FJ 280z

azZdriver, that would be awesome man, im gonna be working on my Z this whole weekend at the shop if you wanna stop by and check it out. mario, if you are able to make it out here this weekend that would be amazing. let me know if you are able to, gonna be at my shop all weekend in tempe working on it.

so i been having a bunch of problems with my megasquirt 2 v.3.57. originally, i thought there was no spark because i corrupted the firmware, so i reflashed the firmware to the latest version i could find, the 3.1.0 MSII extra code, and since then, my ECU has been unable to connect with any laptops. i really don't know whats going on, but if there are any megasquirt experts in the phoenix area can help me out get everything figured out, setup and running i will gladly pay you for your time. thanks...tano.

so i have a guy i believe is my friend at a local tuning shop here in arizona. recently, my brother and i made a custom tubular turbo manifold for my fj20. we made the flange, and purchased an obx collector, the tubing was a 1.75" mild steel tubing i purchased at a local exhaust company. they were 180* bends, i don't remember the thickness of the pipe, but my brother being a welder said it should work. we made a pretty nice piece. it was all tig welded together. anyways, back to the tuning guy, i dropped it off to him to get decked and ceramic coated as i thought i was gonna get a good deal. he calls me this morning and says something along the lines of "oh, my fabricator guy saw it, he's worried that you made it out of mild steel, its to thin, its gonna crack all over the place, with the vibration and weight from a turbo, the coatings not gonna work for it it will only make the metal hotter and it won't last." anyways, he's wanting to make me one out of stainless, blah blah $2000 custom piece saying it will work better. am i getting bs'd here? will this manifold that i built out of exhaust mild tubing and tig welded together and jet hot coated just break apart or crack? i spent some good money on the pieces for the manifold and believe in my brothers welding, its a really nice piece as you can see in the pics. but what do you guys think? are they trying to sucker me to buy one of thier manifolds? plus, i was quoted 100 bucks for the coating, and he's saying 150 to 175. im just trying to get some hybridz members opinions so i can figure out what to do here i'd hate to have to buy new ss tubing and remake this whole thing if these guys are for real. i'm hoping someone would tell me thier full of bs and i'll take my stuff and go elsewhere.

piston, i'd love to fit those on. heres a pic of me testing them out, should work with 35 series tires, some zg flares and a little body work...

heres a pic of some g35 rims i test fitted on my stock suspension 280z...

the seller said 1" diameter bars.

a guy is selling them locally, and he says they were taken off a 76 280z. i have a 77 280z, i've only installed suspension techniques sway bars on friends cars before, and i know they look nothing like the ones in the pic. the sway bars in front of the pic (closest to camera) seem like they might not be for a 280z. can anyone identify these sway bars and confirm they will fit on a 77 280z. thanks for your help guys!

I am using a EZ wire 21 circuit harness in my 77 280z. i have an FJ20 engine which uses the hitachi 23100-r2000 internally regulated alternator similar to the 280zx turbo. my question is, i have a wire from the harness that says alternator excite wire, and im unsure where to connect that to. the hitachi alternator has the S and L connections for signal and i forgot what the L stands for, and after doing some research i ran across this diagram that kinda made some sense as to how to hook up an alternator. (i understand this is for a GM but im guessing its similar) they are pretty much suggesting hooking up the L to the positive terminal on the coil, and then connecting the S or signal to the battery post, with a large gauge wire connecting to the starter solenoid, which is then connected to the positive terminal on the battery. my question is: 1. where does the "alt excite" wire on the harness connect in all of this? (would that be hooked up to L with the diode suggested) and 2. i should still hook up the E terminal, which is ground, to a ground on the vehicle correct? and should i leave that small diode or resistor looking thing on the E terminal? thanks for your help!

as the title states, i have a 77 280z coupe and i am looking for the following new/used performance suspension parts. eibach or similar lowering springs front and rear sway bar kits suspension bushing kit (poly/red preferred) if anyone is a dealer or has these parts laying around, i'd love to buy them off you. im looking at $600 for these titems shipped from MSA with thier holiday sale. can anyone beat that? please hook it up i am on a budget. thanks! email me for faster response. tanolizama@hotmail.com thank you!

yes, can you post a link or diagram

thats a great idea, i got a couple spare throttlebodies laying around i can dissect, i was almost gonna order an arm through weber mfg, but that sounds like a more logical, hybridz solution. thanks everyone for your input...

im converting my l28e to sidedrafts, i've read what some of the people done for the throttle linkage has been to use junkyard throttle cables or the lokar universal throttle cable kit. i feel like im gonna go the lokar route, however, my question is, what length of cable, for those who have gone this route, should i use? do i get the 24" or is that too short? would the 36" be better? i know how i want to mount the cable, i just need to know the length so i can order it tonight and hopefully be on the road by this weekend! thanks

i got a brand new HKS still in the bag. i believe its the standard 40mm 4 bolt square flange. i'll let it go for 300 obo. located in arizona

im in tempe near the 101 and 202 (kinda, apache and mcclintock) i just did a whole polyurethane suspension/toyota brakes/braided lines/sway bars on a 280z. im usually here on the weekends working on my z or my buddies. if you need a hand i got 2 lifts...

