1 tuff z

i have been having a problem when the car is cold. once it is started and begins to come up to temp-the gauge continues past 180 and goes to around 210 before settling back to 180. it doesn't do it all the time and usually just when the car is completely cold. i have done the following to troubleshoot; replaced the t-stat [twice], ensured that i don't have air in the system [letting come up to temp-once antifeeze starts to circulate, then top off]. i have also run w/o the t-stat [temp seems to stabilize around 145-150, and don't experience the problem. i don't want to damage the head by seeing this temp spike each time i drive. does anyone run w/o a t-stat? if i do this, any problems? also, i run a 4 row rad, oil cooler and elec. fan, L28, p90 head, jcr supercharger setup. any help/feedback would be greatly appreciated! thanks...

there are jointed ends-at the strut towers. they appear to be for removal only. material looks like chromoly [sp?]. looking at the points [4] where it attaches to the firewall, i'm curious as to what support he put behind those mounting points-or if it would be necessary? anyone?

there's a place here in rochester that does wheels [that are prepped=bead/sandblasted] for $50/wheel any color u want. the wheels are then heated for approx. 20 min at 400-425 degrees. i just had a valve cover done, it looks great!

i still haven't had a chance to really put the pg thru the wringer yet. the guy at atkins rotary [they bought out camden superchargers-the place that built the jcr supercharger kit] shipped me the wrong boost pulley, almost toasted my motor-too much boost. once i have the new pulley and have the car in some semblence of tune, i'll start with the posts. there's also an auto-x coming up on 5/26, that will be the real test for me.

i have the pg lsd in my z now [r-200, 3.9]. just put it in last week, unfortunately haven't been able to put it to the test yet... install was pretty simple, remove diff, remove stub axles & cover. remove bolts & brackets which hold bearings/ends of "carrier/spider gears. punch out roll pin which holds [approx] 5/8" pin thru center of carrier and remove the pin. insert pg between spiders, reinstall pin. i believe they have tools which [once compressed] hold the pg together for install, i made my own. then reassemble, using ls additive in the diff lube. i'll post more once i've logged some driving time.

terry, the list price is $349, they do offer group buys though as well as racer net.

just received my phantom grip lsd. it installed w/o too much difficulty and looks as though it will do the trick. still waiting for my radiator to be finished and i'll then have the z back on the road again-can't wait. once i have put some power to the phantom, i'll post again my thoughts. ps-i ordered the same application they list for the 240sx r-200. no problem with the fit.

danno, i called john at phantom and he has a unit for the 240sx r200. i then called nismo and now understand that the difference in the r200's b/w the z's and the 240sx is the pinion length. the rest of the guts are the same. i then sent phantom my guts from my r200, he measured and said it was the same. my phantom is on the way and should b in the car by end of april [once the snow is completely gone, i'll road test it].

i just ordered the phantom grip lsd and should have it in the car by the end of april [assuming we have no more snow]. i'll then post my feedback on it [for the r200].

i agree w/terry, got the tool and went right out to the garage to check it out. nice-n-ez! i also took it to a swap meet we had last week and everyone wanted to know where i got it. great tool...

wow. i wuz checking your dimer, very nice indeed. u must suprise other cars very often with that motor combo. i like!

i had the opportunity to speak w/john at phantomgrip numerous times over the past few weeks. based on our discussion as well as the 100000+testing both in drag, auto-x and road racing it appears to be a great bang for the buck. i will be getting one within a few weeks which i will then put through the wringer. i'll post my thoughts as i "beat on it trying to break it"

ryan, r u looking for steel or fiberglass replacements? also, where in fl are u?

try this link, it's a gear ratio/tranny/rpm, etc. calculator. http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/

i have the same 6/2 msa header and did the following to increase ground clearance and ease removal. shortened the 2 secondary pipes on the header by approx. 2", shortened the 2 pipes on the "collector" by approx. 2" and then had them enlarged to slip over the header secondaries, welded them together. then cut off the collector just after the 2/1 joint and added a header [u can use a 2 or 3 bolt flange] flange, added the same to the exhaust that mates to it. i now have the pipes neatly tucked up [look at any z that has this header and u'll notice the header hangs down about 3-4" below the frame rails-not good on a lowered z], and the header/exhaust is easy to unbolt as well.

sorry, i listed the incorrect website. correct one is; www.macperformance.com/ & click on download 2001 catalog to see specs & prices, etc.

check out this muffler. they guarantee to outflow dynomx 17734 [app for z's] and flowmstr 42553. t-304 16gauge stainless, lifetime warranty and inexpensive as well [no i don't work 4 them]. anyone else used this brand? www.macmidwest.com

try; http://www.webercarburators.com/ the website for pierce manifolds-largest supplier of weber parts, carbs.

back in december there was a posting where someone was selling a puller for the rear lower control arm bolt. i did a search and couldn't find anything. anyone know the person??

i believe i found these diff ratio numbers on bryan little's site a couple of years ago...the first number is stamped on the ring gear. ring = ratio 39:11 = 3.54 37:10 = 3.70 39:10 = 3.90 37:9 = 4.11

i found an r180 4.11 diff to swap into my 240z, but it has no stub axles in it [they are the pop-out kind], my existing r180 has the bolt-in stubs. anyone know where i can source the proper stubs to snap into the new diff and that will bolt/mate up to my existing 240z half-shafts? thanks...

does anyone have any insight as to the best system for my z? i have; f54 block, p90 head w/isky cam, msa header, jcr supercharger setup. i am considering either 2.5 or 3" from the header back. i don't know if the 3" would provide too little back pressure or not. david

has anyone considered the swap of the qx4 front diff to a z? i once read that the nissan had adapted the driveline from the skyline for the qx4. does this mean that the front diff is an lsd, if so-would it then be a potential donor source?

instead of the rx7 diff, what about the supra diff? i know zexel/torsen makes an lsd for it.

i was looking at a friends '99 altima se the other day and began wondering if; 4 lug bolt pattern is the same, if so-would those brakes fit on a 240? it has 4 wheel discs and look to be a pretty decent size. anyone looked at this as a possible conversion before?? david