Mike C

There are two different style adapters for SBC. One is the Stahl, and I don't rememeber the other... You can use these to run large tube headers (above 1 7/8") on a SBC if you need extra large headers. Not only is the BBC significantly longer, it is IE IE IE IE patterned instead of EI IE EI IE patterend. Won't work in other words. A better solution would be to get a header kit and build your own from scratch.

http://www.toocoolkits.com/gene.htm I can see new life for Harvest Gold and Avocado Green appliances!

Go to their products page and check out the adapter bellhousings they make! BH19 adapts Toyota to Nissan SD22 diesel BH47 a blank Chevy bellhousing you can machine yourself! BH73 Supra to SD22 BH84A for Nissan 3.0 and Muncie/T10 BH92 adapts the supra to Nissan 3.0 BH99 Supra to Chevy V8 Looks like they have over 100 different bellhousings for engine swaps! Wonder if the SD22 has the same pattern as the L6? Looks like the Supra 6 speed could be an option behind the Chevy V8! They also have lots of Ford bellhousings as well. Actually, they have all sorts of cool stuff! This is a new addition to my bookmarks!

street racing is an oxymoron. Street car or racing car are mutually exclusive IME. For a high-output STREET SBC, I would recommend a Performer RPM. (Compression 11:1 or less, cam with overall duration less than 285 degrees ~ 240 @ .050.) For a hardcore strip motor, a Victor Jr. If you run a cam above 240 degrees at .050, the Victor Jr. is a suitable "street" manifold as well with all of the caveats of a single plane manifold.

I have decided that I want to build a full tilt drag car someday, and have been looking for a 92-96 E36 (318is or 325is) but you just can't find one cheap. I'll back half it and do a solid axle. The 3 series is an awesome buy for holding its value. We bought a lease-return '95 325is for my wife in '98 and it has been a great car. Another reason I'll buy a BMW for my daily driver. The 5 series and 7 series are different story from a dollar standpoint, however, depreciation monsters. Good buy used! You can get a 2000 5 series for less than $20k! There was a letter to a columnist in the paper yesterday about a 2001 Mazda Millenium the writer had purchased. He was doggin' Mazda because the trade in they offered him for his 2 year old $27k car was only $12k bucks. Ouch. It was his argument that Mazda should never have charged so much for a car that was going to be worth so little in just 2 years. The columnist suggested he do better research on resale next time.

Thanks Scottie. I have avoided posting anything as I didn't see as polite a way to address this topic as you did!

I thought to myself, "Hey, maybe here is an American car I could actually buy!" LS1 power, 6 speed, a backseat you can get in, and best of all for a Pontiac, NO CLADDING! Afterall, the Z28 started around $19k for windup windows and cloth seats. Then they released expected MSRP...$35k. Thirty five thousand? Whatever. I'll pick out a nice2 year old 528i sport with leather and a 5 speed. Won't be as fast, but I'm willing to bet it'll be a better car.

I had that same idea... Street and Performance in Mena, AR has the mounts you are talking about. Not sure which cars they will work in. Classic Camaro is working on an LS1 kit for 67-69 Camaros as well, so they may be a source. Not sure which parts they mod and which they keep.

Jegs kit is a drag racer kit. Buy a copy of Circle Track magazine and find out what is out there. I wouldn't even consider a tube from "kit" for anything other than a very common body style for drag racing.

Here are a couple of links for tools. Williams Low buck has an awesome tube shear notcher, no pesky hole saws http://www.lowbucktools.com/ JD Squared has the best bender for the $ according to my research. http://www.jd2.com/ I am going to buy both as soon as I sell my old boat. If you don't have any fab or welding experience, I would suggest starting with a different kind of project...

In my mind, the collector is the pipe where all of the primary tubes come together. The end of the collector is the point at which the tubing reduces to become the pipe. If the pipe is the same size as the "collector", it is really just a long collector! The waisted collector that is found on the Dynotech headers can skew that definition, however. Vizard explains much better than I how the expansion chamber can effectively remove the LENGTH of the exhaust pipe from the exhaust equation and how length can be effectively changed using a straight-through type muffler which is perceived as a pipe extension. He also suggests that a modified Flowmaster style muffler (ie one without baffles and an enlarged "cone" for exhaust to exit) can make a good expansion chamber. While it would be nice to fab such a trick exhaust on a Z, the only way I can envision a suitable ex chamber is ground clearance un-friendly. In that case, the best you can do is minimize the power loss by using appropriately sized tubing and flow-friendly y-pipes and mandrel bends.

For that price they should be CNC chambers and bowls blended, NOT full CNC.

I don't know, a 10% increase in peak torque and HP seems pretty significant... You may want to consider a Proform 750 cfm main body that has adjustable air bleeds to help with your fine tuning. $99.

The T5 bellhousing will not work with the 168 tooth flywheel. JTR also says the large flywheel and starter have interference problems with the chassis. You can get a scattershield from Mcleod, and probably Lakewood, that has the 15 degree rotated T5 pattern and it will clear the large flywheel, but car clearance is a different story.

