Lewis Maudlin

I ran the blue on my sbc conversion. After a while I started running out of gas with a full tank and getting hesitation. As it turned out, the electric fan, stereo, thumping amp and fuel pump were more than the High output alternator could handle. I had to go with the Powermaster 140 amp alternator. Sounds like a similar problem to me. Oh BTW after other trouble, I switched to a Carter fuel pump and had no more problems.

Does anyone have any experience with the various standalone systems??? Which one is easiest and works best. I am leaning toward the A'PEXi since it seems easiest to use and is cheapest but many people complain it does not have enough features.

I thought a standalone would work better? Aren't they programmable? I have no experience with fuel management so I am relying on you guys. I am considering a Z32 MAF and 550 injectors so I think a standalone will be necessary. I may also change the turbo or this or that and don't want to continue sending my ECU out for adjustments which may or may not be correct.

OK, I am driving and learning about my SR20DET. It looks like a standalone is next. I will worry about a bigger turbo and MAF and injectors later. Which standalone is best for an SR20DET? When I try to research, everyone has bad things to say about each one. Most people complain that the A'PEXi does not have enough options since it is programmable with the Power FC. I have a laptop so that is not an issue. Anyone using standalone? Does anyone have any experience with various standalones? ALEX??? ANYONE???

I think if you have to ask whether you should sell it, you should sell it for whatever you can get. Yes, I think a nice rust free first gen with an SR20DET should be worth $10-12k.

So what you are saying is that if I want to upgrade at all, it will be best to go standalone then turbo then MAF and injectors. $1000 standalone and $1000 turbo. $2500 before I see a return... Oh well, I guess I will just keep driving. BTW, which standalone is the most cost effective? I would like plug and play with laptop or other control.

Oh, please remember that reliability and cruising mpg are concerns since this is my daily driver of 70 miles a day.

What are the cons of bigger injectors and MAF? Cost... about $1000? Injectors, MAF and reprogramming. MPG??? Isn't this going to cut my mpg significantly? i have trouble keeping my foot out of the accelerator. Reprogramming...I have a Mine's VX Rom ECU and a stock ECU. I guess I could just have the stock ECU reprogrammed. If I do change, am I correct in understanding that I can turn out 350rwhp at<15psi. Will I need a bigger turbo? Got a T25 now.

I was under the impression that I could reduce lag by going to a BB turbo and possibly to one with ceramic. Maybe I was mistaken.

Don't get me wrong. The lag isn't bad. I am just a perfectionist and would like to upgrade the turbo. Bigger, faster spooling, etc. The T25 in my car probably maxes out at 13-15psi. I may want to experiment later. So, if I am considering upgrading, I might as well go with the best one for now.

I need to dyno mine. I am hoping I am pushing close to 275whp at 15 psi. I have a red top SR20DET ported and polished aftermarket intake manifold exhaust manifold with down tube Walbro fuel pump 3" mandrel bent exhaust going to Megan 3" inlet 4" outlet muffler (silencer removed) Electric fan Mine's VX ROM ECU ACT HDSS clutch My set up is similar to Projectrb240sx who claimed to have dyno'ed in the 250-275 rwhp range. The actual only difference I think I have may be the bigger exhaust and the Mine's VX ROM ECU. It feels like 250-275rwhp.

OK, been driving my SR20DET powered 280z around. I am interested in upgrading the turbo to reduce lag. It would be nice if it was faster spooling. I do not want to upgrade the injectors and MAF yet since I am afraid I will lose MPG's. Any suggestion on a nice driveable turbo that will reduce lag and increase power? Also, when I watch my boost gauge, my boost spikes to 16 or 17 psi for a second or two before it drops to the 13 psi I am running. Should I be concerned about detonation? Is this just a gauge anomaly? If it is a problem, what can I do to fix it? I am running T25, cheapo aftermarket boost controller, greddy bov, ported polished intake and exhaust.

I have one in my 280Z. It has a little low end. It does not have the linear acceleration of a V-8. In other words, it might not work for off roading. My SR20DET works kinda like the cars on the fast and the furious. When it starts to boost, it has tons of almost uncontrollable power. For instance, I can start from a stand still, accelerate gently, then mash the gas down so that it fully boosts (15psi) and it will turn the tires while already rolling. This might be difficult to drive if you off road.

I had the same radiator in my 355 sbc. It is the biggest most efficient radiator you can buy. Flows almost 50% more than 1" tubes. I assume that you meant 1.25" tubes x 2. The only concern I saw was that solid mounting an aluminum radiator is a recipe for disaster. Yes, this is done on race cars, but those radiators are replaced frequently. On a street car over more miles, the welds will break in the aluminum radiator is not rubber mounted. The constant twisting and pulling will shred those welds.

