Careless

you got PM.

That's awesome, how much does such a thing cost? It's mild-steel, I take it? It would weld fine to the standard pan? And it looks like it has the trap doors and all that. I could probably use that for my custom sump/crossmember. Thanks for posting it. Raff

Diablo 6.0 headlights. HAHAHA, go on ebay and list your Z32 headlights as Diablo Headlights!

what's the moroso pan from!? i dont think I wanna pay 300 for a pan flange though. I need the files so that I can add the crank scraper holders, and then bolt teflon foam sheet to those. I think I can get at least two made no my own for that price. I have a friend that does CAD that I might hire. Thanks for the link Matt. I'm sure someone will hop on those flanges if they really need em

if he means the small end bronze bushing... then what type of rod are you using? Isn't there already a bronze or brass press-fit bushing at the small end? here is what a rod with a press-fit bushing looks like (click to see full size) if a machinist is recommending the modification, he should be capable of finding a suitable bushing that he can use by over-sizing the small end by 2 or 3 mm, and interference fitting a new bushing like the picture above (except that one was press fit before final flat face grinding. He should then be able to bore the inside diameter back into spec. It kinda sounds like he's trying to make it seem harder to find than a regular bushing.

And Fidanza makes a 11.5lbs flywheel for your application, I'm sure. P/N 43301 . I just bought it but do your research. It's cheaper than a kaemari. You can also take a look at JGY Customs. Take a look at SPEC's website and do some part number checks. If the 83 ZXT and the 87 Turbo or 85 Turbo flywheels are all the same, then just buy one from an 85 Turbo, which would be 240mm. The FS5R90A was a T5 transmission as well. Listen to your father. There is no "need" for a flywheel assembly weight. Have the unit balanced when your rotating assembly is balanced, and it will be good. being a 3 litre, I've been told the 11lbs flywheel should be easy to drive because of torque, and you're making a stroker here = more umph. But really, I'd wager that 15lbs is a good spot. Not too light, not too heavy.

josh, there is no need to run a certain weight flywheel. I'd say 15 lbs is right where your engine should be. 10 lbs is compromsing the rigidity of the flywheel and also requires new fasteners because i'd imagine there is a lot of material removed and the bolts might bottom out or torque improperly. I took my clutch off my 300zx Turbo 2 weeks ago and noticed fine hairline cracks in the face of the flywheel that FOR SURE expand when it's hot. And I found unusual heat marks on the spring hub of the clutch. I think a couple more hard shifts (if it went into gear at all), and it would have sent a 6000 RPM 24lbs Circular Saw blade straight through my bell housing. Think twice about compromising the rigidity of a stock flywheel. They're cast steel, and not strong like chromoly. Take a look at this: http://redz31.net/pages/flywheel.html The links on the images don't work. you'll have to change the .com to .net for each of the images. please look at that before you decide to put yourself in danger by making a standard flywheel that is some-odd years old become half of it's intended weight.

well one of the reasons why I'd like a oil pan flange is to make a crank scraper with teflon sheets. I don't have a windage tray to use, so I figure an oil scraper with some holes in the right locations should work well.

hey, figure out if the clutch packs are compatible with your transmission from whatever that flywheel is from. chances are you can get a new clutch pack instead of selling everything. and then you can sell the clutch pack you got

damn straight it will. it's what i use for oil pans and valve covers. depends on what the mating surfaces are like (design), but it usually works. infact, I had smeared some over pin hole on the base of an oil pan temporarily and it held for the rest of the life of the car (5 years). I actually forgot to fix it because my fathers driveway was clean since that moment on I'm just not sure what the grey/black difference is. both are impervious to gas and oil and somewhat high temps. it really is the RIGHT STUFF to use for everything were a gasket should be. even more so if you have access to the mating surfaces from the inside (throttle bodies), you can just lightly sand the inside so that there are no pieces that squeeze out to the inside diameter of the bore when you've fastened them =)

The problem I've had with explaining to someone that it's a 350z fore-father is that people immediately associate it with the G35 as well and have to ask where the luxury version or what appointments the 280z came in. my answer is usually "theres always luxury in having a car that looks great 30 years later"

*peenus essplosing*

The best question to add to this is "BUDGET" and "what is it?"

you're onto something here twin z's, nations apart? LOL

My ecu does use staged injectors if I want to. I can see it being a good investment if the DCOE TB's are available. Not sure if I wanna spend that money JUST yet. LOL. if I were to run staged, I would run standoff injectors or possibly even make a short tube to go in between the throttles and the manifolds and have them bunged for injectors. I could also put that before the throttle bodies, but the throttle shafts would block some of the gas from its flow path a little bit. have you checked what the maximum length for TB runners can be with the stock manifolds on the RB30 in the S30?

Would this be the same as the RB30 bolt pattern? If I could get a copy of that file, i'd be interested in trying to fab my own pan. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm,

those look great mike. i was wondering if i should ditch the stock throttles or not. gimme some reasons as to why I should. LOL

i think shrouding from rear of IC to front of RAD would be ok if you left enough room in there for the somewhat hotter air to expand and hit some of the areas of the RAD you're now covering. I invision it being better than blocking off those portions of the RAD completely.

most of the people that see my derelect pile of sheet metal still say it's cute/sexy. "it's like... an old porsche!" how is that a bad thing?

I have the EXACT same pressurized sprayer container. I put WD40 in it. did you put your degreaser on it? Raff.

jbk, if you got any more "rusty" z's layin around I'll be the first to grab it

FUBAR = F'd Up Beyond All Recognition. "Wow, I finally got that bolt off, but it's FUBAR"

possibly, but with a 5.xxx rear you'd probably be at the very top end of what the car will reach by the end of 400 meters.

actually I think they came out in 75 too. early got the 240z chassis, later got the 280z chassis if I'm not mistaken (highly likely!)

owning more than one z really clears it up... example: "hey what is that" me: "it's a 300zx Turbo" "oh twin turbo?" me: "no, the 350z is the latest z. Before that was the twin turbo Z. before that was thing thing. Before that was the 280zx. Then before that were the 280 260 and 240z. "i dont get it" me: "THIS CAR (pointing to 87 300zx), is THAT CAR 11 years later.(pointing to 76 datsun) BOTH CARS are what the 350z is today." "ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh..."