Careless

If it is the alternator, I read somewhere that the 90 amp Maxima alternator of the same year should fit and provide more juice. I read that because I also just got a 1987 Turbo.

i think the latching mechanism plays an important role in the use of the harness. some harnesses can't be released when there is tension on the straps, and therefore in the case of a roll-over, cannot be undone unless you are lifted somehow (in a tight, crushed, cramped space... good luck), to relieve the tension. Best thing to do is call the local police department and speak to someone who deals with most cases in the matter.

gaaaaaaht dannnnnngit! you did it!

Wolf EMS - "bitch slappin' dem' haters since nineteen-ninety-awesome" And now I'd like to cover one of Paul Ruschmanns songs without his permission just for this occassion: BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPPPPP, BRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPPAPAPAPAPA.

there might be some crank collars available soon. I gave one to a fellow member to make copies of whenever he has the time. So if all goes well with his copy, you may be able to purchase one at a good price (not the 225 dollars JUN wants for theirs since they are "discontinued" or not available anymore). I got mine off ebay for a fairly good price.

so what turbo setup do you have planned for this? are you using all of austin's old goodies ?

which chapter was that in? I read the book twice and didn't see any L28 references.

i personally went to showcars to get those flares, and he gave me flares that were not even the same. I regret paying the near 200 I did for this shitty set of flares, but whatever. Anyway, If they're the ones I'm thinking, and they're fibreglass... they are MSA's that he had to modify to fit.

Really? I thought they were the now discontinued MSA IMSA flares (non wide-body style).

wow jerry, that's pretty sweet. where do I go about getting one of those?

not too bad for crush bending.

mine too.

yeah that's what i meant, as opposed to 12. LOL

"Blame it on zee Germans."

yeah i said the same thing when I looked at it. quite a bit. I think the cusco has 16? pretty tight stuff. This is from the Japanese Nissan Hard body (D21) FAST index.

here's what I got for you: Here are the corresponding part numbers.

the one on the right (polished one) seems to be a tad smaller in size, but looks like it has a larger compressor wheel. but maybe it's just the angle of the photos because it would be way too hard to tell from where i'm sitting.

hahahaha. someone's been following my posting methodology. never stick things in the flywheel hole and always keep it covered.

Yeah, I guess you and I are in the same boat. I've yet to actually try and tune a set of carbs the proper way, with some metering utensils, and some replacement parts that change the operation of the fuel system. EFI is easier, and cost aside, better.

early VG's and T's use FS5W17C, so they should be bell-housing swappable. Either way, you could just get one of them from the vg series engine and put it in.

The installs differ and there have been a variety of install methods, and suppliers too. It's hard to judge certain things and hoping it will work right. I think you should follow "getoffmyinternet" with his thread. So far it's pretty thorough, and it's a good indication of what's involved, and what you'll probably go through. I think it would be too hard to buy everything and do it right away. You'd have to play it by eye, then by ear once you get the engine in there. 3500 - 4500 for an RB with a RB25DET Transmission is the norm. But you could find better prices. But sometimes those engines are a worn out like an old leather shoe...

NY isn't that far. try this: http://toronto.craigslist.ca/tor/pts/508662461.html

In that case, I'm willing to bet it's the AFM contact points being sticky. I can't remember how many contacts there are but I think there's one for no-load, load, and wide-open throttle. It says there are no serviceable parts inside, but you can open it and clean out the 30 year old die-electric grease and put a new packet in there (you can buy small packets of the grease at any place that sells bulbs for exterior car lighting). Chances are it's taking a bit of effort to fully release the contact so it snaps out of the "load" contact point. It could also be that your idle set screw is set to idle too high, but you have a vacuum leak that causes it to keep a high idle until the vacuum dies down again due to the leak. But I think the contacts would be the one to worry about. My advice would be to buy another one and test before you open the one you need in order to drive the car.

hey mtcookson, is the R200 from the Z32 swappable into a 87 Z31 at all? 4.08 sounds like it'd be one hell of a final drive

Holy $hit. looks like the red car was in the wrong lane too. protruding bones? nasty Had it not been a volvo, that could have been much worse.