Careless

Try using rust-bullet instead.

the number 28 is often associated with z28's- which came with v8s. and the number 28 has an 8 in it, and so does v8. and so does your zee car.

use an epoxy that is impervious to oil and one that holds really well, and put it in the sump, but away from the pickup tube, as they have the strength to suck particles right off a magnet if they are revved high enough. I have tiny magnets that I glue to my drain plugs that can pick up an entire screwdriver and they are smaller than a dime, and about 8mm thick.

my supplier keeps askin me if i wanna do the RB30 thing again, but to be honest it's a hassle if it's not a local pickup. people just don't see the potential/value in a 1200 dollar piece of iron once it's packaged and whatnot. it gets costly.

hi mike. i am still having trouble removing the cross over pipe. it looks like i'm going to have to take the passenger side mani off and slide it out and then remove the studs from it and insert the new ones, along with a new cross pipe cause the one i have is showing signs of burn through on the flex joint. as for the throw out bearing, i ordered a collar from nissan and put the new bearing on. the bearing that came with my clutch kit was an actual nissan OEM bearing =) I know because it has the last 5 digits from the part number stamped on the one I took out, and they're numbers matching and it looks 100% the same, all metal. also, I used some fine emery paper to clean the input shaft sleeve, and the nose of the input shaft itself, as I think that was one of the grab spots that the pilot bushing was being wedged against ... both the pilot and the shaft show signs of friction and wear, unlike any wear i've seen on an engine in this area before. definately a cause for concern. Today I welded a nut onto the stud to see if i can remove it... no go. the nut broke off two thread revolutions clean off the head of the stud. so it's going to be pulled, im going to superheat the manifold, and then get that sucker out for sure. I think I may just pull the turbo side off too and just replace the gaskets there, but that side is full of so many damn cluttered wires. I'm wishing this thing was a carb'd race car right about now. no body harness and no engine gadgets. oh well. takes time, but im riding my bike to work

OK SO... tried to weld a nut onto the stud to wrench it out, and the stud broke 2 threads off the tip. the welding had super heated it with immense redness! still no budge. so the last resort is to basically take the passenger side manifold off, clean the head mating surface, clean the manifold mating surface, remove the studs by using a super duper torch and then removing the other two studs off the driver side manifold. then I'm going to put it on, and then finally put that ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ clutch back on so I can drive this thing. I hope it works for me =(

that looks really really well done. good job. =) i hope the work you did with the internals pays off. I'm willing to bet besides the ordeals with the irate child, your dad jankin' parts from you, and your wait times on certain pieces, you have come to enjoy building engines and this won't be the only one you do in the near future (for other cars, or more power, ofcourse!). drive it like you built it

I hope you have some tri-cycle wheels bolted to the perpendicular to the fenders (perhaps on the doors?) and suspension coils for engine mounts because a 4 on 4 firing order from side to side is going to flip that car upside down without dampening.

Swell. So so. Getting a little annoyed with current web projects led by other people. It's been rainy for the passed couple of days, but I nap through the storms and work through the sun. Not my idea of 'Time Management' I'm going to be doing the same for my land-lords boat. before and after the rennovations, or before and after your son grows. what year can we expect a resurrection of this thread, if the later? :hijack:by ourselves

How big is that thing? I bought this grinder. Same color, same collet, same size, same specs off ebay for 30 bucks: http://www.toolbarn.com/product/eagle/5000/ It, to date, has been one of my top 5 tool purchases. It is small, light, has shaft play, and it literally makes grinding as easy as writing cursive (if you've got some elegance doin it ) It's about 3mm thinner than a generic yellow highliter marker, and about an inch or two longer. The exhaust runs back down the air line so it doesn't blow in your face, and it has a finely adjustable speed. The collet is a little small, but that means you can use smaller tools and get into smaller places Don't let the low horsepower fool you. I used this baby and a quality dremel bit to chop down some welds on a heat shield that the PO's mechanic put on my car. Took about 30 seconds a weld without forcing the bit (not good for tools!). I would recommend it for fine work, as it's not the time in which you get the job done, but rather the quality (this is your car, right?)

now that's doubley true cause your posted the truth in a public place!

no sorry if i made it seem impossible. on the end of the input shaft, just before the taper... there is a small grinding mark. it's a friction area that looks to be in line with a portion of the PILOT bushing that also has a grinded edge. It could be possible that the pilot bushing and input shaft sometimes catch there, and continue to spin. WHO KNOWS! On a side-not... can one re-use clutch pressure plate bolts? or should I replace them? They were on back order. Everything else was there. :-/

so you would have to construct a circuit take the output voltage of the DBW system and multiply or divide it as a correction factor for proper stock ECU operation? or is there a certain type of signal besides a linear voltage that controls the throttle position? (does DBW have throttle position integrated, or no?)

i just noticed my attempt at an image doesn't look proper on a PC. oh well!

dont take apart a near mint original 240z. you could probably sell it for more than you bought it for

