Zmanco

Sorry if my reply didn't make sense ... I just realized I confused this thread with another one where I'm looking for lash pads too ... http://forums.hybrid...677#entry884677

Thanks InZane 240, I have bought lash pads from them before, but they get them from Nissan as well. I found some .230" pads yesterday so bought them. I'm taking Tony's advice and will find a shop locally who can turn them down for me. Plus, there's a chance they might just be ok as-is so will mock them up first before going any further.

Sorry, I didn't mean to challenge you on the 24 degrees advance, I was just wondering out loud. I still find that interesting though - the only difference between turbo and NA at idle I can think of is that the cam has a larger LCA (114 degrees vs. 109 IIRC). Anyway, don't mean to hijack the thread off into never never land Let us know if the 4 degrees really made the difference.

All a prop valve will do is reduce the amount of pressure to the rear brakes. From your brief description it sounds like perhaps you have air in the system somewhere, or need to bed the pads in. Adding a prop valve is a good idea, but won't solve either of those issues. FYI, there are quite a few threads here where people have experienced the same thing as you. Usually it's because of one or more of these 3 things: 1) they didn't bench bleed a new master cylinder before installing it 2) they let the MC go dry during bleeding and didn't bleed it too 3) they installed the calipers on the wrong side upside down and the nipples are at the bottom so unable to purge the trapped air.

After enough big "pops", muffler baffles can work loose. That happened with my MSA Dynomax muffler. At idle it sounded like I had bad muffler bearings...

Call Isky Racing Cams. They're out of most sizes, but still have .180" in stock, at least they did 2 weeks ago.

At idle and light throttle the PCV will pull a vacuum in the crankcase and air will enter through that nipple. It should be filtered, so if you no longer have the stock air filter, then you can put one of those small round breather filters on there.

Several of us are really trying to help you, but you're not giving us much to work with. For example, you've told us that the WG has a 17# spring which is on the high side for an untuned engine, and you also say that the boost continues to rise and rise. DOES IT RISE ABOVE 17 PSI? If you think about it, that's kind of essential to know in order to answer your question. If NO, then put a 7-8 psi spring in and tune it get a base before you damage it again. If it's going above 17, then you could have any number of issues. BTW, most ECUs for turbos have an overboost protection function that will cut fuel and/or spark when it goes above a certain level to protect the engine. I run Megasquirt, not Haltech so don't know for sure in your case, but that's one thing I'd be getting set up before I did much else. Again, we're not mind readers - we only know what you tell us - so please use a little common sense to make sure you're including the relevant things.

Tony, I wish I had access to the machine shops that you have. Here in the Denver metro area I haven't found those shops yet. If others can recommend one, please chime in. FYI, a few years ago when I wanted to lighten my flywheel I had to drive 50+ miles each way to the only shop that would turn it on a lathe. Then I had to go another 30 miles each way in the opposite direction to get it balanced. "Full Service Machine Shop" is a radical concept out here At times like these I wish I still lived in the Bay area

Ignition timing being off by 4 degrees would not cause the symptoms you have described. I think you have something else going on, although I'm at a loss to tell you what it is. You could confirm your theory by retarding the timing 4 degrees and see if the lack of power comes back. BTW, are you sure the FSM says that you should have 24 degrees of advance at idle? That seems like a lot for an emissions legal engine.

If this was my car I'd spend the money to put a 2 mm HG in. Last time I looked they were around $200. With an 8.9:1 CR, open chamber N42 head and a NA cam you're going to have to retard the timing a lot to avoid detonation which will leave a lot of power on the table. If you're paying someone to tune, do it with the engine configuration that you're going to live with for some time. FYI, you can leave the intake and exhaust manifolds attached to the head and lift it all off the block with an engine hoist. Just lift it enough to clean the coolant out of the cylinders and clean the head and block deck before reassembling. I'll guess you can get this done in 2-3 hours tops. With the parts you have and a CR in the low 8.x range, you should be able to get a good tune that is reliable, safe, and makes really good power too.

That's my understanding as well: .120" is stock. I believe some later ones had a depression machined in the bottom so that just measuring the outer thickness would result in a larger value than actual. I was speaking with Ron at Isky yesterday and he's checking if they can source some others. You are correct: his retainers have no problem with taller lash pads. But I'm trying to avoid spending more than I have to since I already have the Schneiders on the car. FYI, I did find an old post where BRAAP suggested JDM Creations for some Kamaeri lash pads. I've got an email into him to see if he can still get them. They're $10.95 each - ouch.

