1 tuff z

Finally got around to installing the tow hooks that I purchased from Brian at Z Car Customs along with my new rear spoiler. The rear was pretty simple, remove bumper bracket bolts, slide in tow hook, install bolts. Front was a bit more involved. I have a 73z with the later / bigger / bulkier bumper brackets. Anyway was trying to determine how I'd install the front hook and couldn't really fit it in the place where the earlier [70-72] brackets fit so, I Hybridized it! Long time ago I had removed the small pipe tube looking thing that runs transversely at the front of the brackets and when doing so the brackets wanted to split apart. Used this 'split' to insert the tow hook between them. Took a few minutes to drill the holes but it works wonderfully. Pics... Hooks Rear Front-top [sandwiched] view Front-side view

Not the originals but a nice aftermarket alloy if I'm correct. I have seen them before-any markings on the back side [size, manufacturer, etc]? I also believe that they will polish nicely, add a center cap and you've got a great looking set of wheels.

i have a pair of new chrome/stainless nissan fender mirrors in boxes i'd part with as well a a stock s30 valve cover, pm me if interested.

How many groove is yours, 2 or 3? I have a 2 groove I could part with, painted black, nice shape $45 shipped.

Evan, welcome to the dark side-HybridZ! Another fellow upstate NY'r on hybrid!

Blake, thanks for the kind words and follow up. Josey & I did this for the simple reason to get long tubes in our LSx Z's! Yes, they are tight but do certainly fit. The other aspect to consider is we're dealing with hundreds of thousands of Z's from 1970-1978 and there are some slight body variances over that 9 year period which may require some tweaking for each of our Z's. I can't wait to finish the install, get the downstream exhaust completed and on the dyno to see what she'll put down now. I also want to hear the difference between the old shorties [open] and the new LT's [open] before the exhaust is fabbed-hopefully I can capture some video and post here.

With helpers like that it's a wonder that most of us do our Z work solo!

Have an incomplete set of 3 "D" wheel covers and am looking for a 4th to complete the set. What I have are about a 7/10 condition so don't need anything too pretty. Let me know if you have 1, condition and how much. Thanks, David Have funds in my PP acct ready.

Friend of mine picked up these ultra rare magnesium Z rally car wheels awhile back. Pretty cool and super light. Not posting to drive you to the auction but wanted to post more so someone who has not seen these wheels before can do so. link

Thanks for the compliment. It is my goal that once complete I will 'edit' the install instructions with pics and upload them to the thread as well as communicate with Blake the changes/steps/etc. I want the exhaust to run between the body and tranny-providing the best ground clearance. I believe that if the collector [right side] is not altered it will not provide what [at least for me] what is optimum...

I wish, looked a couple months ago but both my kids want to go as well, making the trip very expensive. Just can't justify selfishly going on my own...

I usually search s30 or s30z and have purchased a few items. My brother is currently stationed in Yokosuka and my sister-in-law has helped me do this in the past. Her connection has moved and I now have moved to using Japamart...wish he was staying there a couple more years so I could visit!

I will be updating the install instructions with some input of my own install then uploading when complete. Left [driver] side is in and they are tight! I will say it has taken me about 4 hours total to get the left side in-not because I'm completely incompetent but wanted to do the job right. At this point I do not anticipate needing to remove any material from the t/c bucket and the collector does not touch the body. The header is about 3/16" from the steering rod-very close. The 'rub' marks you see on the header & steering rod are from when the header was not yet bolted in. Removed the johns' cars mount and had Jimmy Z [he makes the billet parts sold on Hybridz] put the mount on the mill for a few mods. First was to 'slot' the single/top hole on the mount that is sandwiched between the crossmember & framerail to allow easier alignment for that bolt. Next, enlarge +1 size the engine mount bolt [long one] holes for easier alignment-worked great. Remove the guesstimated material from the rear of the mount [see pic] for header clearance. Where my finger is pointing is about as far as needed to remove-any more material removed toward the upright part of the mount is not really necessary. More later... Left side install complete! So, I just couldn't stay away and figured on trying the right/passenger side. Pulled the starter completely [figured the header would be in/out at least twice so wanted to make it a bit simpler]. Installed the header to determine how much t/c bucket trimming was needed. Broke out the cut off wheel and trimmed that piece-done. Next hurdle-the header bisects the floor as it point to the rear of the car, instead of paralleling the tranny [see pic] and needs to be shortened or turned or both. Looks to be about 15 degrees of ''bend" needed. Will work on that next, done for today. You are welcome sir! From the beginning I had hoped for long tubes that met all our criteria-we are nearly 100%!