Careless

who is this man, and does he have any daughters [19 - 30 years old (hey, I keep my options WIDE-open)] that I can wed? Thanks, Terry. Raff.

sorry, the above info is incorrect. it's a 30 micro mesh, and there is another brand that is a 15 micron. this one here is only 100 bucks. Slap on a magnafilter attachement, and there's a pretty good wear-prevention. http://www.hawkinsspeedshop.com/categories/products/product-16.html

Zardilla, I would rather buy a Trufilter, which is a stainless 10 micron washable film. It's 230 bucks, but it will outlast any car you put it on if you wash it properly (dont stretch the screen). seeing as almost all nissans use the same thread and almost all we have on this forum are all the same filter too, it may pay to get one of those filters and run the car till it dies, and then move the filter onto the next car. 3 canton filters, lasting 15,000 miles surpass the price of one TRU filter lasting 60,000 +. Still looks like a great filter though.

and if you want, you could drill it out and have your head-drain mod go back to that hole with a oil/heat resistant tube and a 90-degree AN fitting. Just remember to cut the end of the small cylindrical housing off in the pan, because it's not a hole, it's blocked off.

its for oil temperature. it is not a hole, it is an elongated cylinder that houses a thermistor, quite like that of the z31 VG oil pan (has a brown 1 pin connector, bundled up with the oil pressure sending wire and the starter wires, and is located just above the drain plug). maybe take the engine oil temp sensor from your VG and see if it threads into the pan. it should, and could possible work too if it's output range is the same as the RB20 unit.

ahhhhhhhhh go for the LM2, you'll always wish you had it, and then you'll upgrade and sell your LM1 for less than you bought it to sell it off quickly to have the rest of the cash for the LM2. 479 for the unit and sensor is a good investment for a tool that does what it do!

I'm afraid that when the web host makes changes, if they do not have the equipment and the software capable of rerouting to another server box that is real-time backup, you would get a forum that has non-existant pre-switchover new members, and posts from days ago brought up as new as well as newer posts not showing up. usually for forum maintenance there is a warning that comes up. you can be sure that it's not forum maintenance when that doesnt come about. the best way is to switch to a more reliable host... but this site gets tons of traffic so I can expect a down time or two every couple of months. I'm still trying to find the best hosting provider myself... it's hard.

jerry your car is lookin pretty sweet on the main page, there

I'll be in for one or two as well depending on price. still gonna have a look at my block, but i figure if i decide not to install it for whatever reason, I can always re-sell.

thank you for your explination tony. I know things can be line honed it's just the fact that RB26 heads are so hard to come by.... I mean I only ever found like 2 other RB26 heads in Toronto, and the rest were attached to 4000 dollar engines. I really want to be careful and minimize any machine work done to the head because I decided to choose a corrosive degreaser. Another worry are the lifter bores, as they are pretty deep in there, and just a bunch of worrisome parts that I'd rather not have an inexperienced person go in and touch and then say "ahhhh it'll be fine" when their clearances are off by what nissan states in their FSM, or whatever. Ordering oversized lifters is a possibility, but only if I have to. I mean... 24 bores to bore, 24 lifters. 6 cam caps x 2 for cam clearancing via line-hone... 150 - 300 for a line-hone on mains = a lot of money to spend because I used a corrosive cleaner. So who can honestly say that SimpleGreen will not marr aluminum, because the 4AGZE thread that had the pistons soaked in simple green stated that the pistons were no longer usable. I put some simple green and a couple of drops of water in the combustion chamber, with a spark plug to block from draining, and this morning it was brown, but there are still a lot of carbon spots. No corrosion evidence because the surface is rough anyway, and not like that of a lifter or cam bore.

hmmm. I'm going to look closer at the engine tonight when I get home.