As someone who converted to turbo a year ago, I'll second what a few others have suggested which is to do a lot of reading to get up to speed on how a turbo engine operates. FWIW, I easily spent 40+ hours researching before I bought my first parts.... Now for a few things you may not want to read: Let me give you a few examples: So is the fact that it's welded a "feature"? Seriously, who cares that it's welded. What other kind of dual fan for a radiator is there? Are these brake lines? Perhaps clutch line or fuel line? How is this relevant to tuning the engine? Perhaps you should have told us what color the car is? And as a few others have mentioned, how can you tune to 10 psi boost with a 17 psi spring in the wastegate? The fact that you continue to repeat this nonsense tells us that you really don't understand the basics of how your engine operates. I imagine this is coming across as rather harsh. Yet the fact is that you have a really nice package of parts that many here wish they had. The key now is for you to learn enough so that you can get them all to work together and get the full benefit and keep the engine from self destructing... FYI, unless I missed it, what cam are you running? With a stock cam I'd probably agree that 550 cc injectors are larger than you need, but not so big that you couldn't still properly tune the engine. If your goals are 400 whp, then they're not too big at all. You could figure this out yourself by googling injector power calculator... http://www.nitrostre...m/injectors.htm I calculate the CR at 8.9:1 which is high for a turbo L28, but you could make it work by retarding the timing. Switch to a 2mm gasket and the CR drops to 8.1:1 which is excellent. Again, you could calculate this yourself with LEngine.exe which is available free of charge. If you can't find it, PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you. Hopefully you won't shoot the messenger here and blow up at me - you've got a lot of great parts but it sounds like you're not the type who wants to study up on things - you just want them to work. Perhaps the best thing is to follow carjway's advice and drop the car with someone who knows how to tune it. I'll bet that will save you a ton of heartache as well as money from avoiding breaking something expensive.

I'm resurrecting this old thread to see if anyone has any current sources for thicker lash pads? I need a mix of .210 and 220". Courtesy Nissan says that Nissan says they are out of stock and in the process of finding a new source but don't know when that will happen. MSA is in the same boat. I've called a few smaller shops and they all get them from Nissan. I spoke with Ron Iskandarian who reground the cam and he's checking for their source, but right now he only has .180". Any other sources to suggest? Also, I'm using Schneider retainers and want to confirm that they are tall enough to securely hold these larger lash pads. I know the stock retainers are too shallow.

Here's a thread I started with some ideas on how to best secure the turbo to the manifold. I'll suggest you get new turbo studs and distorted thread nuts. There's no point to using lock washers as the heat will soften them so that they'll be flat when you take them off. In my case with a T3/T4 hybrid I had to pull the head in order to get the wrench on the nuts, so hopefully will NOT be doing this again any time soon. For your sake I hope you don't have to go through all that.

I'm trying to imagine Yasin sitting in a rocking chair with knitting needles ... and it's not working for me!!!

So the forged rod broke? Any thoughts on why? Did something else go wrong that caused this? We usually talk about stock L engine bottom ends as being nearly indestructible yet this engine, with upgraded forged internals broke a rod? I'm curious and confused.

That looks a lot like the connector to the throttle position sensor from the 240sx that many of us use, but it would be near the throttle body, so not sure what it is on your car. Can you trace the wires?

The combustion chambers on my .080" shaved P90 with unshrouded valves measured 45.5 cc. That might help you with your CR calculations.

Now is the time to start reading the MS forum. Start with the stickies. Here's one I posted after I finished my initial install. You should also read the intro on the MS site.

How did you determine there's no spark? With ignition on, check that you have +12V at one side of the coil. With ignition off, rotate the engine so the points are closed and measure resistance to ground from the other side of the coil. It should be close to zero. Edit: it should be a few ohms since the ballast resistor is in the circuit. Let us know what you find out. One last thing, check you have the rotor installed - you'd be in good company if you left it out

I had a local muffler guy build a 3" for me using mandrel bent U pipes and it turned out well. Initially I had him build it without a muffler, but it really was too loud for me to drive home (I live in a community with very little sense of humor about noise). So I had him throw a glass pack on so i could drive it until I could order a muffler. Turned out I like the sound of the glass pack and it's not too loud or quiet. Hence I've just driven it like that for almost a year now. FYI, this is with a Schneider stage II turbo cam. My past experience is that stock cams are louder so take that into account. And to answer the original question about pipe size, I'd suggest 3" as it's a decent compromise that doesn't add too much more weight, can fit under the car without scraping too much, and gives you the option of going with a bigger turbo later and only needing to modify how the downpipe mates to it. I think you find it's hard to go over speed bumps with anything more than 3" - I just scrape lightly on most around here (springs are Tokico reds).

That's the path I took with Megasquirt and have been very happy with it. It's easier and safer to learn how to tune with it using a NA engine. Upgrading to a turbo later on just builds on that.

I don't see how you can conclude that an L24 can make 400+ HP. While I'm sure it can be done via turbo, I don't think it would qualify as reliable or friendly on the street. Many here have done that with the L28 though. I think the point others are making is that if you're going to go to the effort to build up an L engine to make 300+ HP, you may as well start with an L28 block since they're so inexpensive, even if you already have an L24. By the time you add the fuel delivery, exhaust, head, etc, the extra money to source a stock dished piston L28 will be trivial, yet it will yield 16% more power over the L24 due to the larger displacement. BTW, you should really think about the torque characteristics of the engines you're considering. A turbo L28 makes good torque above 3k rpm, but there's not a lot below 2500. Obviously a V8 with its larger displacement can make a lot of torque at lower RPM. If that matters to you, then go V8. Some people focus too much on HP when what they really want is torque.

I used this because I needed a thermostat. The adapter screws onto the nipple on the block which holds the sandwich to the machined surface. The oil filter then screws onto the adapter.