Tim240z

Just to reiterate. The calipers were from the front of a jag. I was trying to put them on the front of a Z. I could not find a rotor that had a large enough diameter. The Jag rotor was about an inch larger in diameter than the 82 300ZX rotor that I pulled. The jag rotor was set back too deep, so that once installed on the hub, it would hit the spindle housing before the bearings had seated home. If I could find a disk that had the fit of the 82 300Zx, but was about an inch larger in diameter, that would be great! Tim

Which are the largest rotors that will bolt to a 240-280 front hub? Reason I ask is that I spent a good many hours at the JY today, and got to fitting the front calipers from a Jag on a 280. The Calipers bolt on no problem , but the Jag disk's tophat was too deep. So I looked around for the biggest bolt on type disk I could find, which was from a 82 300Z.So I took off the 280 hub (again!!) and bolted it up, no problem, everything looks ok, but the disk just isn't big enough in diameter. Needs about another 1/2 inch or so to cover the pads. BTW, the Jag calipers are 4 piston, and fairly light. All I need is a bigger disk to have a beautiful bolt on conversion Tim

Danno, this was discussed a little while back, check it out quote I may have a solution, but need to do some checking first. Hopefully will know tomorrow (Friday). Tim

Danno, The sideshafts will use the inner CVs on the outer (bolt on flange), and will use an adapter to mount to the companion. Owen has a picture of this adapter on his site (if its up). I am working on something which may work well, and solve several problems in one shot. I don't want give it away yet, until I see if it works. The ratio in my LSD R230 is 3.56:1 Tim

Pete, I got a Q45 drive shaft and change one side to the hydromatic yolk. Tim

I have some pictures posted already of the complete shafts next to the std R180 ones which will give an idea of their size. Thanks for the info on that Q45, Sopdadope, it's the first time I've seen some real world info on the strength of the Q45 rear. Tim

Yeah, obviously the Vette swap is nice...VERY nice, but I think that it's apples and oranges. The Vette IRS will take a heck of a lot more labor to install, and the amount of cutting and fabbing is extensive ( if the pics of Scottie's are anything to go by). The R230 is 'almost' bolt-in, in comparison. The main driving force which made me do the R230, is the LSD. R200 LSDs are getting more rare, and by now are getting 20 to 30 years old. The Q45 unit I picked up for $280 is LSD and is from a '94 car. Tim

Craig, Just shy of 2.5 inches. The actual core is only about 1 inch. Tim I snapped a couple of pictures quickly. Click on the homepage icon above. The first picture (they are posted right at the end of the list) is a little deceiving, there is about 1/8 inch clearance at the frame rail, about 1/4 inch on the other side, just because of how the side tank is shaped. Hope this helps.

Fairlady, The R230 swap incorporates the Q45 CV half shafts. I believe that they are significantly stronger than the R200 ones?! Tim

I'm sure that the top hats could be changed for 5 lug? Adds to the cost though Tim

Zeezee, I am taking tons of dig. pics. and once the Z is done I will build a web site that will explain everthing I've done (much like many of the other guys here have done, so some of the info will be duplicated). But I will provide indepth tech. discussions on this site and to anyone who cares. Tim

Zeezee, That would be cool to have another option for a rear end, but I think you will be forging new territory. If you go this route, document it well, so others can follow if they want. Have you considered the R230 viscous LSD unit. It has been done (and they are very plentifull) so if you don't want to do all the R&D for the RX7 unit, this is an easy swap. By early next year, or maybe even later this year, I will have all the parts together to offer a bolt in kit for the R230. Tim

Just measured mine: At the widest point its 25 inches wide. At the bottom it narrows a bit to 24.5 inches. The aluminum core part is 21 inches (excl. side tanks). 19 Inches tall. Tim

Omar, Not sure of the exact dimensions, but it fits with about 1/4 inch of clearance on each side frame rail. Tim

The Radiator I used was from a 84 6cyl Camaro. The cowling/radiator/fan support (top) was from the 86 Z28 (V8 - obviously ) Tim

Pete, Hammerite claims that as the coating cures, millions of fibers interlock to create an impervious barrier. Once that stuff cures, the only way to remove it (for welding etc) is to use a grinder!!!! They use this stuff on ocean oil rigs and platforms Tim

I asked John Washington about creating a 1 piece hood/hood scoop (like the post: That hood scoop that was on e-bay...). Here is his reply: It is possible to mold it into a one-piece hood. If I were to make a mold of such an item, however, it would involve the expense of prototype, plus the expense of the mold. Both would be much larger than just the scoop by itself. At a minimum I’d have to charge slightly more than the current price of the Subtle hood I offer which is similar. Its price is $300. I’d say it would be worthwhile to make such a part if I have at least five people interested. What do you think? Anyone interested in gettin a 'group buy' together? Tim

Terry, It is a Mr Gasket product, so most Mr. Gasket outlets or Summit generally has the best price, however, after you factor in the S/H fees, it might not be. Summit's price Or here's Mr. Gaskets page or directly to the DD2000 main page Tim

I have just coated my interior with Hammerite. I have used this before on my Land Rover chassis and it is as tough as 'ol boots' once it has cured (to the point of annoyance if you need to weld on it later), so I am very happy with it's effectiveness on rusty surfaces and it's strength and longevity. I was wondering if anyone has used both and has a comparison. I hessitate to use POR because I have no experience with it (stick with what I KNOW works), and hammerite is more readily available (Home Despot etc). Any opinions? Tim floors painted

JW, What would the possibility be of molding that piece into a 'glass hood as a one piece item? I would Definitely be interested then. I will e-mail you with this question, but am posting here as a question of interest in this type of item for all of you guys here? Would there be enough interest in this to make it worth while guys? Tim

Some 3 inch holes in the firewall will take care of the heat. Don't worry about the head buzz you get from the fumes....think of all the money you'll save on the recreational drugs..Haha... Tim

Tom, I made up a very simple rad mount which bolts to the tow-eyelets' holes in the chassis. Then I used the top mounting/fan mounting from a 86 Z28 to mount the top. Had to trim the plastic a bit on the top mount but very easy and neat. Click on the homepage icon above to see pictures. This also makes using the Z28 electric fan a VERY easy install 'cause the top rad. mount also mounts the fan!! I don't know how well the fan works, but if it's enough to cool the Z28, it should work with the Z. Tim

I posted pics of my home made rotisserie. Click on my home page icon to go to the Yahoo Photos page. If you need any more details, let me know. Tim

Also, I don't think that stock headers can take the heat of a turbo setup. All of the turbo headers I've seen have very thick flanges and much thicker gauge tubing. I think that it would be neat to run water through those headers....keep the bay nice and cool Tim

Dan, I believe that the exhaust are water cooled because the exhausts are, many times, exposed in boats. This would make the accidental skin touches less severe?? Definitely not fact, merely an opinion, but I would think that a quick call to a local boating shop could answer for sure. Tim