Tim240z

What State are you in? In CA even though the car may be exempt from testing, it's not exempt from emissions control equipment.

Look at Scat's website for cranks and kits. http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/

That Dodge guy is probably all over the Ram boards telling everyone how he 'spanked' a C5 with his Hemi! Shame on you Mike....

Find a tire shop that has a tire skimmer. Many racers who have to run street tires have their tires skimmed down to the minimum tread depth. Tim

Maybe in America......back home we don't 'give them the opportunity'. Tim

Consider the coverage and think about your question?

Hmmmm, I have the rubber gaskets and they were just right, but they are 'old' now. Usually the gasket will sit in the valve cover and be held by the 'tabs' or recess inteh cover. If you have aftermarket covers, then maybe they don't have the little tabs? Try sticking the gaskets in the oven and warm them up a bit? Tim

I say V8 because for the HP and ease and price of getting parts is #1, second to none! IF you put those criteria together, then the answer is obvious, Bryan. Just because most V8 swaps take years, that is not a rule to go by. I bet if you look at what took so long, it was not the conversion, but rather bodywork, interior, brake upgrades blah blah blah. I would bet you good money that a V8 swap can be completed in less than 1 month!! As for your diff question XTC, you have several options: R200 from a later model (280 or 300) Upgrade to the ZXT CV joints or R230 diff from a Q45 with axle (CV) conversion. This one will take anything that you can throw at it! and is LSD to boot. Tim

You can still search manually!!!! Now,now...don't be lazy!!

Nothing Z specific, but there are universal harness from places like "Painless" etc, but in my opinion they are overpriced and not all that painless....Just get some wire, a fuse block and a bunch of relays and rewire it yourself. It's not that hard to do, just takes patience and time. Here is what I did: Get yourself a catalogue from waytekwire.com. Tim

Here is the info, thanks to zguy93135 for sending it to me!! http://www.cnn.com/WORLD/africa/9812/11/flame.thrower.car/ Tim

I just received my quote in the mail from J.C. Taylor, Modified Automobile Insurance Company, 320 South 69th Street, Upper Darby, PA (877)468-7637. For $20,000 in coverage, with a $250 deductible, it will be $408 per year (est). I got this quote in the mail today just to see how it compares with my agent's quote. All you do is phone them, go through the phone mail questionaire, and you get a quote in the mail. This company, which is owned by the same parent company as Farmers Ins. was highly recommended by my agent, who has also my Wife's parent's agent for decades...... I am staying with my Agent (Farmers) just because he is local and ALL my other policies are with him. Just FYI, guys.... Tim

It would be if it wasn't necessary!

Yup, my $$$ would be on loose head bolts. If you did not retorque the head bolts, then the heating and cooling cycles of the engine would lose the torque on the bolts. Since you ran for a month or so with no problems, I would guess that there are no cracks, unless one just appeared, but if you 'missed' the crack during inspection at rebuild time, the problem would have most likely shown itself earlier. I would pull and replace the head gasket (check for obvious signs of blowthrough). Then remember to retorque after a few hundred miles.

V8!

If you're going to forced induction, you should get some forged pistons and rods anyway. Then the chamber size is of lesser importance. Just get pistons to suit. Tim

Nah Mike, no aftermarket harness....IMHO, those are a complete and utter waste of $$$$. After rewiring my Z (240), it's so easy that I can see how these places selling aftermarket harness are just making $$$ hand over fist!!! Yeah, for a 20c resistor, it's definitely worth a shot!!

Coming from place where car jacking is common place, anti hijack devices are standard equipment from the factory! That includes flame throwers installed in the rocker panels of the driver's side as a factory option on BMWs!! (no shite! )

The problem with making the car hard to get in to is that the thief will then break the window, or door lock to gain access. Make it easy to get into, then hard to steal. At least that way you have more chance of finding your Z in one piece in your driveway!!

Mike, I have completely eliminated the solenoid from the T56 in the 240Z, but I'm wondering if it's pissing off the PCM? I've found the car surging when shifting to 2nd, and it doesn't clear up for 30 seconds or so...almost like it's running low on fuel. But then it clears up and pulls like a freight train!! I also have a 94 Z28 and that skip shift really gets annoying!!! It forces me to RPM it from 1st to 2nd!! Oh well....I do it anyways!!! But the Mongoose's surging is a bit annoying. I just want to eliminate the CAGS as a possibility. IT has all new plugs and MSD 8.5mm wires. I hope it's not the opti!! Although I doubt it as it clears up nicely and then pulls hard under load! I can break the tires loose at will, in any gear up to 5th!! Tim

Good info Norm. I guess you could go through the speed trap in 4th. Since that's a straight through (1:1) ratio, you could simplify your equation. I know that at idle, my Autometer Tach is off by 100rpm. I can see what the PCM is seeing (LT1) via the laptop. I haven't checked the upper ranges yet, but I'm pretty certain that all gauges are slightly off at the very bottom of their ranges? Tim

Thanks Spencer!! U DA MAN!!

I know all that is needed is a resistor to mimick the solenoid. Does anyone know the resistor value. I have a bag full of resistors left over from the MegaSquirt build and hate to have to buy a skip shift eliminator if it's as simple as a resistor? Anyone?

Buy the parts and stop by.

I concur.....Bowtie Overdrives is a great vendor!!! Tim