1 tuff z

My shirts arrived today, with the wait - huge thanks to Ryan for tackling this big job that benefits all of us and HybridZ! It was difficult to choose amongst all of the colors but very happy with my choices!

1 each: Lg Heather Cool Blue & Lg Light Olive T-shirt shipped to 14617 Thanks, David

Mark, are you going to make it ZCON this year? Love to see your Z run at Barber!

Hey Mark, I'll be at ZCON and after all these years I finally get to see your Z in person! Look for me in the airport rental car, perhaps it'll make it on the track at HPR & PPIR...

My brain hurts after reading and, attempting to digest this all. Great work!

Gorgeous!

Looking good Alain, keep us updated and looking forward to seeing your Z hit the road!

Jon, there's a Fairlady ownwers group on Facebook, here's the link. Great project and really like the wheels - do you have any info on them?

Been following for years and anxiously awaiting the finale - absolutely love it, congrats!

Chris, I'm still in for a set as they'll look great on my 72 Fairlady Z once the restoration is completed!

Keith, If I remember correctly our rear spoilers are very similar. Purchased mine from Brian K. . Link to his website: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/pd2155023/ZCC__ZG_R__REAR_SPOILER_

Try U-Line for boxes. For the Fairlady reproduction grill I found a box to fit nearly perfect and, when purchased in modest quantity were much less expensive than I thought and more convenient that making the box from a sheet of cardboard.

Alain, Wizard Cooling in Buffalo? If so I had Scott [owner] build the rad for my LS swap 10 years ago [had to bring him an old Z rad for the mounting dimensions] and it's been great. He asked how I would drive it and expected horsepower and added a few tweaks at my request. I must say the rad is very well build and don't anticipate replacement, ever...

Don't remember the paint brand but looked and it's from primer, that rust colored variety. I don't recall gluing or otherwise and tried to remove it but not coming off easily.

Andy, ironic we discovered the same thing albeit a few years apart. I needed to cap my heater box when putting the boost gauge in the left eyeball vent and found a spray can cap fit perfectly, been there ever since the early 90's!

Hoping someone will make them, they'll look great on my 72 Fairlady Z!

Andy, I believe [referring to the rear trim panels] that is what's called "lack of attention to detail"...

I have a pair, bare metal, louvered, ready to paint. Email me: palermodavid13@gmail.com

Odd, I can't get the video to play.

I too have the Skillard splitter and working on fitting it to my 73. I've been in contact with Ben for awhile providing feedback [as I believe he wasn't initially aware of the 240-260-280 differences] and to make it more challenging I have a Kaminari air dam which is deeper and wider. Instead of purchasing longer bolts to reach the radiator lower support holes I'm going to make some stand off brackets which should provide greater stability, strength and ease of mounting [found the long bolts were not so easy to thread in]. Some modification to the turnbuckle locations and the splitter isn't quite wide enough for the Kaminari so Ben has agreed to make me some 'extensions' which I'll either bolt or weld on - haven't decided yet. Anyway, ChumpCar racing, my 72 Fairlady Z restoration, work, family, vacation and HPDE's all seem to be taking time away from the splitter...

Same for me, been that way for months

Keith, I have the same spoiler, in fiberglass. Mine had to be clearanced on both sides to avoid quarter panel contact. Instead of sealer I used a dense foam tape [like what is used to seal a truck cap to the bed] along the front and back edge, leaving a gap for the water to drain at the low point where the lock is. I then purchased some large diameter washers as my backing plates. A bit challenging to hold the washer in place and get the nut started but got it done. I've noticed greater straight line stability at Watkins Glen but I only see a bit over 145 there, not the speeds that you'll experience.

Looking good Keith!

Just pulled my Fairlady out of winter hibernation. This past winter I mated a 100k mile L28 stock block to an E31 head with mild port & polish work, new valve guides, 280z valves & an Isky 290/490 regrind cam. Triple 45 DCOE 152 [spain] Webers that are pretty new [from Evilc] and a header/exhaust from Sean Dezart in France. I welded in a bung for a wide band O2 sensor but haven't plumbed the gauge yet. specs for my triples 145 Mains 155 air correction 36 chokes F16 emulsion tubes 45 accelerator pump jets 55F8 idle jets 4.50 auxillary venturis Today while checking the above specs [hope I have ID'd correctly] I checked the idle mixture adjustment screws. From L>R they were; 2.5, 2.25, 2.75, 2.75, 2.25, 2.25 turns out. I only have a few miles on it but looking at the header coloring i have more blue in the middle cylinders than outboard. Think that's lean? When idling it sounds like it slightly missing [new plugs], pops when cruising along and pops under deceleration. It really pulls nicely and sounds awesome under mid to full throttle, once it climbs above 3k rpm's. My timing light is broken so I'm unable to check that and until I finish the wide band info is lacking. Currently it prefers rapid but not stomp on it throttle input and if I provide too little input begins to die. Ahh, the fun of sorting it all!

Looked at my receipt again, they're LS7 lifters/guides [edited my post too], thanks for the reminder.