Mike C

Just pop the stubs out of your factory r200 and put them in the ZX diff. I would bet the clutches will be fine. You do have to completely disassemble the diff. At least remove the carrier and ring gear. I believe the Nissan case is two piece putting it back together is easier than the solid case where you have to rotate bushings and gears into place. I'd just stick it in, then when the fund is full as you say, if it has been unsatisfactory, do new clutches with the CV shafts.

The pressure requirements for the SUs and the triples are about the same. ~ 3psi and up to 4 should be no trouble. I run a Carter 5 psi street electirc pump and an adjustable regulator on my SUs set at 3.4 psi. I plan to use same setup without a return line on my triple Del'Lortos.

It definitely has a different bolt pattern. I believe the newer motor has a longer ouput shaft so even the T5 with it's removeable bellhousing can not be swapped onto an L series T5 bellhousing.

I think the iron heads with the roller cam is a better choice. Although I agree that keeping the straight plugs really makes exhaust a LOT easier... You lose the ability to repair after an explosion, but on an overbuilt, underrevved street motor, you shouldn't have to worry about that. The iron Eagle 215 look good and so do the Pro1 in addition to the ProTopline. Admittedly the AL is a little more forgiving with compression, but IMO, the roller is the way to go. My 355 was in a 79 Z/28 that was lightened and setup for the strip, it also had a super T10 and 4.10 gears. With a Comp 292H it ran 13.7's at 102 with a 1.9 short time. I scored this in a ridiculous trade and changed the intake from the LT-1 to a Victor Jr. (which probably didn't make much difference)added 1.5 AL rockers instead of the Comp Magnum 1.5 rockers and went to the smaller 280SR. Picked up 1 second and 8 mph with the same ported GM heads shifting at the same point... and my car had big sway bars, Guldstrand road race springs, and HD shocks and pathetic 2.0 short times. I'm sold on roller tappets now even if it means iron heads instead of aluminum. I will concede that you may well be right that the flat tappet cam will approach the power of the roller in less than 280 degrees if you can get close to the same lift.

It is VERY easy to get 350hp from a 327 at 6200 rpm. Why spin it to 8000 unless you hope to get 500 hp? If money is an object (and you state that it is)just get a small journal 327, add forged flat tops along with a set of Vortec heads. Rebbuild the stock rods adding ARP bolts and have the entire assembly balanced. Add a Comp 282S solid lifter cam and you shoule EASILY get 350 horses at 6000 rpm. THis should be less than $2000 including an intake. The lightweight recip assembly and careful assembly to survive 8000 rpm will cost more than the complete buildup of the 6000 rpm motor. I have a 4 bolt main 327 in my Jimmy. Used to be in my Camaro. It is a 4 bolt 350 block, large journal 327 crank with 186 heads and TRW 4 valve relief flat tops. It has over 100k miles on it now and still runs quite well. With a Crane 284 cam, it pulled hard to 6500 rpm and ran 14.10 in my 3500# car with a 2800 rpm converter and 4.11 gears. It has a smaller cam (crane 266) now that it is in my truck, and I would bet money it would be faster in the car than it was with the big stick. Listen to the guys talk about torque, but my opinion is to maximize torque while building a rev range similar to the L motor for a Z. 1000-6000 rpm driveability.

Nice combo. My guess is the numbers you are talking about are within the error range of the dyno. Basically too close to call.

Cylinder heads in the 220cc range with 2.08/1.65 valves. With such a "large" engine and light car with a manual trans, the bigger heads will be worth more power and will be unnoticeable at lower speeds IMO. As far as camshafts, you have to go roller. If you just can't stomach the $ (hey it's only money, right? only ~ $500 more for LOTS more top end power and a broader powerband as well), then mechanical flat tappet. Otherwise it's hard to justify lightweight forged pistons and HD 6" rods for a cam that will only pull 5600 rpm in a motor of 400+ ci. With the massive amounts of gear multiplication you have, a cam in the 290 degree range advertised and 245 @ .050. This should give you a 3000-6500 rpm powerband, and if you really work on the ignition curve and carb, it will pull cleanly in 4th from 1000 rpm. This appears to be a max effort pump gas motor even if you want to call it mild... Even if you do decide a smaller cam, I would still consider mechanical valvetrain for an "occasional" driver. The Comp 282S is unbelieveably mild and will make big power. Comp told me switching from my "little" mechanical roller (280/280 236 @ .050 .540 net lift) to a compareable duration hydraulic ROLLER still would cost me 50 hp. Wow. 15 I could stomach, but 50 not gonna happen...

Sorry to hear about your loss... but I must say, not the 350's fault! Were all done by same builder? I think I would look elsewhere...

Agreed, but that explains overlap and not extending intake duration. What is the/your theory there?

I don't think so. I believe the bolt pattern is different and the clutch is larger in diameter so the large factory "groove" in the flywheel would be under the pressure plate negating any real gains.

Installation difficulties. Uses different spline stub axles. One guy found some CV shafts from a front drive AMC.

Also, I answered this same post in the Datsun L6 section. Please don't post same question in multiple boards.

