Careless

you ought to link us, you boob!

and one more thing never occured to me. but...uh..... it's possible that electrolysis might work, since the tank is metal. LOL. all you would need to do is "borrow" a battery charger from a local retail store with their 30 day borrowing policy, some water and baking soda, and a couple of wires. it might work!

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHA

my car is still spewin some of that stuff. combined with some oil that i KNOW it stripped off the intake plenum walls because i see it coming out of the tailpipe, and there is no more oil in the plenum (stuck open pcv valve, DAMN YOU!)

Just to add to this. you could buy distilled water at a local hardware or automotive store (look near the radiator coolant). I would recommend about 2 gallons. Buy some fine glass bead in a 10lbs bag, with some small rocks too if you can find a small area around the 'hood that has them. Put them in the tank with HOSE WATER and shake shake shake to break apart and remove flakes and large clumps of rust and then drain. Rinse with distilled water. Then go to Home Desperate and buy some "BEHR Concrete Etcher" for 10 bucks. It's a big black jug with a purple stripe on it. Put about 1/3 of the jug in there and slosh it around (wear a mask, it smells like chocolate depending on the weather but it's a lot worse than chocolate is for you!). It's phosphoric acid. It will turn the remaining rust into iron phosphate rather than iron oxide (rust). Then rinse one mo' time with hose water (you must rinse it after 20, max!) and then rinse again with distilled water. Now you're ready for kreem. All in all, i'd say it's about 2 hours work. Do it on a hot day, have a bbq goin. you'll be fine =) I wire-wheeled almost the entire side of my Z car and I was afraid it would rust. on one end I whiped some concrete etcher on it, and on the other I did not. Immediately, you will notice that it turns brighter if the surface is clean. If it is full of rust, it will turn black. After you rinse it, it stays the same, but over 18 months, one side has developed a small haze of rust, the other side looks like i patch welded a new piece of metal on there (but really it was just some concrete etcher!)

http://www.ldrider.ca/techpages/gastankrepair.htm try the first step at removing the rust by sloshing it around. just hang it from a tree and fill it with some stuff mentioned here or some other rust remover and really just spin it and whatever to clean it out. then you can wash it with distilled water so that you get all he chemicals out of it completely before applying this as a sealer: http://www.kreemproducts.net/p-35-kreem-titan-combo.aspx It could cost about 100 to do it yourself or 200 - 300 to have someone else do it with some more industrial strength products. If you know of a good rust remover, that's the first step. g'luck!

that sounds more like it.

YES. It's fairly easy procedure.

never intended it to be what? im not sure what you're replying to in my post.

well if you're saying you see 2 sensors there, then the second numnber should be the one yuo're looking for ZDrifter. Because whether or not it says "COOLANT" it has a picture of a sensor, which would be the second one you speak of. I can't guarantee but I have a hunch. Seeing as some of the skyline parts I've ordered had 4 letters from a 6 letter word, like "SPACER" comes up as SPAC sometimes.

Call JGY and cancel your order, they're pretty good about it if it hasn't shipped. If in the end, our resident fabricator/distributor here on hybridz doesn't decide to produce and or sell them, you can always return to JGY. Just say it's a money issue, and the bank is lookin for some answers.

Well excuse me for sounding harsh, but that's just the nature of what I do. I create/modify/reject logos and creative brands. The Z has a strong brand, and I'm not sure how to be "constructive" about something you don't like that you've decided to bring in for discussion. "Here's a bird. I don't like this bird. Do you like this bird?" That's more or less what your first post says. So in a way, I'm just agreeing with you.

I think it looks great. perhaps to hold it onto the base better, you could roll over the edge of the CF to double it up where it fastens to the base flange and then drill/tap small holes and use small machine screws to keep the glue and CF together under boost, maybe one every inch and a half. I think it would give it a really nice look too OR, to make it look more like a machined part/production part, instead of using washers for the aforementioned screws, use a long strip of 16 or 18 guage aluminum and form it to the shape of the plenum, and then screw in some tapered head screws into some counter sunk holes on the screw-surface (might need to be 14 guage for countersinking depending on screw size), and then that would give it strength to support the glue and make it looks great. and you can engrave "made by: " in small on the edge or the back. =) just at thought, I wouldn't mind the fabricators small name like that to give it a professional look. and depending on how many ppl want them for each engine type, working in the price to get some plenum bases machined would probably be a good idea. might only drive up your cost (when you factor in the time it takes you to make the unit by hand) by like 20 bucks for each manifold. For the time it saves, I don't think that's a bad loss if you want to consider it as one. swaaaaaaaaayte

