Careless

Hahahah, "tupperware"????... that rubbermaid bin held up to 2 previous RB30's!!! meany. I wonder what Brent did with the wreckage we left in his shed though. It would have flew off on the highway anyway. You know, the highway we went down for 15 minutes before we realized we had to turn at the first light we went through. HAHAHA. Actually, lets just keep it hybridZ for now. I'm doing it to get more of these beasts of engines in here, and I'm going to go for only 6, as I haven't that much room. If I need to ship more, we can do a second run. Thanks though! I might be able to stuff more, I'll see what my land lord and what my supplier can do and has time for. Thanks SHHHHH! (damn, I still need to make changes to that stuff too, this weekend sounds good). Oh, and if anyone comes to buy engines in person, lunch is on me!

I got word that allz we need is 6 buyers and this COULD happen sometime when the snow dies down (I got 3 inches tucked up against the front door of the house, so you can bet I got nowhere to put these engines). 1.2 x 1.2 meter crate will ship 6 engines (that's what the last pallets size was). I'd then have to charge for wood (no labour though) and building of the other crates to transport the engine to wherever you live. Local pickup saves you money. I can see about 3 or 4 people picking them up local, so shipping 2 isn't all that bad for me, really. BUT ♥♥♥♥ THESE GUYS ARE HEAVY. And hopefully Racinjitter and I won't have to drag them across a cornfield of snow on a metal shelf like the last one we did, while trying to avoid hitting FC's and FD's in the parking lot. UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Oh yah, One more thing. Because of people backing out the first time (that's why I had one block accessible for another member here, and a spare block for myself which I then sold) shipping costs A LOT, especially for this weight and size. thats 5x5 feet or more., about 3.5 feet high, and the crate alone costs in the neighbourhood of 350 bucks. so if you're serious, you will pay upfront... shipping can take anywhere from 6 - 10 weeks, perhaps a bit more depending on how fast all the downpayments are received. IF you want to do this, I can make it easier by having you guys notify me when you have the money (prices to come soon), and I ask that you hold onto it until everyone can pay at one time. Racinjitter knows where both my houses are, so I won't do away with your money and never return. And scottyMIz would probably come with him (after meeting up with alexideways, who would come over from the Q out east.), and they'd probably bring baseball bats and gloves with them (to keep it legal). And they could be really really big people that could crush me. Frankly, I would not take the chance of trying to take money and run... LOL And besides, the info on this site is much more valuable to me than your guys money for these engines, to be quite honest.

the latest additions to this thread from everyone look awesome, all of em!

the ford head has the cam gear in the middle of the cam though, doesn't it? at least my friend's 968 w/ variocam does =/

That's great. thanks for sharing that tip guys. Now, as for the material used. Can you shed some light on your choice of alloys and why it was used, as well as preferred methods/settings for welding? I have a 225 amp welder that can weld stainless and aluminum but it's a mig, and it uses the spray arc. Is this suitable at all? I would really like to try my hand at doing this. I read here that doing stainless welding with welding rod/stick is even easier and looks great. I'm not too concerned about looks really, but i'd like the headers I make to be radiused nicely with not too many straight cuts that interfere with positioning of other things in the engine bay. I am pretty good at mig welding, and I'd obviously practice, but I'm wondering if welding them this way would suffice and hold up to a high-comp N/A application. I'm sorry if this doesn't fit in this thread, but I'm sure some people are looking for some of the same information in regards to your own work here. I was thinking of going for a small set of these blocks here: http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm they look good and I wouldn't mind making and getting paid for fabbing some headers up. Thanks

i COULD set something up.... but shipping is gonna be a disaster. cause my engine importer is not too impressed with the speed at which the first ones were sold.... and I'm pretty sure I can sell him some more a lot quicker than the first run of 6 =) How many would be in? Add your name to the list.... they go from 500 - 800 (shipping not incl.) depending on condition, usually based on the way the cylinders look. Out of 6 he had, only one had a small issue, and the block is still going to be put through some heavy abuse to see if it was a problem at all (scottyMIz will let us know) Potential RB30 buyers list: 1) Careless (yeah, I'll take another) 2) alexideways 3) Racinjitter 4) synthtk If I can get enough people interested, I can see what I can do, but so far... 4 - 6 engines may not be worth it for us, since for that many we will need to borrow container space (we're not shipping a crate of 6 and paying for an entire container. LOL) and right now he's having trouble doing that for my RB26 that i've been waiting a year on =(

engine + model year that it came from. I can get you the part numbers today or tomorrow, but you need to tell us more info or take pics too.

or perhaps you're talking about the retaining groove that holds the bearing in place with the tiny little piece of metal that holds the bearing into the groove? the grinding and the oversized bearing should account for all of that with a smaller retainer.

i think the rails you are talking about are to keep oil around the perimeter of the bearing so that the entire bearing is cooled rather than lubricated (you wouldn't need too much lube there), and the edges don't heat up from the inside out, causing the clearance to change rapidly. the bearings are usually radiused along the edges rather than sharpened to a corner so that there's more oil clearance there too. I think it will be fine. pics would help.

so will this band clamp trick work on slightly radius-ed joints as well, or is it because yours are the wider 1/2 inch ones that make it easier to work with?