I personally think it's the pressure plate. I tested my theory. get this: Clutch was not letting go. Something weird was happening. I bled the system and it was pushing the fork all the way. I adjusted the pedal adjusting bolt, and it was pushing the clutch master pin to the max. It was still being testy. I noticed that If in an empty parking lot at 1 in the morning, I was able to circle the ENTIRE parking lot @ 7 KM per hour, without ever pressing the gas once. I just let off the clutch pedal really really slowly. But this car's got torque so I didn't think anything of it. Now with the pedal rod adjusted to max, fork moving max, I noticed that sometimes if I stepped on the pedal REALLY hard, all the way down, the throwout bearing would lock itself against the pressure plate, and start to make a roller-skate wheel sound, or a slight metal rubbing sound. After removing the trans... I noticed that if I were to pivot the fork to MAX possible, the throwout bearing has two hard cut edges on the inside of the bearing collar that get STUCK on the end of the input shaft sleeve, and sorta grab the edge of the sleeve and keep the throwout bearing LOCKED at the edge of the sleeve... So I think that no matter how hard the pressure plate was being pressed, it was not fully releasing the clutch for some reason. My flywheel was probably expanding due to heat, as it has some slight cracking... and my pilot bushing has a tiny grinding mark on the edge of the pilot bushing, and the input shaft has a bit of a ground-in mark there too, so it was probably catching that point of the pilot bushing and almost acting like a ratchet, in that it catches the little piece and spins in it's direction with the right amount of force not to break off another piece of the soft bearing, but enough to keep the trans moving. We'll find out what the F is going on by the end of the week. That's when it's going all back together hopefully. I go to get the other parts tomorrow! I know what you mean about it being outside, that would have been great. I'm removing the damper too, so my shifts will be more direct. But... now I got a lightened flywheel, and It has all new ignition parts and stainless lines on every brake/slave.... I'm at about 2700 in total, car included. I think for the price, and the amount of compliments I've gotten on it already, people seem to think it's a good car =) Raff.

Before you get the bearings, have the main bearing journals checked for straightness or wear. You may need to have an align hone done, and then might have to purchase oversized bearings to compensate for removed material. Check thrust bearing surfaces. Check crank pin edges for abnormal wear. Have the oil holes on the crank cleaned. Chamfer all oil holes that you can reach, and have the crank shaft oil holes chamfered professionally to avoid scarring the bearing surfaces. (at least if they do it, they gotta repair it). get a set of cookie-discs to thinly and gently grind mating surfaces for things like the oil pump, water pump and whatnot, so that it is completely clean and smooth, and flat (if your machinist charges too much to do it themselves... which they do sometimes). Replace any bolts. Get new freeze plugs. Have the old ones removed, and have the block hot tanked. check rod side-play as per FSM using a feeler guage (spend some money on a good quality set) check thrust clearance before and after installing new bearings. You'll probably want an inside micrometer that covers ranges from your piston bore to your main bearing bore size, or a set of bore gauges that you can lock and then measure using an outside micrometer (cheaper and in most cases just as effective). 2000 is good for a complete block rework and some minor head prep. I think you have a pretty generous budget, just don't factor the tools in.

lol yeah most of what i read is "the FS5R30A can nevAr brokes!11!!!" I think either the damper or the slave are internally messed .perhaps not releasing at full load. I got a stainless line now, so that should be ok. Also got my Fidanza Flywheel and F1 Racing Clutch, which is a SECO unit with a carbon kevlar disc. Looks good. Also came with a new nissan bearing, but I ordered a new nissan bearing and collar together... so right now I have the following parts ready for going in: 1) crossover pipe studs 2) crossover pipe gaskets 3) new OEM flywheel bolts 4) new OEM pressure plate bolts 5) new pivot ball stud 6) new clutch fork 7) new clutch fork bearing retainers 8) new throw-out bearing 9) new pilot bushing 10) new rubber fork/bellhousing boot 11) new stainless clutch line 12) new flywheel 13) new clutch and disc is there anything else that I'm missing? I'm going to pick up all the bolts and stuff tomorrow.

I've got two on the rise. Just waiting to buy a camera (this week) first. and the i'll use the extra cash for my two plates

the colour of the car and the flat design of the valve cover make it look like it was purposely built to fit into that car. man, oh man!

lol were you searching for threads about yourself?

e-type.

gaht dangit... that is a thing of beauty! where did u get the flangeless throttle horns with detachable grub screw bases?

As long as they are SFI approved, they should be somewhat safer than lightening a standard flywheel by taking half of it's mass away. I'll let you know how it is in a week. I'm waiting for a damn check and fill plug to put onto my transmission then pop that on with my new clutch and fidanza flywheel. stupid plugs! my sentiments exactly.

I remember rontyler making one, that I know for sure. As for the intake setup, when the size of the tubes say "we gotta go through the interior cabin" you know there's something "extreme" about it. im scared!