellent hi-flow cats reasonably inexpensive. Personally, my Camaro has a 2.62 first geared Super T-10 and 4.10 gears, and I LOVE it. Can't believe you don't like the 2.66/3.70 combo. May not need it for stop and start, but should reallly get you going at the track. More gear does make it easier to spin the tires, but also makes it easier to modulate that wheel spin with your right foot. We'll see if you perspective changes more as you drive it!

Can also be a throwout bearing. They are known to make noise sometimes with no load on them.

There are 2 diaphragms that come in the kit, one is a 30cc accelerator pump diaphragm and the other is a 50cc. If you do not have the 50cc pump housing, cramming all that extra rubber in the 30cc housing is monkeying with your accelerator pump. Fix that firts, then work on your fast idle problem.

Just assume that your element is round and not tapered, use the smaller diameter, let's say 3"? and you can do 2*Pi*1.5*6=56.62. You actually have a little more than that because of the taper, but me old brain doesn't recall the formula for surface area of a cone. The round one I have, 4*3.14*9=113.04 in^2

ARP specifies different torques depending on whether you use 30w motor oil as a thread lubricant or their special lube. Amazing how much LESS torque is required when using their lube because of thread friction.

I run the stock 240 manifold and "downpipes" into the fishmouthed 2.5" piping. Everything I have read shows minimal gain on an NA motor with the header, at least not enough for me to endure increased underhood temps and noise. I'm working on an L28 swap with triple Del'Lortos and will keep the same setup.

I found the big 12 inch wouldn't fit everywhere you wanted to put it...and just generally had more approval for my 9 incher.

I bought a round cylinder K&N for my homemade cold air intake with 3" inlet. It is 4" by 9" and from Summit racing was $35. It has a galvanized end cap with a stud for a mounting bracket or strap. The tapered ones are more expensive, so seemed a no-brainer.

I've always run 2 1/2" on my NA L series motors. I have not noticed a reduction in low speed torque, but the opposite. And the 2 1/2" will keep up with most any mods you do for the NA motor. I personally like the Walker Dynomax mufflers. I have a 2 1/2" center in/offset out and it tucks up amazingly well.

Friend of mine from a truck board I do sent me this. Thought you guys might like it! He lives in Kansas and said it was a from his local track photos. Driver is a lady, as well. Too cool.

Do you mean the input shaft? 4th gear is 1:1. The mainshaft is locked to the input shaft with a slider. Technically, there is no 4th gear gear set. When NOT in 4th gear, power goes through the input shaft and into the cluster gear for EVERY other gear.

The answer to that is yes and no. Some 240sx have a viscous LSD, but it has a different spline count than the clutch type or open r200. The SX is also a short pinion r200 and is NOT interchangeable with the earlier r200. Also, R200 made before 84 or so are 10mm ring gear bolts and the newer ones are 12mm.

The 82-83 2+2 ZX should have the same CV's as the turbo cars and are much more common.