1 tuff z

terry, check out ross' site-he's making upgraded stubs now. http://www.modern-motorsports.com

i broke my driver side stub a few years back. didn't realize it until i heard this rattling when i removed the strut to do my coilovers. i've since upgraded to 280z stubs-did that when i installed my rear disc's & cv halfshafts.

dale, when you stated that the o2 sensors should be angled to avoid moisture...which way? so that when i do get my headers and have the bungs welded in that i get it right the 1st time!? thanks...don't know if i'd have ever attemted this swap without my hybrid!!!

mike, i'm with u on the wife happy thing. she's content that my mistress is in the garage-my z of course! got the 01 trans am ws6 nearly stripped clean and parts sold off-now time to use that cash to purchase the swap parts. i see that jtr has the 1.75" sanderson headers that i can use, now i need to determine whether to; make my own mounts, use john's cars or see if jtr will be making them or perhaps [since i'm not a fabricator] i could persuade/bribe/pay one of my fellow hybridr's to fab me up a set of eng/tranny mounts. i'm also thinking about upgrading the gauges as well. i'm planning on september this year to pull the jcr blower/L28et powerplant and rolling out in spring 06 with 150+ extra hp to play with! david

david, i haven't driven an ls1 z yet...but did drive 2 different trans am ram air ws6's. one had the stock 3.42 diff, the other a 4.11. i was very suprised the 4.11 ta still had a very streetable 1st gear. i'm going to start out using my existing r200 3.9 nismo lsd and see how that feels. if necessary, i'll swap to a 3.54 [fortunately i have one of those as well] since the 3.36 r200 is a very rare diff. i believe it came only in the 79 2+2 zx 4spd manual cars. pig in a poke... david

the supra diff's don't have a gleason-torsen lsd, but the company that spun-off, zexel-torsen does carry a unit for the supra. i went by there about 2 years ago to see if they might still have an old r200 unit kicking around...no luck. they would have been happy, however, to make me a run of them if i put up the cash to purchase 500 units...i passed. david

dan, now i can see the photo upload again. don't know what you did...but cool.

super dan, i'm guessing that you already know these but thougth i'd pass 'em along anyway. doesn't appear to be a way/link to get from the album section to forums. second-can't find anywhere a way to post images in the album section anymore. was able to post a few the first day then...nothing. third-loved the scrolling 'new posts' for the forum section, will u b adding that back??!?! as always, thanks for hosting this place for me to regroup. figured my donation is a lot less than going to see a shrink!

mike, i have your's up front and dave's arizona z's in the rear. what a difference when i got to the track last year and even better this year after i had someone who actually knew what they were doing re-do the alignment!

thanks...

thanks for the info, still getting used to the search function here. relieved to hear the compression is ok, so i'm guessing my oil consumption is related to the turbo. guess i'll pull that soon and look to have it rebuilt.

i did a few searches but couldn't find any info on compression testing acceptable or 'normal' ranges for a factory turbo engine. i'm experiencing oil buring while under moderate to full boost but nothing visible under idle or normal driving. i did a compression test; cold engine, from front to rear of engine here are the numbers; 1-151, 2-150, 3-152, 4-149, 5-150, 6-151. all 6 plugs are somewhat black and a bit sooty. the car is an 83 zxt 2+2, k & n filter, 3" [no cat] exhaust, otherwise stock. the chiltons manual says normal is 171, and states that highest to lowest numbers should be within 80% of each other [which they definitely are] but doesn't differentiate between non and turbo. i didn't know if there would be a difference. i'm also feel surging of the turbo [best way i can describe it, cause it doesn't feel like my friends stock turbo which seemed to spool/pull more smoothly] and am suspect that maybe the turbo needs rebuilding. so, with that said any ideas or imput would be helpful. thanks...

thanks for the heads up!

the computer itself doesn't have any signs of [external] physical damage. but i have no way of knowing if the impact could have done internal damage? again, it's my ignorance and unfamiliarity with a computer/obd II car.