Didn't it look like he could have caught the car if he ran. I think technically, that was a fast walk. A fast walk always has one foot on the ground. A run sometimes has both feet off the ground. I would probably reprimand him for the brake problem and for failing to run after the car to stop it. If he ran, he would have caught it.

My last conversion was a SBC w/about 400 hp at the crank and a 700R4 tranny, 3.54 rear end. I got about 12 mpg with the way I drive. Read as foot always in the gas. My new conversion is an SR20DET, 5 spd, 3.54 rear end. Running 15 psi of boost with my foot always in the gas, I get 24 mpg. I think I would see 30 if I dropped the boost and accelerated gracefully from a stop. I am very happy with the SR20DET. It is a wonderful daily driver and should run a 12 second quarter. I have to get it dynoed soon, but it should have 275-285 hp at the wheels.

I need to know what dipstick from Nissan might fit the SR20DET. My motorswap came with a defective starter, no mounting bracket and no dipstick. I fixed the other two items. I found an OEM SR20DET dipstick and it was $39.95. My buddy got a dipstick for a sentra from a Nissan dealer delivered to his car lot for $1.99 the other day. They are probably the same. I would rather pay $1.99. Anyone know what fits or the length of the dipstick from point A to point B?

I am in Southern Indiana. I am actually in Bedford nowadays. Near Bloomington, Indiana. I am waiting to take pictures of my car outside of my garage. The weather has been bad. I will have pics up in a couple of days. I think I have one of the cleanest SR20DET installs. Now I just have to deal with the interior. Thinking about Corbeau seats.

Finally got my SR20DET powered 280Z running. It runs and screams. It is a lot more fun than my sbc conversion I had. I am currently running 13 psi of boost. I ended up with the following: SR20DET S13 Redtop Exhaust manifold Dump Tube Huge Front Mount Intercooler Generic aftermarket intake manifold ported and polished 3" mandrel bent exhaust Megan Racing Muffler 3" inlet 4" outlet Autometer gauges Boost controller MINES VX-ROM ecu ACT HDSS clutch Jags that run aluminum and plastic radiator Taurus 2 speed electric fan T25 turbo - the T28 I bought off of ebay was junk and the bearings went out after 10 minutes of use Vildini engine cradle The car is just what I had in mind. A 12 second daily driver that can get 30 mpg if I ever turn the boost down a little. The car is light and agile.

I just got my SR20DET 280Z running today. While driving nearby, two kids in a hopped up Honda Prelude came up and were looking fun. BTW for those listening in, we were going under the speed limit and accelerated up to 60 mph which was the speed limit. That having been said, I motioned for the kids to take off in the Prelude 3 times and 3 times, after they got a head start, I took off and passed them in a matter of seconds. After the third time, they pulled up and said, "What the hell is that?? It's fast". I told them that it just an ol' Datsun. Unfortunately, after I went home and switched to my truck, I ran across a 911 on the same road. It would have made a much better story.

I bought a new Boost/Vac gauge from Autometer. For some reason, it reads 10psi of vac at rest. So, I thought the meter was just defective. So here is the weird thing. At idle, the meter reads 20 psi of vacuum. This is what the meter should read at idle if it reads correctly. Anyone know if my meter is broke or not? I would like to figure this out since I am firing up the turbo tomorrow.

I have been shopping for a car for my wife. I think she likes the FX vehicles from infiniti. We drove all the other SUV's and the only other one that she liked was the BMW. I am thinking about buying her a used FX35 or FX45. Has anyone heard anything good or bad about these vehicles? Is either one much better than the other? I think the only difference is the engine size.

For a few years I switched from Datsun to Harley. After I crashed my Harley and got a metal plate in my head, I had double vision from time to time. Especially when the plate would bow and push on my eye. If you get the contrast scan remember that 1 in 10,000 die from the dye. That doesn't sound like that many, but when I think about the fact that I bought a lottery ticket where I have a 1 in 100,000,000 chance, I think it is 10,000 times more likely that a contrast scan can kill you than it is that you win the lottery. Also, make sure that they do a complete scan. The first can scan I had did not reveal that I had completely blown out a bone in my head. Long and short is that anything around the eye could cause the double vision.

Got it fixed. Tracked down a new wiring schematic. Had wrong 12+ hooked up.

As a Prosecutor who handles traffic, my suggestion is to give the prosecutor's office a call. In your state that may be some different agency, but contact the people who will argue against you at court. If necessary, ask to make an appointment and go see them. They may be a little difficult to deal with as many have mentioned, but they have heard every conceivable excuse. Rather than argue the matter, they may agree to reduce the ticket. A ticket is a ticket to them. To your insurance company, 90 is a whole lot more than 80. Translate that as $$$ to $$. You may find that a polite attitude and a simple request will get you somewhere once you get through to the correct people. If you can get through to the right people.