Tim240z

I downloaded Mozilla and now have no problems at all.

You would be better off finding a 95 out of Vette or F-body, or a 94. Tim

I'm getting logged out regularly too! VERY FRUSTRATING!!

I agree that a ebay type feedback system would be great!! There are good and some bad sellers and buyers on the board. Dan, you listening?

Al, If you ever make it down to the SoCal region, let me know....I would be happy to come out and support you guys, and I'm sure some of the other SoCal guys would too!! Tim

You can't reassemble it. Buy a new one, and buy these tools: Installer tool: Remover tool: Tim

My money is on a RX7 with a GN Turbo.....

Eric, I've been looking for silicone Intake hose, and found a lot of that stuff.... Search on Google using "Silicone Tube" as the search words. Tim

I only have 4 words for you: 1. Talk 2. To 3. John 4. Coffey Tim

A Huge thanks to John for hosting the SoCal Chapter of HybridZ gathering!! And the welding tutorial was very informative and eye opening!! You are da man!! And as for letting me practice TIG welding with your machine!!!! That was GREAT!!! Bravo Ol' Chap!! And Rick Johnson gave a very nice and interesting presentation of the method for tracing the different vibrations in a car!!! Excellent stuff, from a true gentleman!!! And as for you guys who claimed they would come, but didn't show....shame on y'all!! :malebitchslap: Tim

Mat... I think the previous thread was how many engines? I have: 73 240Z (LT1/T56) 94 Z28 (same drive train as above) 96 Volvo 850 71 Chevy Cheyenne 20 truck and now 93 Kawasaki ZX-7 Tim

Easiest thing to do would be to sand the chips in the paint so that the chip is feathered on the edges. If you use a high build primer (filler primer), then you won't notice them. It also depends on the color of the final paint. Dark colors like Black, will show even the very slightest imperfection. If this is your first paint job, I would recommend white. It is very good at hiding even fairly significant imperfections. Tim

For informational purposes: There has been a few guys that have contacted me regarding the Speedway Shafts for the R230 conversion. I would need to get a few (maybe 4-6 sets) together as an order for Speedway to setup their tooling to make a run (they are in their busy season, making Nascar and Winston Cup stuff). PM me with your order (please be certain that you actually want them). It usually takes a couple of weeks to turn them around (order, cut and spline, heat treat, and polishing). The price again is ~$165 each (2 needed) plus shipping for the shafts only. If you want a complete setup, the following pricing applies: -- Shafts: $330 / pair -- CV joints: $300 / 4 (in order to get complete axles 2 pairs of Q45 axles are required) -- CV to Companion Flange adapters: $320 -- Assembly of shafts: $20 (just to cover cleaning supplies and new grease) So total price for completely assembled axles, ready to bolt in: $970 Again, here is the assembly instructions for the shafts: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=30930

Can you ask some specifics? I work in the air quality (and other areas) in California. Now although the air quality issues are more extensive out here, and South Coast AQMD has it's own system of credits (RECLAIM), it may be helpfull. Without specifics, I could spend 3 hours typing...... Tim

Put a big ring wrench on one of the studs at the top of the strut 'cap' and use one of the other studs to hold the cap steady. Put it on the ground (lay the strut assembly down and have the wrench resting on the ground). Then put a socket on the strut nut and stand on the wrench and use your other foot to press down on the powerbar (which is obviously connected to the socket and nut). That should do it!!

Dan, Check this out!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2464733358&category=6129 BTW the 635CSI will always be near and dear to me.....my Dad taught me to drive in his one back when I was ~10. Tim

Magazines (on any topic) are basically just product catalogues with some text thrown in for good measure. There are some good mags out there, but they are very few and far between!!! Have you seenhow many pages of adverts you have to flip through in some of these female mags like Cosmopolitan etc, just to ge to the table of contents .....I tsk everytime I see my wife reading them

When I first tried to fire my LT1 when I finally got all teh wiring etc finished (it had been sitting for a couple of years by this point, between me and the wrecked Z28), it would not run on all 8 cylinders (running on 5 or so). What I did was (with the car running) tap on the injectors with the handle of a screwdriver. Worked like a charm, and I haven't had a problem since.

Just for informational purposes: I replaced all the window channel seal 'fuzz' on the driver and passenger sides of the 240Z. I got the rubber window channel from JC Whitney. Part number:18ZX4873W http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&langId=-1&productId=170759&mediaCode=ZX&appId=505154 Style 20, All Rubber Window Channel, A=7/16", B=1/2", C=3/16" to 7/32", D=1/2", Overall Length 8 ft. One is not enough to do both sides. You'll have to order two, and will have about 3/4 of the second one left over. Tim

When you get the short block, just check all the clearances (plastiguage the bearings). Tim

Used to what...seeing it parked in utter fear!!!!

635 CSI, If I'm not mistaken?

Dream on homey

So THAT'S the POS!!