hey all, my donor car [01 trans am ws6, 6spd, 20,044 mi, wrecked] arrived last week. the car was hit in the right front-bumper cover, r fender and hood gone, beefy bar behind bumper cover, radiator, etc. all untouched. some suspension and steering rack damage and pushed the right front support back, appears to have pinned the computer in and severed many wires going into it. computer was pulled out and wires twisted together when i got it. in my driveway we charged the battery, i soldered all the 'severed' wires to the computer [previous owner has just twisted together the wires, no solder and small pieces of electrical tape] checked oil, etc and other electrical connections and fired it up. ram air box was damaged in crash so there's no air filter in front of the maf sensor. it runs like crap-initially blowing bits of catalitic converter from the tailpipes, running rich, barely idles. blipping the throttle, it seems to clear it's throat somewhat but still very rich. no tachometer, although it does, along with the speedo [just after startup] go from 0 to full and back to 0 then nothing. good oil pressure and volts. friend has a handheld programmer/diagnostic he uses for his '02 fbody formula, hooked it up and it wouldn't read the computer-only thing it did was state 'is ign on'. my goal is to get it running ok and ensure there are no errant problems prior to pulling the engine trans. this is my first venture into a v8 or non datsun car in 20 years, so i'm humbly asking for some help. can i remove the ecu to test it? is there something different that i should be doing?

there's no question in my mind-go with the stick. i agree that a co-ed or auto tranny [sorry, i couldn't resist a little ribbing there] will be better for stop-n-go traffic or for most drivers in the 1/4, but my car lives in neither of those. in fact, we have 4 cars and none have the co-ed trans-all are sticks. my 2 centz-fwiw

74 5.0 z, love to see more pics of your adaptor plate and boosterless system. i also agree with john c. after more than 100 auto-x and track events i've learned to use my right foot as the modulator and it seems to work pretty well. used vacuum boosters are relatively inexpensive and aren't prone to frequent failure. i currently run dual tilton masters, similar to what john c stated, with a 6.2:1 pedal ratio. effort is higher than normal on the street but nice for the track. i'm running ross corrigan's big brakes-vented 13's front and the 240sx caliper/solid 280zx rotor rear. i went to upgrade the master to a 280zx model and it wouldn't clear the supercharger, so i found the tilton setup from a racer who was moving from [if i remember correctly] gt2 to gt3. got the masters & modded pedal box. i think when the ls1 goes in the tiltons will come out and the stock booster with 280zx master will be installed. my 2 centzzzzzz

awesome pics racer x! love 'em!! both the 006 & 008 cars reside here in upstate ny [rochester]. dr. allan robbins has the 006 as u stated and dr. tom bork owns & races 008. i'm working on getting them both to track day at wgi [watkins glen intl] to turn some "exhibition laps" for during the 2005 intl z convention here in ny next august. we won't have a firm track date until wgi releases the dates early december this year. i'm fortunate to be track day co-chair along with my good friend chris holmes from the albany z club-zany. our 3 ny clubs, zany, zacny [syracuse] and zccr [rochester] are co-hosting the convention. doc sidewayz, love to have you bring your z up to do some hot lappin at wgi. david palermo prez-zccr http://www.zccr.net

peej, how did you attach to the rear strut towers? did you add any reinforcement to the tower itself? same question for the main hoop attachment points. thanks...

as the county sheriff approached the car he said in a deep southern drawl "tha don soun like no 300z i ever heard b4, whatch u got in that-boy?

matgnz, those jam nutz are there from the factory. first time i changed rack bushings i stripped the bolts because i didn't expect to have the jam nutz there...lesson learned. dan, i agree with other posts that the most difficult part of the swap was wrestling the rack bushings over the rack, swearing they sent the wrong ones. the biggest plus i've seen on my car was when i put mike kelly's front adjustables on and changed the caster some-better/quicker in turn-in response and...lighter effort even with the tires i run-235/40/17. david ps-where can i view pics of your z now that it's finished, the only pics i've been able to find are some in progress at eric's site.

holy s*&@t. i love the wisps of smoke coming off the pavement at the very end. your z with that driveline combo will be awesome! so, did u stop just shy of blowing the tires!?!?

bill, i still carry the 14" spare-barely fits over mml's rear brake setup [240sx caliper]. if i have a spare on the front it's time for the old swaperoo, or just call AAA...

quick 510, get your tank yet? still looking for mine. david