With flux core wire, .035 is the norm. You need clean wire and you need a clean work piece. If this is new exhaust tubing, spray it with brake cleaner before you start welding. I tried to do some repairs on a buddies exhaust with a borrowed Lincoln 100v welder and had same problems. Acts like it just doesn' have enough power! I think if you clean the heck out of it you should have good luck, however. I finally got his done...

In David Vizard's "How to build HP, Vol One (I think...) he talks about using an expansion chamber just past the collector. This effectively takes the tailpipe out of the picture allowing you to do as you please past the expansion chamber without affecting power output due to pipe length. Flow volume a different story. It would be interesting to merge the two collectors into this expansion chamber, shape it like a triangle with the two coming in the top and a single larger pipe exiting the bottom to the rear of the car. It would have to be pretty big however and in a Z that is virtually impossible... The next best solution seems to be 2 1/2" primary pipes into the Flowmaster Y-pipe with 3" exit. Then run 3" to the diff. Here are a couple of scenarios at that point" First, get a pair of 3" mandrel bends and run into a single Dynomax 3" muffler. This is for most power in a milder motor. The second option would be to take the 3" and reduce it to 2 1/2", then use a pair of 2 1/2" mandrel bends and a single 2 1/2" Dynomax muffler. This would be for most sound control. You could still replace part of the 3" pipe with some sort of a tube muffler, but most have only a 2 1/2" core for a 3-3.5" case diameter. Dynomax does make a race muffler that has a 3" core with 4" case, but it is tough to fit.

First thing is to go about bleeding again. The 73 and up cars have a non-adjustable length pushrod, but the earlier cars have an adjustable one. Did you change the size or style of clutch? If it is properly bled but still won't work, you may have the wrong sleeve for the throwout bearing. Synchronizers are a dynamic component and won't really effect your ability to get it in or out of gear at a dead stop. As you have noted, it is a clutch dis-engagment issue.

Viscous. vis·cous (click to hear the word) (vsks) adj. 1. Having relatively high resistance to flow. 2. Viscid; sticky. Vicious is how to describe the wheelspin of a V8 Z without a LSD.

I buy lots of stuff from them, and have seen that setup in the catalog. They have an awesome all auto tools catalog. Looks like it would be virtually impossible to stab the motor onto that stand the way it is setup. Once you have the motor on the hoist, how do you get it closer to the stand? I think the separate stand/hoist combo would be better. My local Costco has a folding cherry picker and load leveler combo for $189.

I am in agreement with Tim for the most part, but if drivability and economy are both goals, I would look for a 91-92 305 TPI 5 speed car. While not as fast as the LT1 combo, it won't be as expensive, either. The whole setup can be had for about the price of just the T56 if you want a manual trans. With pocket ported heads and a cam upgrade, the 305 should have a Z car in the low 13's high 12's with 30 mpg fuel economy. Even cheaper and not as cool looking would be a TBI 305/5 speed setup which should give high 13's and compareable fuel economy. I paid $700 for a '90 305 and WC 5 speed with all accessories, wiring, and computer.. The 87 and up TPI cars have roller cams, but as a benchmark, my friend did an 86 flat tappet 305 TPI and TH700 conversion into his 3700# '74 Corvette convertible. With an SLP cam and headers, the car ran 13.97 at 101 in Baytown. Only other mod was K&N on the MAF and an Edelbrock intake base, only because the stock base was warped. This was the first TPI swap I had seen, completed in '88. The junkyard cut the harness to get it out of the car and he spliced every single wire back together. Ouch, but aftermarket harnesses were non-existent at the time.

Yes, the swap is pretty straight forward. Be aware that there are two different sets of gear ratios, commonly known as the "early" 5 speed, 77-80 and the "late" 5 speed from 81-83. The early 5 speed has a lower first gear and less overdrive than the late 5 speed. Also, I have seen different shifters in the 5 speeds (pivot point down into the tranny length variances) and the ZX uses a more straight up and down shifter than the Z.

Not in my opinion. There are two different rear rotors, the 11 3/8 rotor and a smaller one. Most likely, the smaller one is the price quoted...

I think you need to work from both ends of the crank. It seems that the BHJ custom damper that Jeffp was working on is MANDATORY for your motor at this stage. The lightened flywheel will contribute as well. While it is not a 6 cylinder, dyno research on SBC show that reducing the flywheel weight increases acceleration, while INCREASING the balancer weight/diameter ALSO increase acceleration. Probably because it is better able to contend with crankshaft harmonics putting more power to the ground. That power is used to push the car instead of self-destructing the crankshaft. Another diesel crank, the BHJ damper and the lightweight flywheel and you go even faster.

I'm in agreement with Pete, but I would do Vortecs over the SR. You will probably have to have them disassembled and guides reduced and new springs for the XS274 cam. But they are available used reasonably easily, just make sure and get the 5.7 and not the 5.0 heads. Actually, a complete 5.7 Vortec motor from the boneyard with an Edelbrock 4 barrel intake, same cylinder head mods, and an aftermarket hydraulic roller gets you lots of good parts and can probably be done COMPLETE for $1200 depending on your junkyard availability. IME, it is best not to try and build a stroker if $ is one of the major underlying factors...

I would get an old starter to use as a drill alignment fixture. You can put one bolt in, and make sure the starter drive is perpendicular to the face, then go ahead and drill to appropriate size.