Mike C

LOL! In '94 I paid $659 for it and though it excessive, but as time has gone on, it appears to be a better and better deal! Especially as the number of $ Demons seem to be stacking up... It looks like the Profrom mainbody coupled with an old 650dp might make a pretty decent street carb for warm climates at a bargain basement price. I haven't seen any tests of the body, but it is rated 750 cfm and has adjustable air bleeds and I think downleg boosters if memory serves. You could profile your own throttle shafts and get some thinner screws.

I have that same carb. 4779S3. The stage III BG with profiled throttle shafts, removed choke horn, polished venturis, 4 corner idle, and 1040 cfm. Idles awesome, pulls cleanly just off idle. I couldn't agree with you more that they should have stuck with it. Everyone I know with a Demon tossed it in favor of an HP Holley. Davinci makes a wicked carb as does the Carb Shop. CFM doesn't hurt you as long as you keep velocity up, and the stage III is awesome in that regards.

Only occassionally will a powervalve blow on a backfire. Usually old age failure is more common. The cure is a ball bearing in the PV passage that seals off under a backfire. Do a google search for how to mod a Holley for PV protection and you should find it.

Nissan never had a "factory" AC 240. All of the systems were dealer installed and most had the York compressor. They make a great offroad air compressor for a 4x4 but aren't the ticket for air conditioning. Either of the GM styles (axial or rotary) work much better. Ditto the later Nissan AC systems.

My doors were already cut for 4" speakers, so I went back with another set. I drilled the spot rivets out of the spare tire hold down and flipped the tire over. This increased the space enough to put a free air 8 in a board cut to the shape of the floor under the carpet. The speaker grill was recessed to be flush with the top of the board, then the carpet put back over it. This works well for me, and is very stealthy!

There are two different style trans yokes as well. One has an o-ring on the output shaft and a vent hole in the end of the yoke. Many times mysterious leaks can come from this yoke vent and be virtually un-trackable. If your shaft seal and governor cover prove to not be the source, you may want to check the yoke for the vent hole and if it is there, replace the yoke with an unvented one. http://www.motorbooks.com has a TH350 overhaul manual if you need more info.

Like everything else, AC is covered in the JTR manual. Usually requires using your donors GM compressor and having custom hoses made. You should get a book on AC and learn differences between orifice and valve type systems and their integral pressure switches to see which will work best for your application depending on your donor vehicles year and style of AC system.

I have never seen a block that ONLY had the staggard bolt pattern. I am pretty sure the 168 tooth flywheel will not work in the GM T5 bellhousing, only the 153. If you MUST use the staggard bolt starter, the GM permanent magnet motored starter is a good choice. The Nippondenso motored CVR starter (similar to 88 Corvette and some others) is available from Powermaster with staggard bolt pattern, but once again, only for 168 tooth flywhell. Your best bet may be to get a Lakewood or McLeod scattershield that will accomodate the larger flywheel, but if memory serves, with the JTR installation, the big flywheel and starter have clearance issues? I have two of the CVR Nippondenso style starters, one on each of my trucks. Both are large flywheel, but the CVR starter has two sets of straight across bolt holes that work with either flywheel. The non-supported nose is the only way to use a block mount starter on my SM465 4 speeds cast iron bellhousing that originally had a bellhousing mount starter. Here are some pics of the GM starters, in several itierations and one of it exploded: In the first pic, the left two are for the 168 tooth flywheel. They are two different designs, I like the one on the far left the best. The second from the right is for a 168 flywheel from a 4 cylinder. The far right is the small flywheel. All of these starters are from boats. The top starter in the exploded photo is the same as the far left in first photo. It is from a 96 LT1. The bottom starter is identical, but once again from a boat. The brush assembly has a 1 1/16 socket stuck in it to keep the spring loaded brushes in their holders. I learned the hard way how difficult it was getting them all held in to their sockets simulateneously... The CVR starter is $150 while Powermaster has either 168/153 GM starters for $199. GM performance parts has the 168 tooth starter rebuilt for $129 or the 153 new for $175~.

