Tim240z

Bah, that's 6 years away...unless our budget crisis expedites the process. Thanks for the cautionary info, Tim. Heavy, According to the News report last night, it's in effect as of RIGHT NOW

Alex, This will subject ANY car from 1966 on to the roadside test. A gross polluter will be a gross polluter regardless of the year. Plus, if you don't have your conversion 'Certified' you will automatically be screwed. Also, If the car has no bumpers, marker lights, or if the windows are too darkly tinted, etc ,etc....screwed.... Better brush up on your knowledge of the CA Vehicle Code fellas!!

Roadside testing...not only for emissions, but safety equipment and CA Vehicle Code violations too!! This completely F'ing sucks!!! F'in California! http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d02/vc2814.htm http://www.ljworld.com/section/environment/story/149910 There was also a news segment on it this evening on NBC Channel 4 News. [rant is only just beginning]

Thanks Guy, but I was looking for something OEM that I could pick up cheap used. If there is no option there, then I will convert my spare LT1 intake. Tim

You just need to find a catch tank that has the outlet from the radiator neck to go to the bottom of the catch tank....that way when the car is hot and it spews out some coolant, it will go into the tank, then it can suck water back instead of air. I am using this one on my V8 Z: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CSI%2D930P

I won't go into the whole story...I've done it too many times, but I use Falkens EXCLUSIVELY....you can't go wrong. Both my Z and my Z28 are running Falkens, and my wife's Volvo.

I have a set of 16 x 8 s all around and the rears clear my COILOVERS by about 1/4 inch, also with 5" back space. Best thing to do is to put a straight edge on your hub, measure 11 inches up from center and then see how much room you have to your strut. With 215s on that 8" rim, the rim will be the widest point, not the tire. I am running 245/45 -16s all around. Tim

I've welded on tanks before by draining it completely, then hooking it up to the exhaust of another car and running exhaust gas through it for about 10 minutes. That should neutralize all the vapors. If you're really paranoid, rinse it with diesel, then with degreaser.

Bryan, Yes, you fill it while cold, with the engine running. As soon as it starts heating up, the coolant will start overflowing by itself, so work fairly quickly. If at recheck, it's low, then just top it up with the engine off. Best bet is to get a recirculating catch tank. That soves many of these air problems. Tim

Are there any oem intakes for the 5.7 Vortec heads that are port injection (not throttlebody injection)? I want to convert my truck (71 Cheyenne 20) to FI using MS, and take off the edelbrock and holley 750DP. It looks like all the vortec trucks are TB injection? Thanks

Park the car on as steep of a hill as possible (pointing uphill), or jack up the front of the car. This is to make sure that the radiator filler is the highest point of the cooling system. Fill it until it overflows (with the engine running), then replace the cap. Get it hot enough to open the thermostat. Now let it cool completely. Cold...like overnight. Then recheck using the same method as above. If the radiator is full at recheck, then you're good.. Tim

Have you purged all the air out of the cooling system since refilling it?

Sorry, can't give you any Texas specific info, but a universal requirement for used car dealers is: No Conscience

ha ha ha...Geos don't accellerate....they merely gather speed....

Terry...great idea!! Be sure to include Owen's Craftsman welder meets 10lb sledge!!

Hey, that's pretty cool!! This morning I went for a spin on the ZX-7 (took the day off work). Pulled up at a red light (1st one there), and next to me pulls up a black AMG SLK55. So I look over and it's Coach Phil Jackson (who lives in the next neighborhood over) of the LA Lakers. I waved "Hi" and he smiled and waved back BTW...on green light, I smoked him Tim

Well I think I've found the source of my Low RPM/High Load stumble with the 'goose! I think that I may have found the problem...at least a contributing factor: I have just pulled the intake, water pump and Opti. I pulled the opti apart and found lots of arcing signs inside and lots of corrosion and signs of arcing in most of the plug wire 'ports', and actually the coil wire 'port' was so bad that the top of the 'tower' had actually begun to melt. All of the inside terminals were corroded and signs of moisture everywhere. I am going to put everything together now and see what happens. BTW, I know most folks on CamaroZ28.com 'rave' about Jason Cromer, but my first order of parts from him was less than ideal! I ordered a coil, coil module, intake gasket set, and opti. The package was packed so poorly that the coil wire terminal on the coil was broken when it arrived. There was no module in the box. Very disappointing! Just an extra 30 seconds to ensure that all the parts were secure in the box and all would have been good! Oh well....he's overnighting the coil and module to me....I just hope that he doesn't charge me shipping again! Tim

Every time I've had a radiator cleaned/flushed and pressure tested at a shop, it's cost me ~$25 or so. Worth doing on a used radiator, regardless of the cosmetic condition. Tim

Jon.....I agree, but if you look closer: Election year, and Bush's most staunch supporters are the far right Bible Belt conservatives..... The Head of the FCC was appointed by......

Good luck...the FCC are a bunch of appointed bureaucrats at the whim of the far right republican party (Bush). They aren't part of any government agency, and their 'rules' have no foudation in any laws..... Tim

I've NEVER used a torque wrench on an intake and never had a problem. I usually use a ring wrench and use another ring on the open side of the first wrench for a bit of extra leverage, just for extra insurance. As long as they are all tight, and all tight about the same amount, you'll be fine. Tim

You ought to just run a nice new #2 wire straight to the battery. I don't have any of the OEM harness left, sorry can't help there. Tim

Hey Dan...maybe you need to put your old signature back Tim

Yup...'BOUT TIME!! Looking good! How about some front on shots!! That's just teasing....been hanging out with Juday again, or something? Tim

If you slot the mounts at the crossmember (per JTR), that's about as far back as you can go without getting into other problems, like bellhousing touching firewall, and shifter too far back. Tim