I never read on it, but accepted that aluminum being metal would cool the intake charge better than CF, much like an intercooler does. but I also always wondered if the minuscule heat transfer from the CF chambers would keep temps even lower than metal pipes exposed in the engine bay. Is this anecdote in reference at all to metal intakes as well, or is it a strict FG vs CF comparison?

this makes me want to do an RB18 using a CA18 block and RB26 head. *goes to sleep* ....ahhhhhhh

theres a site with a yellow datsun 510 that has a Rotary engine and a jaguar rear end with inboard brakes. check it out on the goog'.

I think it's coming along great. looks like it will be ready in a few short months, and then you'll have to come pick me up for a boot

just to reinforce this scenario, and it's possible outcome. I had my first RB30 sitting on the deck side ontop of the furniture dolly in my room mates previa. someone decided to go around a bus while it made it's routine stop, and press the brakes less than 15 yards infront of us, because he had forgotten that the light was green, and not red. Brakes start screeching, room mate is pumping the brakes so they don't completely lock up, leans on the horn... I can't hear anything. Into my left ear, I hear something rolling and scraping across the plywood floor we made for the previa. Yep... 200+ lbs of iron, with a crank damper coming straight for the back of the seat. In an unlikely (and I say this, cause I was ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ lucky to be walking) event, the dowel on the deck caught a splinter on the plywood, and dug the foot of the transmission bolt hole into the plywood, and swung the engine about 270 degrees into the passenger sliding door, and made a huge hole in the interior door panel. As we rolled away slowly, cussing, swearing, and throwing water bottles outside of the window... I put my fist behind the seat, and I touched the engine block... I then put my fist to the back of the seat to see what protection I had, and I felt my 3 of my 4 knuckles in great detail with my spine, through the back of the seat. We later sold the van that same night for 500 more than he paid for it, and got another previa the day after for the same 200 less than the previous previa! But that doesn't make what we did any less stupid. It just means the guy was desperate to haul his drywall in the thing that he didn't care about the hole that told the story of my still-here-today spine. Passenger seat area with some sturdy strapping sounds like a REALLY good place for it. Just looking out for you guys. I'm sure we all have scenarios similar to this that are common mistakes that we can share to ensure there's an increasing number of Z owners, rather than the inverse.

glad its working again and thanks for sharing that cool vid =)

MetallicA fan, sweet Sounds like a beast. What's the target hp on E85? 1000?

i believe you're missing the silver "Jecs" relay. not sure if you should use a switch for that. I think it's supposed to shut the car off in case of an accident, so the fuel pump doesnt spew gas onto open flames or keep the engine running.

definitely box that in with some small gussets to boot. i like how it looks and how it's coming together. Raff

that puts a lot of things in perspective. glad i ran out of money before attempting to buy another z.

http://jp.youtube.com/watch?v=zoRfGDTLcgA heres a similar video posted, but with a z instead, just to keep this thread afloat

amazing, thanks for sharing.

if the bearings are oversized to accomodate the added clearance, and it's brought back into spec, then it is essentially the same as a standard bearing on an untouched crank/bearing journal, because the clearances are the same. all you're doing is putting metal where the bearing is now, and where the other surfaces used to be, making up for the added space that would be there otherwise. at least that's the way i see it. Perhaps the thicker bearings will lend to some bottom end strength too. if it's assembled as well as machined properly, the scoring shouldn't be an issue.

I got my RB30 on a furniture dolly exactly like that one right now

i think one of the mods can move this thread to the proper place, but anyhow, you're better off getting some things together from both cars if you're serious. being cars from the same chassis, you would have more targetted info going to xenon's, az-bum's, or any other Z31 focused websites. For the z31 being one of the least sought after/purchased z's (is what i've been hearing, even though I own one and love it so far.), they seem to have the most information available on websites. I believe because the information is pretty close to where the car is cheap enough to mod, and a very good base, compared to what today's sport compact cars and z cars cost. but EITHER WAY, you should at least make a build up thread in the members rides section, or the v6 nissan section, and report your findings and exercises you've taken to make it work