well, by "we" you mean those with RB's. mine is going on VG for now, and the one I listed works for 1361 Napa Gold filter which is what I use ... so I read this thread while searching: http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=170011 I noticed that my blue nissan filter is definately wider than the black Napa Gold filter I got. However, mine didn't have a freakin' HOLE on the side of it. It does not spill out, if anything it spills less. Since bossproducts.us website has been a source for malicious internet adware and malware as reported by firefox, I'm attaching their pics for filter designation. Filters we need are in the first line:

BTW, that's a 2+2. Never seen an RB26 in a 2+2 yet, so that'd be cool. and if those are momo's that I see on there, make sure they're not warped. I've had two friends that had no relation to eachother but had the same types of wheels on two entirely different cars that were all lightweight and those wheels were seriously warped.

you should really look at threads from people like Getoffmyinternet, or even josh817's L28 thread to get a sense of what's involved in any I6. Most importantly the electrical mess you'll have to deal with, but I think more importantly are the "while it's out of the chassis" parts. for an RB26, you're looking at like 6000 as a base to do it relatively well. That may or may not include some rear disc brakes to help with stopping, but that's negligeable when you factor in everyhting else you need first. read what others have been going through, I'm sure if you asked for a current price list on items, or guess you can get a good idea of what it takes to build a nice 26 zed

all KA, VG, and RB filters are supposedly the same. I know KA and RB25 filters are the same, and I've read they're suitable for RB26's as well if they're of high quality obviously. Looking on my NOS nissan filter for my 87 Z31 tells me that the KA24 has the same filter as the VG, so I can only assume they will work on either engine. I think there are also GA16DE oil filters that are exactly the same. And I just bought a Magnafilter adapter today from northern tool, linked here: http://www2.northerntool.com/product/200356549.htm As always, check your application before purchasing, if mines is wrong... well.. sucks for me!

sorta like how all aircraft reinforcements used to be able to pinpoint a door with laser guided missles, now they can pinpoint the door knob... did they really need to make it that precise. LOL it's a bomb!

<= waiting for video while eating peanut-butter and jealous sandwich.

s15 is 30 years newer and has tons of aftermarket support in recent years, but not as much as s13 or s14 here in North America.

wouldn't you have like at least like half a litre of oil sitting in between the sump and the head in the drain line at high G's though?

not to be nitpicky, but since art is an abbreviation for "artificial", that would put photoshop in the realm of art- indefinitely. There are tons of "photoshop artists" that take patience and have diligence enough to sit in front of a computer analyzing every pixel... so please don't say it's "like" art. I've seen horrible painters or people that have found something "new and exciting" in the world of boredom and stupidity pass as "artists". Sorry, just had to put that out there. Don't take it personal, just let it be known

any requests for pictures while my head is out in the open? I'll go in the garage tomorrow and snap some 12.3 Megapixel photos

so what about a choice for NA engines, although definitely not as popular, when talkin valve choices. will the titanium help toss the heat to the surrounding head material faster through bronzanium guides? and as for valve springs, I hear that the Cosworth ones are new and are relatively good for a wider range than the double spring rate kind, seeing as the seat pressure is very high on the double spring versions from what I read on another thread (this is the only place where I can get my info anyway... not too many people doing a LOT of RB26 head mods around here to make it a viable option for seeking info). There are about 3 N/A projects going on around here, and I'm sure an RB25DE or two... would piston coats like jet-hot help in reducing exhaust valve heat? I'm thinking the best way to get rid of the heat are the beryllium valve seats, seeing as they put a better conducting metal closer to the water jackets that run close to the valve seat.

hmmmm... I wonder where i can get some Mirachem 500 in Toronto.

stony, thanks.. this exactly what I was hoping this would turn into. someone told me it was "obvious" what needed to be done to clear the additional valve actuation of the high lift cams. looks like something 10 minutes with a grinder can cure.

SimpleGreen has warnings on the label that state not to have it come in contact with aluminum parts for long periods of time... so is it safe? TonyD, I'm not sure why one couldn't align hone the cam bores, but nissan does not sell the caps individually, so in the even that that align hone goes wrong... will I have to put bushings of some sort?