Mike C

Most blocks, if not all, have the straight across pattern. Just check to make sure by looking at your motor's starter mounting boss.

What displacement is your engine and what is the camshaft?

Usually overall strength of the spiders isn't the problem, it is the exteme speeds that they go through on single track burnouts or behind a car with lots of power and the ol' uni-track. By locking them together with the LSD, both tires spin and the spiders do not. Regardless, if you stick with a single track whether it is the r200 or a Dana 60, you're going to tear up the cross shaft and spiders unless you have some sort of locking/limited slip diff. If diff was the weak link, either case, ring and pinion, or half shafts would be exploding/imploding. FWIW, I'd score an LSD from the 87-89 turbo car or just suck it up and get an aftermarket unit setup for your car. Reider Racing says they should have them by the end of the month...

Yep, like Lone says, it's either your pump or the duty cycle on your injectors. Doesn't the 950 have data logging that will tell you fuel press and duty cycle?

I am quite pleased with the Nippondenso motored CVR starters from Jegs. Fit either the 153 or 168 tooth flywheel for about $150. They are also adjustable (clockable) for clearance purposes. I have one on both of my trucks because of hot start problems. My big block cranked and would start even after a cell failed in the batt and it had only 10.5 volts. Kinda slow though... I'll NEVER EVER EVER buy a GM starter again.

I'd also try and shim/adjust that front caliper so it is centered on the rotor.

I don't think so. They do need bolts IMO, although forced induction is WAY esier on rods than high RPM (compression vs. tension loads) The one turbo motor that DOES need rods is the Typhoon-Syclone motor. Stock they break pistons, and once you upgrade those, snap goes the rod!

All of the rear suspension bushings can deflect causing wheelhop, urethane helps a lot. Dampening on your struts is probably the culprit. Probably don't want to hear it, but the adjustable Illuminas is probably the best thing you can do to try and "tune" it out.

The Nissan motor is stout in it's stock form, but on a rebuild, especially a turbo, I'd do two things. Forged pistons and ARP rod bolts. At minimum the bolts, but pistons give you more options powerwise down the road without taking it apart again. Once again comes down to cubic $.

I have Manley ProFlos in my Camaro and run on the street with super unleaded 12k miles (see post on roller lifters) with no troubles. Ferrea is well known, but pricey, correct?

I have about 12,000 miles on my Comp lifters. I put the motor in the car in '89. They said they were oil pressure fed and would hold up. I have Crane gold rockers as well. .550 lift and Comp 950 springs (145 seat)I have B&B restrictors in the top end as well. Don't know if that was a good choice or not, but it's made the 12k! I have only run the lash probably 3 times and it seldomly needs touching so I assume the rollers are holding up...

Hurst makes a shifter called a dual gate that is a regular shifter on the right, and a detent stop inline shifter on the left. Not quite the Ferrari gate setup, but the closest off the shelf. Installed by the factory on Oldsmobiles Hurts/Olds that had auto trans.

With 2500# weight I would guess 300 would get you high 11's.

An intermediate step and a little cash, but I would have an O2 bung installed and get an AF ratio gauge and sender. That way you are not guessing at what the problem is but can identify it precisely and at what rpm so you know which circuit needs rejetting and by how much. Here is a good page for info on Weber jetting: http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/webers.htm

Crossett is right, need more info. Also, don't forget this is a message board forthe free exchange of ideas concerning Hybrid Zs and it is the users responsibility to post and read posts for info and not get personalized emails. It just defeats the whole purpose of a message board.

FYI, you can get Vortec heads for a 305 that have the smaller combustion chambers. I still stand by spending money on a motor you plan on replacing with yet another is throwing good money after bad. Just drive the 305 and spend the extra $ on your new motor.

LOL! I think the early 80's Maxima would make an awesome sleeper/driver. ESPECIALLY with ZX turbo power.

I would have a system made just for your car. I have 2 1/2" aluminized tubing and a Walker Dynomax 2 1/2" in/out turbo muffler. It is a center in offset out and it lets the installer put the outlet at the bottom and rotate the muffler slightly for max clearance. I have the stock 240 manifold and twin "down pipes" going into the 2 1/2" tube that the installer fishmouthed to get both tubes in. All welded, no clamps to rattle or drag. I've had it out of the car several times doing tranny swaps and I am really impressed with fit and function.

Thanks. I wish I could say I came up with it, but they came on my last car when I bought it. I really like them and think they have the same shape as the rest of the car and don't look dated even though they debuted the same year as the Z and its gosh awful chrome mirror. This car had those idiotic turbo mirrors when I got it and they didn't fit at the right angle and the sun had already done a number on them.

The halfshafts will be fine, but you will need the stub axles from a 76-78 R200 equipped Z as well as the mustache bar as noted.

The Rock crusher had MORE of a straigh cut than the regular Muncie, but they were still helical. Check out www.gearzone.net for their Muncie identifier and pics of the regular and rock crusher gear sets. Chances are it is just a regular ol' wide ration Muncie as they were the most common, but you never know! Like the guy with the DZ 302 in the SBC section, just because it started out that way doens't mean it still is...

You can use the diff, but not the rest of the parts. Even if you do use the center section, you will need a mustache bar from a 280 with r200. It is possible to use some of the brake parts if you fab mounts. Search on r200 and rear disc swaps and see what's been discussed before.

The T56 does use a pull off style clutch instead of the traditional push off like most cars.

Depends on what year your car is, but on a 72 or newer, the driveshaft should be fine. Get a trans from a 77-79 with the better first gear. The 80-83 have a close ratio trans, but it does have more overdrive. Check out trans a www.zhome.com

You will not find a 3" stroke crank cheap. Pistons are different as well and the only "cheap" ones are the 4 valve relief TRW forged flat tops, but they are about $350 a set now if they still make them. The 11:1 pistons are still available as the next closest at about $450. Piston pin height change is how the can use same rod and block and maintain quench and deck clearance.