Careless

Could it be that the pressure plate (while new) is defective, and does not release the clutch disc? How could I test the pressure plate? I remember after adjusting the pedal-rod, the throwout bearing was scratching against the pressure plate fingers. I don't know why it would scratch so much, that sounds to me like there's no give to the pressure plate.

more reason to keep running Royal Purple then there are dyno runs that claim the same amount of HP gain (in LS1's specifically) as the ENEOS brand. No need to go hunting for it either thanks jc

It's so hard to pick a good product these days. People use these devious marketing tactics all the time. I hate it too cause It's my profession to make it look nice =(

Why hasn't Advanced Engine Management Systems hired you yet, Bo! shall I scold them with vigor?!

Yeah, didn't work very well. Or maybe I'm not good at it. It was hard pulling it out of gear too. Could it be possible that the synchros are "sticky"? I got some redline MT90, but I'm not sure if I should just clean my clutch and put the unit back in the car. :-/

I think it looks nice, btw. I would consider giving it a different basecoat. Maybe a goldish, or a red-like basecoat.

CHOO PLUSS CHOO IS FOREEEE.

Hmmm. I've never seen that rebuttal by Timken. So is it safe to say RP had some push in that test?

I'd take wear prevention over horsepower gain. I'm not sure how this applies to the ENEOS, but has anyone seen the Timken Bearing load testing from the Commodores magazine that reviewed 12 synthetics? ENEOS wasn't one of them, but the results were pretty astonishing.

looks like that vette waited 31 years to get trounced by his own kin. LOL

looks great. I'm proud

*checks web-page masthead* SHEESH, I COULD HAVE THOUGHT I STUMBLED ONTO VW-VORTEX OR A HONDA FORUM HERE. you guys need to give it a rest. no one is hurt, jeffer most likely took the brunt of this with insurance, life moves on.

yeah it just said "sensor" as part of the description, but I'll trust you know more than I do about the factory system.

I'd also like to mention that there was a transmission flush about a year or so ago, maybe a bit more. The clutch was done in 2006 at a local Z shop, and it looks to have been installed just fine. I have all the paper work and whatnot. Can't see anything out of the ordinary with any of the receipts at that time. The clutch disc, flywheel, and pressure plate look all perfect.... Except that there were very fine cracks in the flywheel. Could it be warping? Could the pressure plate case be flexing under the heat? There seems to be some burn marks on the flywheel. Well.. more like heat affected zones, but not severe burn marks of any sort. The previous owner did say that since the clutch swap, it never did drive the same. I'm not sure what the hell to deduce by that

Hi everyone. SO. I finally managed to get my transmission off my 87 Z31 Turbo. I took off the clutch to reveal that it's a UNISIA unit, which I believe is standard OEM. It's practically brand new. Nothing wrong with it. Infact, I'm considering just cleaning it up and putting it back on depending on what I can withdrawl from the hybridz mainframe of brains (you guys!). Anyway. I noticed 10 days after getting my car on the road and driving for maybe... 100 miles that going into gear while rolling was getting harder and harder. 10 days before that it was FINE. no grinding at all, not synchros yelling at me. Even trying to pull the the transmission out of gear was starting to feel "unnatural". It always had a clunk to it. When I'm at a dead stop, it goes in just fine. No forcing required whatsoever. It started to act up so I bled the system via gravity. Still, same problem. SO I decided to push out the pedal adjustment rod. Now I have the throwout bearing hitting making funny sounds. But still, same problem. SO today I bought the transmission attachment for my large jack, got under there, pulled it off with my friend, and I find that the clutch is fine, except that the pilot bushing has a gouge in it. on the outer face of the pilot bushing there seems to be a scrape/gouge mark that shows the brass/bronze being eatin away. The input shaft that slips into the bushing also has a gouge at the hilt of the piece that inserts into the pilot bushing. The input shaft has about 0.5 mm of play in all directions. I'm not sure if that's even worth mentioning, but I will. It's not as if it seems to be really bad or anything... somewhat normal for a 21 year old transmission. The transmission even spins by hand in all gears. I drained the tranny fluid and purged it with some ATF poured through the shifter hole with the drain hole opened. I drained the ATF into a can and then poured the ATF back into the ATF bottle using a paper towel as a filter. There were TINY particles, but nothing to be alarmed about. No chunks. nothing more than say... the thickness of a hair. The magnet on the drain hole plug had a lot of shavings on it too, but again, I figure 21 years of slammin' gears isn't going to be anything less. My dilemna is now trying to find out what the problem is. A friend of mine said that as he had his hand on the shifter while the car was idling, he could feel a spinning motion through the shifter. I know I felt it before too at one point. I'm not sure whether to suspect that gouge in the pilot bushing to be anything of concern perhaps some driveline shock? I'm kinda depressed now. I was hoping it was going to be like YAY, A SPRING BROKE, TIME TO FIX CLUTCH... now i'm not so sure. I got a taste of Z's for the first time, and only drove it for 10 days, and ... now nothing

did you replace it at all with a different colour link? I reckon there's supposed to be atleast 3 different colours to differentiate the different blow-out amperage.

buy it thinking it's a 2500 from what's on the valve cover. if it happens to be a 3000, SCORE!

if you guys want to save time and the rims are really bad, it might pay to just have a refinisher go at them. the cost is about 100 per wheel. Not too bad if you really like the wheels.

great writeup, thanks challenger.

im concerned because osaka has a rep for bad engines. mainly because they do get their engines from crash victims.

read:

i think im going to buy the 240mm version and hook it up to a fidanza.

me too i think that's what im going to use.

cancel your order

Wear a sandblasting uniform, buy 6 ton jackstands, and put the car as high as possible.... And perhaps make a shield for yourself with a rubber glove to hold the shield with your elbow, and gun with your hand. also, whatever sandblasting unit you buy, make sure you have a capable compressor and make double sure you have an air dryer. moisture in the lines is what will make you curse. It clogs the sand in the hose because it turns it into wet sand. For this reason I like using aluminum oxide shavings, but that may be too abrasive for the exterior. I've only ever sandblasted small things.