The center intake manifold bolts are at a different angle on the 87 and up motors. The heads will work on any of the blocks with the right intake, at least in general. 2.02/1.6 valves don't work with sub 4" bores and things like that.

This linkage hooks up to the stock assembly same as the SUs.

I'll shoot a photo of my Del'Lortos this weekend and post for you. SHould be near identical.

Also noted earlier is the lower hose could be collapsing if the spring is not present and I don't know if it has been mentioned, but a rusty or damaged impeller can flow water at idle but have sufficient cavitation at speed so as to not pump any water.

Wow, that's BAD! My big block chevy pickup gets 12 mpg... Anytime you are looking to improve economy, start with the basic tune-up parts. Air filter, cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. I like Borg Warner hard parts, Denso plugs, and Taylor Spiro Pro wires, and a K&N air filter. Once again, the K&N is more $ than a paper element filter, but you'll never have to buy another one. Once the basic tuneup is in place, then you can start checking FI components. I recommend a Nissan service manual over any of the auto parts store books. I know they are expensive, but well worth it if you ever turn a wrench. O2 sensors are about a 50k mile replacement part, especially during the 80's. If you think gas is expensive, you'll faint when you see what a complete new exhaust will cost including a new converter, but I see it as virtually mandatory upgrade for economy, drivability, and performance.

That little car took a real pounding! . Pack it in, pack it out...

Form follows function. Completely idiotic me thinks, but so is the very concept of the Escalade they are attached to... JMHO.

THis is one I found awhile back that I really like: They have others as well, and they have trans pans and diff covers, here's the link: http://www.yourcovers.com/

I like tall cast aluminum. They can be had plain for about $60 or so. I'd dewax them and paint entire motor same color. For a bit more money , about $80, Edelbrock has a black powdercoated tall cast aluminum cover. I like the ones Greimann posted or if you want lettering, Darn you Tim, I was busy looking for a pic and you beat me to it! and Grumpy added his ipsofacto!

That's cool. I really like the M coupe, but seem to be in a minority. If I HAD to buy a late model driver without considering passengers!, it would be the M coupe.

I agree Scottie that the terminology is screwy. Effectively, the Corvette half shaft is the upper control arm, but that completely leaves strut type IRS uncovered. Hopefully somebody can find more info. I've been curious as to the design of the Supra IRS as well. You'd think this wouldn't be such a difficult concept.

I know nothing about the design of the C5 IRS, and as of yet no one has serously broached the conversion topic really since it incorporates a pseudo trans axle assembly and Z space is at a premium. But the C3 and C4 IRS both use the half shaft as a locater. Primary difference is the trailing arm single link on the C3 vs. the two "dog bone" links on the C4. I had a half shaft retaining clip break on my C4 IRS, and the car did some squirrely stuff! Visually there was nothing wrong with the car, but it would try to change lanes for no apparent reason! Talk about a pain in the "rear" to fix...

Thans for the great info Dano. THat is a nice looking distributor, I had wondered why that solution had not been broached for older FI motors, and obviously it has! I have contemplated modifying somehting for the front of the motor as it is really nice that the LT1 drops into a Z so easily without modding the hood latch.

Reider Racing is $100 less than that IF they can ever get them... It still might be that the CalMini Xterra front will work. It's only $449 but would have to be sleeved for 10mm gear sets. I just can't confirm it will fit and am not in the $ position to risk it right now, although I might soon. I guess I can always eBay it if it won't fit...

The Z MIGHT be within the guidlines because it does NOT use the half shaft as a locater as the 'vette and Jag IRS do. There is no doubt that the 'vette IRS is NOT legal for IHRA or NHRA in sub 11 second cars.

I guess you know, too, that not ALL 8.8s are independent? Most are solid. The 8.8 will take tons of abuse, as will the GM 8.5". Either are a good source for swapping, but both will require narrowing most likely. The R200 is as strong as either of the other two IMO, however.

Historically, the OEMs never had any luck with turbos and carbs. Only with the advent of EFI did turbos really become effective. Air/fuel is right most always and the ability to intercool is paramount. IMO, forced induction is for only AFTER you have converted to EFI, or at least simultaneously.