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HybridZ

Careless

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Everything posted by Careless

  1. This is what I got i my personal picture/info index. I'm putting together a gallery, slowly but surely... here's the flywheel bolt I got... I believe it's an RB25 flywheel bolt, not too sure though, but the 42L number probably means it is. If you want the RB26 version, try replaceing the 42L11 with 58S00. If that returns a number with "BOLT-FLYWHEEL" beside it (ask to see the screen at nissan), you can use those ones. Let me know if it's the same size/bolt so I can add the relevant information to my repository.
  2. K So I got the gasket kit. it comes with everything that a Nissan VRS Kit comes with. But I still don't have instructions on torque specs for anything in the head except for the head bolts I Figure replacing the valve seals would involve removal of the cam for this engine. so don't i need the torque values for the cam retainers or anything? this smells
  3. lol you're such a bad gifter, paul.. I thought we were all pitching in for a 12V Scooter with a Cane-holster.
  4. Hi Friends, I need to know if anyone here has access to an FSM for a Nissan Micra...K10 chassis with the MA12 engine, or the MA10 engine if it has the same head bolt pattern and whatnot. I'm basically replacing all the gaskets on the 1.2 litre on my friends micra, and we're reusing the head bolts (i know, i know... bla bla bla. save it)... I need to know if someone with the haynes or the factory service manual can scan me the pages that involve removing the head. there should be like 8 or 9 pages. PRETTY PLEEEEEEEEEZE thanks everyone. I hope to be replacing it on the weekend. Raff
  5. it's aight man. you got your fun out of it, im sure. the struts on your dads car is his own maintenance issue, not yours. i hope your s30 is just as fun for you =)
  6. tannji, try running OSX on that badboy. it's got all compatible parts, from what i can see.
  7. heck if its 207 dollars for 5 of them, you could quin-charge your car.
  8. a friend of mine showed me this epoxy that was black/dark grey, and it's basically put on like you put fixtures onto a bathroom wall or whatever. its in a silicone tube, and it's actually stronger than welding, because you get more coverage. It does obviously add weight, but it will never crack or move. this stuff is TOUGH. I know its an automotive product, so it can't be hard to find in the right places, but he stopped welding after using that stuff, and never had a problem with panels.
  9. yes he has main studs, i asked him to check the length of them according to RB30 engines as well, to see if they were the same, but i don't think they are, and her never got back to me. LOL. he answered all my other questions though.
  10. I agree that it would be hard to do, financially, but if enough are produced in the hopes that it would take X amount of years to sell, if they DO infact sell, it could be a worthwhile long-term investment. You'd have to keep interest in the L series long enough though. A lot more swaps are happening, but it seems a lot more new cool projects are coming out too Brian, good work on getting it back to running and even better than before. Glad you're having fun doing this... at least it seems that way. I'm anxious to see the in-car vids.
  11. lol. magnesium or titanium engines would be cool. or hot.
  12. Get a small air compressor oil-air filter that is filled with desiccant pellets (blue ones), and tap that hole and run a barb fitting run a line from that spout to the IN on the filter. Put it inline with the breather on the VC, and when the pellets are pink, change them. you'll get less gunk, and oil and fumes in your engine, and you'll soak up the crap with the desiccant pellets, which can be replaced quickly and easily, and pretty inexpensively. Good filters have a pass through on the top (from one side to the other) with a hole at the bottom for draining the unit. (so that's 3 holes) Put a petcock there, and fill the unit with some steel wool (the springy kind) instead of the desiccant pellets if you want., and you can see how much oil passes through, and you can drain it when it's full. The steel wool just helps to keep the oil closer together, rather than the possibility of it sloshing around while driving, and meeting with the hole that is creating vacuum. You can read about this stuff on the g00g.
  13. call them back and ask them for a break-down... I seriously wanna know how much I can charge people for that kinda stuff. LOL
  14. beat me to it! they wouldn't look bad on a car as a city driving wheel with some sturdy street rubber.
  15. yep, crimped or not, part of the wiring process is not only making the connection, but supporting it, tugging on it to make double-sure, and putting zip ties and strain reliefs in the proper areas. It looks like you have all the right tools to do the job, your wiring looks great!
  16. hey BJ, your setup looks a lot like my dads basement. LOL. drafting tables are awesome for fine soldering, as they have a swing-arm magnifying lense that makes soldering surface mount resistors and such using a mini handy-vice (those are the coolest!) very easy. Of course, you could also get magnifying head gear, which I own too. So that small heavy-guage jumper you made, I'm guessing you crimped it first, then heat shrunk it the ends, then snake-skinned it, and then doubly-ply heat shrunk the ends again to prevent unfurling or fraying of the snake-skin sheath?
  17. lol i was just kidding about the tiles, but it does pose as a viable approach to having extra eating space, and extra storage space. I can even store cold drinks in the cylinders since the iron would be pretty frigid.
  18. yep, i plan on doing the same with all the wiring in my car.. it will add a couple of pounds, but I think it will be worth the peace of mind. the pins are bloody expensive though. ABOUT SOLDERING: a lot of electrical technicians will tell you that cars are to be butt-crimped rather than soldered in terms of wiring, due to the fact that copper wire crystalizes with the tin/lead mix in solder during it's heat cycle. HOWEVER, that's only because most people don't know how to solder properly. When you clip some length off of a wire, use that clipping to *tin* the wire and test for flexibility using two pairs of needle nose pliers. While tinning the wire, use caution in the heat of the iron, and if it's REALLY hot (40W or higher) then do an on-off application with the tip of the iron to minimize crystallization. crystallization of the copper/lead/tin will lead to poor vibration resistance, and will start to develop cracks and break sooner or later. It's best to use a variable heat range iron. Also, don't use plumbing flux, most of it is corrosive and would end up eating the insulation completely over a number of years.
  19. hey bjhines, the amp connectors come in a lot more sizes and pin configurations... some with 10g and 14 + 16g mixed too. even a certain distance from the others to prevent any combating frequencies from altering signals, even though they're built well enough that it doesn't require it much (but they do it incase, lol why not! the room is there sometimes). do you have a source that you buy from that only sells one?
  20. ahh... good call. at least we know it's not a GTR engine. that cutaway is pretty close to the photo, so i guess it's showing all the coil packs. i wonder why the new GTR has a 4.5 litre though =/ either way, look how far back into the cabin they put it. CHEATERS!
  21. it had a VH45 in it. take a look at the cutaway, there are 2 inter-coolers, and two different sides to the intake plenum. you can also see 3 of the 4 coil packs on one side of the engine, below the plenum. even the new GTR has a 4.5 litre in it for the touring cars. not the 3.8
  22. ingenious! will it crack my tiles? lol. thats a great idea, really!
  23. and why scallops? do you make harvest pearls or fish a lot or.... ?
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