Sounds like connection problems or switch. Troubleshoot your battery cables, grounds, and the ignition switch.

Not exactly sure on the Z distributor, but on a GM distributor, there is a hole in the advance plate where the springs mount. There is a pin on the shaft. This assembly turns adding advance as rpm increases. The hole limits how far the assembly can rotate on the pin. For more advance, make the hole bigger. For less, braze it up and make a new smaller hole. Should be similar on the Z distributor. This is not taking into account vac advance. It is much easier to control total advance if you don't use the vac, but do as suggested.

Street racing is NOT a good way to estimate what it does at the race track. He means that you will be passed redline in 4th gear requiring a shift to 5th, which usually is not optimum for fastest times. Also, racing in 5th is notorious for busted transmissions, regardless of the manufacturer. Turbo cars like less gear (smaller number) to help build boost. I don't know how high you turn your motor, but assuming 5500 rpm, the 3.90 are probably too much for anything above 100mph in the quarter. But that also depends on your tire height. Is the ECC the only mod to your car?

Look in either the FI or turbo section, I forget which. THere is a guy with a couple of triple manifolds. (He wanted to mod the webers to use as throttle bodies on a turbo setup) maybe he wants to sell one. I have a set of triple Del's for my car also. Hopefully they will be installed by the end of the year with the attached L28!

It is true that most forced induction cams are split duration. But they have extended EXHAUST duration. The intake is fortified with the mechanical pressure device but the exhaust needs the added duration in order to get all of the gases out of the cylinder. Overlap definitely needs to be minimized to keep the fresh intake charge from going right out the exhaust. Before I opened my yap, I did a search at Cranecams.com and EVERY blower cam I could find had more exhaust duration and the Crane cams for Datsun turbo motors also had more exhaust duration. I don't know why they are recommending cams with more intake duration than exhaust. VERY unusual...

You will hear air past the rings for the simple reason that their is a gap in each set. 165/179*100=92.178 which is ~8% which is not too bad from highest to lowest. Not enough to have a damaged valve or rings IMO, (and evidenced by your compression check) so that leaves the easiest and cheapest problem. Bad valve stem seal. Probably time to do them all.

The hoses run underneath the battery tray. No 240s had factory air they were all dealer installed. MSA sells partial kits (either the compressor kit or the other stuff) in addition to complete kits. The compressor is the newer style that mounts low on the drivers side instead of high on the pass side like the 240 dealer York setup. I am planning on just buying the MSA complete setup with barrier hoses for r134. I think it is $700. Going through your system several times before finding any and all leaks is a pain. I prefer to have all new parts upfront!

IMO, the hyper pistons lack the structural integrity and rigidity of the forged pistons. High rpm use and they will break ring lands. Strong, lightweight and cheap are like the old saying "You can have it good and fast but not cheap or fast and cheap but not good." What is your goal with this engine? If it is an ultralight weight reciprocating assembly for drag racing then the hyp pistons might survive a couple of seasons. If it is a street car you missed the boat, IMO, with the aluminum rods. BME says theirs will survive on the street, but if they don't, it's your money down the tube and not theirs. FWIW (probably not much...) the Wiseco forged pistons with rings for about $450 from Summit semm like the cheapest way to go. The Manleys are nice as well, but $600 without rings. And these are for 3.48/3.5 stroke. Expect to pay a premium for the .125 dome piston for 10.5:1 3.25" stroke. If it was my money, I'd ditch the Al rods, get a 350 to rebuild and go for the Wiseco flat tops with a set of steel 6" rods. Or just run your TRWs with a R&R set of GM rods. Is the motor you are building a big journal 327 (68-70) or small journal (62-67)? If it's a big journal you can buy new Scat 6" rods for $249.

All I swapped on my 72 was the mustache bar and the diff itself. Everything else was 72. Is your car early or late? My November 72 had some 71 type parts. 71 carbs, non-retractable seat belts for example. My current January car has 72 carbs and retractable belts. My r200 donor was a 78.

I think I kept it at .035, but you should be able to go as far as .045. But by running .035, it was a LONG time before spark degraded due to excessive gap from electrode wear. I like the Denso non resistor plugs with the U-groove groundstrap for about $1 each.

Thanks. I doubt it is just coincidence. The 3108 and 3110 numbers showed nothing when I searched, and looking under the LT1 cams, they don't have one with those lobe specs. I wonder if it is a custom LT1 grind as they don't offer it in their catalog. Come to think of it, I better check and make sure it has the hole for the waterpump drive, although it DOES have the LONG dowel. 270/284 advertised 215/224 @ .050 .500/.500 lift with 1.5 rockers and I'm guessing HR means hydraulic roller and 113 lobe seperation? I am going to pocket port the iron head LT1 I have, slap this cam in it, and drop it in the Z.

I left all of the stock wiring in place, but just moved the wires from the "out" side of the ballast resistor to the "in" side where voltage was 12v. I don't remember exactly, but follow the directions for the ignitor.

You have to put the seal on the glass first. Then use the string in the channel in the rubber, place it in the opening and use the string to pull the rubber flap into the car.