One day, in a racetrack far, far away, I raced a datsun. With my Datsun. Someone took a picture of it. Last I heard, that picture was on the Internets. The End.

this is where a large 1/2" impact gun comes in handy...

sweet, another 4 banger mid-engine swap. your lucky, at least your exhaust is on the passenger side, no need to modify the steering shaft!

did they just lay carbon fiber over the body or did they make the entire body out of cf? what a bunch of money and what a task if thats what happened. anyone recognize what engine that is? hyabusa or R1 or gsxr? and is it have a chain driven diff or something? pretty amazing!!!

i forgot to mention one of the most important part in making a high hp N/A motor, the cams. im sure that 400hp rb30de has some huge cams, i bet thier custom, and i bet thier ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ EXPENSIVE! and thats just a part of the cost, not including that mystery manifold for running sidedrafts. the headers!!! custom headers for an RB motor into a Z (who knows if the skyline headers, if you can find em, will even fit in a Z) from a good place like say full-race or something, would be over 1,000 bucks as well. i guess i can say im a little biased against n/a. i built the ♥♥♥♥ out of a z24 engine before, mikuni 44s (sounded SWEET with the cam), webb 292 cam, alot of headwork, alot of block work, big exhuast, lightened the 720 body, too much nitrous, just to get SMOKED by these turbo honda punks who bought, not built, thier ride, so i said f**k that, im going turbo, and thats why im building my fj20det (ya i know) in my Z. im tired of farting around.... thats my rant, later kids..

400HP efi, fuel injected, okay, lets toss that out the window... rb31de carb'd? okay, maybe you put the E on accidentally, but the E stands for EFI, so how can it be a carb'd EFI engine? im guessing that was a mistake and its cool we all make em. anyways, those are both rb30 motors, the largest of the rb series (as far as i know) and one of them is punched up (not by much) to a 3.1 but even still, there has to be some major work done to those because the rb30's are single cams, and they have to have a dohc head fitted on first, unless you find the super rare rb30de from the kaira m30 aka r31 gts-r. even still, the rb30de came with only 237hp, so alot of work would have to be done for that additional 100hp. where the rb25de has around 188hp even more work would have to be done to get it in the 250 or so range where it would be really fun....

i know he didn't mention the GT-R engine, im just asking he just not use THAT engine. if you read my post, i mentioned he could use a RB20, 25 or even 30. also, if you read his post, he never said anything about "classes" or restrictions, so i think he just wants a fun car powered by an RB with mikuni's which is FINE in my opinion... i just can't see why, if someone doesn't have to adhere to a racing class or restrictions, the would take a RB26DETT, strip the turbos and ITB's off it, spend a bunch of money raising compression, porting and polishing for N/A power and then throwing carbs on it, and thinking it would be somewhat better or funner than the stock rb26dett? even with higher compression, race gas, a super expensive port job with larger backcut valves, 50mm carbs, and all the other N/A tricks, i doubt the power would come even CLOSE to the stock output, or a stock block with boost raised a psi or two...nitrous might help making it a little more fun, but theres just more money spent for forged pistons, a decent nitrous setup, etc... also, who here knows where to find a sidedraft manifold for an rb26? with linkage? with everything you need for it to work? theres even MORE money buying the only one of 3 maybe made in japan, or having one custom made....its just a money pit, and he's a "skaterkid" not "millionairekid" so i don't think moneys not an option on this one.

sure, i'd love too, because you would LOSE POWER. your taking the holy ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ grail of the nissan engine lineup, stripping everything that makes it holy (twin turbos) and slapping on some 60's and 70's technology, lowering the power output, screwing up the tuning (do you really think you can get EVERY cylinder tuned correctly on 3 sidedraft carbs? probalby close, but not perfect, not a problem on a single cam 12 valve L series motor, but an RB!). the engine costs like 4-5k complete if your lucky, and your gonna put CARBS! c'mon. i can see this with an RB20 or 30, but not the GTR motor, please not the GTR motor. its like buying a ferrari and slapping a pinto motor in it. i understand this is hybridz, and we support odd ideas, but mikuni's on a rb26 is sacreligious.

by side draft do you mean side draft carbs? personally, i think its not a good idea because your going from fuel injection which is good, to carbs, which isn't so good as far as tuning. if you want to do ITB's on a RB, now that would be awesome. its just that there is alot of work because if you start with a turbo RB, you have to raise compression because RB's have low compression for N/A setups. also, who the HELL would want to put carbs on a RB26? i hope you wanna do a RB20 or 25 or even 30, not the RB26DETT. please don't carb that thing...lol... so i guess what you want to do is find a N/A RB20(cheap on ebay) and see if a GTR intake manifold would fit(they have ITB's) and find some bigger ITB's to put on it, then figure out what your doing for tuning...hope that gives you some direction...

hey, just so you guys know, those are some super rare, highly JDM flares used on the super JTGCTCR-TYPE-R specII fairlady skyline....those flares are a work of art and a piece of history, i just put in a bid for 2,000. i hope the guy accepts my low ball offer, you're all gonna be super envious when i slap those on my Z and hit 180 on a straight while drifting..... newbs....lol

that is a really sweet ride. deserves the 10k+ he's getting for it. the interior is really nice, engine bay really clean, and that front end, really unique! almost looks like a ferrari front end...like a modena 360 or something. clean car!