Tim240z

OK time to break out the drool BUCKET!!!

All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That is one hellava project. I am not worthy (bow down) I am not worthy (bow down) Tim

Grumpy...You're driving me CRAZZZZZZZZZZZY!!!! All the high HP posts have me constantly mopping up the puddle of drool on the floor in front of me. ....back to reality Tim

Yeah...and I think buying the engine would be the cheapest part. Maintaining it.......hrmmmm Tim

Mike, Sorry no help for your area, but I would call some of the racing guys (esp. boat)in the area and see where they take their work to. These guys have usually already done their homework on who does the best work, so you can usually be pretty confident. This is hard to say but....when it comes to good machine work, don't look at the prices...to pay for good work only hurts once!!! Tim

You'd better be pretty short too! I'm only 5'11" and there isn't that much room above my head. I saw that convertable at the MSA show...what a beaut! Tim

If I remember correctly, you have a fuel pressure gauge?! Are you getting constant fuel pressure? Tim PS...Cool that it has finally fired up after all the probs with the Haltech computer

Pete, It is a guy in Riverside CA. I will scan an order/spec form and e-mail to you (prob only Wed). I made a gear shifter mounting bracket (for the Z28 stock auto shifter) out of Al this weekend using the rods and a bottle of MAPP gas (from Home Depot). Works really well!!! At this point I'm just looking for things to make out of Al just so I can weld it!! Tim

Here is the picture of Phil's rims...hope you don't mind me pugging it in here Phil

Sounds like the carb is running way too lean on the primaries. Rebuild or replace?! Tim

The CV shafts from the Q45 (R230) are very similar to the Porsche units (same spline etc) and there was a post about some very high HP Q45s using the standard rear setup without issues. These alco hava bolt up flange which are very easy to adapt to the stock Datsun hubs. Tim

The CV shafts from the Q45 (R230) are very similar to the Porsche units (same spline etc) and there was a post about some very high HP Q45s using the standard rear setup without issues. These alco hava bolt up flange which are very easy to adapt to the stock Datsun hubs. Tim

Is there a thermostatic type valve which could preclude the flow of trans fluid to the trans cooler until the temp reaches the correct level? I was just thinking that if I run a large cooler and the weather is cold the trans oil temp might not ever get up to temp. Thanks, Tim

Why not drop in a JY turbo motor? Tim

James, If you don't own a timing light, then just loosen the distributor and keep playing with it until the RPMs are the highest they will go. This will at least get you in the right direction. But from your original post, it seems that it's running too lean. Make sure that your idle jets aren't clogged with varnish or gunk. Pull off the top of the carb and take them out and clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. Also, if they were originally set up for a 240, they will be lean on the 280, but not badly enough to prevent running. Tim

Wow...I want one BADDDDDD. I wonder if GM will consider doing some real life testing in a Z (mine of course) Tim

OOOOHH, I like 'em. How much? Tim

I have a COMPLETE set of drums/shoes for the rear of a 280Z from my disk conversion. Tim

Dude, Album's empty.

Jack, As long as you aren't going to RPM the heck out of the motor, the stock cast crank and rods will live forever at 6000rpm and less. Just make sure that what you start with is in good shape. Also 10:1 compression with aluminum heads will be OK with premium pump gas. If the heads are iron, that might be pushing it a bit, but should be OK, depends on the cam. Others here will probably be able to give more specifics, but here's a first stab. Tim

The way I always do it is to jack on the diff, and put the stands on the rear chassis, just next to the place where the mounting points for the rear sway bar are. (kinda in line with the front of the diff.). Hope that helps, Tim

Also found this one which is electric. Also a little pricey though: web page Also Speedway Engineering has an electric setup, but no prices on their website. That should be enough to get you started. Tim

James, I don't remember the numbers, but when I replaced the ones in my 73, I used the little electronic reference pad at Pep Boys which gave me the part numbers. I bought those part numbers and they worked great. I think most parts places and most high volume discount stores (K-Mart, Wallmart etc) have the little electronic lookup pads. Hope this helps, Tim

I've spoken to numerous people who have used the 400 for racing and street applications with no problems at all. The reason for the 400s bad reputation stemmed from guys who used aftermarket heads without drilling the steam holes, or improperly drilling the steam holes in the heads. There are also some plumbing solutions to stave off any overheating issues (by drlling into the water jackets between the middle cylinders and running to the water pump), but think about all the vehicles that ran for years and years from the factory with no problems. If the 400 was as bad as people make it seem, would it be such a popular torque monster? Just my 2c worth. Tim

My 2c worth....Go throught he hassle of scraping off all of the undercoating from the floors and chassis rails and the inside under the seats/carpets. I too thought my floors were 'cherry' until I did the removal of the crud and coating, and you've seen what I had to replace. Remember how old these cars are and how damn thin the sheetmetal is. If nothing else, this exercise will give you piece of mind, and drop about 10lbs of 'crap' from the underside of the car. Tim