Tim240z

good nuff That looks fantastic so far.....If you need any specific help....drop me a line. If you want I'll put something together on the R230 rear install? Tim

Could you put a link to the FAQ page on your Homepage paleez?, Jeromio. Thanks, Tim

Since I am running an autobox, can I get away with not running a handbrake? Is the Park of the Auto strong/reliable enough? Thanks, Tim

ZYA, I spoke to a TSW dealer and they listed several of their style with the 114.3/4 pattern. Did you speak to TSW themsleves or a tireshop? I will probably just get mine from South Africa, since that is where Tiger Wheels originated. Tim

Since we are on the subject, here is a good conversion shareware app, for you guys who refuse to change to the metric system haha Conversion buddy Also here's a nice search engine (searches all other search engines) Copernic 2001 Tim

'cause I'm a bloody selfish bastard JK...well sort of... I will post them on my yahoo pictures site this afternoon. It is linked to my homepage icon (up there). Tim

I think the cost/effort factor for the gains would be unbalanced. If you wanted to lighten things, I would be more comfortable with drilling some holes in the steel setback plates rather than go Al. With the vibrations and heating and cooling I'm not sure if the Al would hold up, but I'm not a metallurgist either. Tim

I'll email you some pictures this afternoon.

I don't really like the JTR design anyway, which is why I made mine to attach to the tunnel intead of the floor. I would imagine that the one I made is also significantly lighter the hunk of steel which JTR sells, and I think that the adjustabilty is better for driveshaft angle. I think that making one similar to the JTR one, but out of rectangular Al tubing would be better than the JTR one, but then you would need to be able to weld alley, or be able to bend the tubing.IMHO. Tim

Obviously, since I started this whole damned thing, I am willing to do whatever I can.....Someone needs to take the lead though and coordinate the efforts, otherwise we might end up pulling in different directions. Super Dan, that should probably be you, since you have the most ownership of the site. Hopefully it won't be too much effort on your part...sorry if this suggestion comes off as a bit forward...please keep in mind it's only a suggestion and in no way meant to be........ Tim

Wagz, I just winged it on the rotis. No plans or anything. It will be adequate if the car is completely stripped. If you have suspension etc still installed, you would need to beef it up. I can send you some pictures of it if you want to copy it. Tim

Wagz, IMO, you will probably end up doing a LOT of welding during your project, so my advice is to learn first. Welding is not rocket science, more an art than anything else. With some practice and basic knowledge (plenty of good & fairly short books around) you will be welding like a pro in no time. Practice is the key. Once your confidence is there, you'll have no problems. By the time you pay someone else to do it......$$$$$. The sub frame connectors are easy to do, and if your floors are in good shape....all the easier. I had to replace my floors when I did my SFCs. PITA, but easily done. Check out my pics if you haven't already, and put the car on a rotisserie...welding much easier that way. I built up my rotisserie in a couple of hours with about 15 bucks worth of steel. Good luck.... Tim

Dude, cut it in half and measure it..JK Can anyone say which wall thickness would be adequate, without being overly heavy? Thanks, Tim

Hey Owen, What's the wall thickness of your strut brace tube??

Project-Z, I did the complete rear disk conversion W/ JY parts for about $50.00. I will probably need to get new rotors, and don't know yet if the calipers are 100% functional, but it's a start, and that price included complete hub/strut/spring units from 280Z, which I got 'cause the stub axles are stronger than than the 240Z units. You can see the components used here. Although the drum brakes are probably more than adequate, I hate having to adjust them and changing brake shoes are a PITA, plus, it looks better having disks at all 4 corners. Tim

Charles Atlas!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Dang Terry, you're showing your age Tim

Grumpy, From what I have read, the Vortecs flow better than the edelbrocks.....where am I losing HP? I believe that the upgraded valvetrain on the Vortecs can handle up to .600 lift (I'll have to phone Scoggin Dicky to confirm). I will be building up a 400 after the car has been running a while, but I want this motor to work a bit better than 350 hp or so !!! Thanks guys for the number crunching....much appreciated. Tim

When I did mine last weekend, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I had to do a lot of fabbing....I used the core of a paper towel roll to get the angles right, then I just cut it long ways and wrapped it around the tubing and transfered the template with a marker and cut...worked really well, but start saving your paper towel rolls NOW!!! Cheapest way I could think of, and the transfer is 100% accurate. Tim

Grumpy, Great info....you are very kind.....Those sites are very informative too....again many thanks.... Tim

Did you guys see the complete LT4 crate engine for sale: for $6grand Complete LT4 production engine (still in GM crate) Pictures available via e-mail $6,000.00 + shipping from Utah

I've driven a Cobra Kit car with a 454 and squirt bottle, with the Jag rearend. Even with the 285mm wide rear tyres, that thing would break loose at 1/2 throttle. Handled pretty nicely, but the power oversteer was a little intimidating. I was seriously thinking of going this route w/ the Z, and might still do it....these units are a dime a dozen in the JYs. The pads are a major PITA to change though!! Tim

Looks Like Yahoo is all jacked up. Try clicking on my homepage icon, then scroll down and click on 'show all' Tim

Just order what you want!!

The generic diagram on the same page as the Datsun cages on the Jegs website looks very much like the S&W one (the diagrams are at least identicle to the instruction sheet that came with my kit from S&W). My thinking is the amount of fabrication and customization would be the same for the Jegs unit as it is for the S&W unit . Won't know until someone buys one I guess. I hope that it's easier than the S&W unit, but since the prices are similar, the design maybe is too??!! My install wouldn't have been too bad if I wasn't using a fuel cell and racing seats I guess. Pictures in another post if interested. Tim

Fast frog: Did the HP actually drop by 10 when swapping in the roller cam, I see the Torque went through the roof!!! Tim