i'm not sure if you've seen this link, but AZ-BUM illustrated it quite well on his very good informational database: http://www.az-zbum.com/modification.maxima.alternator.shtml

i agree with jerry. a swan or a pelican has no place on a z. sure it swallows engines and dances on one foot depending on what rear end is equipped, but it's not enough to pursued me to say I like the thought of a bird on the Z :-/

looks right'n'purdy

probably for a boost guage. one heck of a fitting though. Could be to test for pressure in the system, but it's not a petcock, so I don't see it being closed at all without something on the end.

u know.... that mod for the oil pump ain't so bad. LOL

how's he doing?

yeah, you really gotta take care of yourself, never too late. As for my father, i visited him today in cardiovascular Intensive Care Unit. He looks like he's not comfortable at all. My mom is a trooper for staying there with him for 6 hours today. During the operation, a lot of mucous and saliva is gravity fed into the lungs because of the drugs pumped into the body... the muscles cant naturally control the flow of the substances the body produces. His lungs are now filled with some mucous and saliva. So there's this very uncomfortable machine that they hook your mouth up to. It's a mask that is strapped to your face much like a regular breathing apparatus, only it forces air into your lungs under pressure. This is because the mucous and water in the lungs tend to pull the lung together and cause it to collapse because of the "stiction" of the mucous in some cases. So they use this thing to pressurize his lungs to make them expand, and let the natural breathing take it's course to aid in the release of the mucous in there. The nurse said he tried the machine and said it's quite uncomfortable, and i had to hold my fathers hand so he wouldn't remove it from his face. He had to have it for 2 hours. Then they put a vacuum tube in his lung and sucked out the mucous that way too, but only after the lung has been expanded to a safe level. He then got the regular clean air mask, and started to feel calm, and fall asleep. A friend of a friend's uncle just had a bypass like this, and it took a couple of months to get all the mucous out, but eventually it happens. kinda sucks to see my dad like this, but hopefully he's learned his lesson soon enough. it's something I hope anyones loved ones go through. He's probably going to be in ICU for about 2 weeks, and then upstairs to the regular treatment rooms. I think it's going to be something like a 6 month recovery. He'll probably be home around 3 months from now. It's gonna be quite a battle but we have some good healthcare facilities here. I'll let you guys know when he's capable of putting a sentence together. His first sentence better have a Z in it

Also, if you were to zero the deck, your quench is 0.051. I think instead of going with cutting the pistons, you should use a 1 mm headgasket to get you a quench of .040 which is close to the 0.035 - 0.037 that people seem to find as a good value between too close and too far. it leaves good room for expansion of rods, that would close the piston to head clearance up by a tenth or so at a touch over operating temp. 64cc combustion chamber 5.5cc piston DOME 0 deck clearance 87mm x 1mm gasket = 8.75 take 2cc of the combustion chamber = 8.999:1 the extra 0.5mm on the gasket bore really does nothing to the compression ratio. However, I'm curious if that would become a hot spot.

using the compression calculator at: http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html I get a ratio value of 9.96:1 with your stated specs. dropping the pistons by 11cc gives you 8.49:1 changing the combustion chamber volume to 62cc and a 4.5cc dish on the pistons give you a ratio of 7.73:1. What he meant to say was a dome of 4.5 cc, which puts you at 8.66:1 with a combustion chamber vol of 62cc. I try to use Dyno2003 software but there are two values in the software that have almost no bearing on any measurements i've seen as standard values used in these formulas, therefore I do not use that software at all because I think it's hard to apply "fake" values to see what I need to get to the desired comp ratio.

and the sonnett has a z like profile!

yeah especially when my brother and mother keep me out of the loop. :-/ gonna go visit him tomorrow, since it's father's day and all.

All RB 02 sensors seem to be the same except for RB26. 22740-75T00