hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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Guys, like those eternal words from Fast Times: Learn it, Love it, Live it.
Heat transfer was actually one of my favorites, but English wasn't really my bag either...
Good luck and stick with it (of course)
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Incredible work Yasin!!
Two years to get all that done is not bad at all, in my opinion.
As everyone else said...more pics, video and sound clips please.
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Oh man, this has Mr. Eckert's name all over it.
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Success!!
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Now that you've fixed the symptom, what do you think caused it?
The previous owner had replaced the OEM cat with a "high-flow" unit, just before I bought her six years ago. I only put on ~3-4k miles a year...so I don't think the failure was from old age.
I think it might have been that I'm running too rich in some spots of my fuel map. What made it finally fall on it's face was after datalogging some REALLY rich areas (9-11 AFR's) under atmospheric load.
I have a 3" high-flow cat to install when I get the 3" exhaust going this winter. That is, install the cat after I lean out the map properly.
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That's good advice about minding the needle bearings.My experience was that the suckers kept falling out of place.
I think it is best to put the caps on from each side a little at a time, since the yoke hole centerlines aren't completely parallel. If you put on one side completely, you won't be able to get the other side on from mis-alignment.
Good Luck Challenger!! I know you can do this.
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Sweet! Congrats Grumpyvette!!
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Calgary, did you buy the Keyspan one? I found that works great with Wolf and Innovate.
However, I tried using that one from DIY autotune, and it didn't work for me. I tried adjusting the Baud rate too in Wolf too. I didn't know that 38.4k rate was minimum. Thanks for the info!
I think the DIY one is the one that Bo is using. I must be doing something wrong since it wouldn't work with Innovate either.
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Don't give up and take it to the shop! This pic is almost right, but the u-joint cannot go down, only the flange.
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I may be wrong, but I thought those retaining clips were to keep the caps from popping out. The caps can only go out. You can pound all day on the socket, and the cap will not go in enough to push the other side out. ...at least that the way I remember it working.
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So that is the correct way to hammer on it?
Thanks for the help.
I may be wrong, but I think tapping on the cap will only work for install. Since they are tapered, they won't go in any further to push the other side out.
If you tap around the cap, it will "push" the cap up. Then flip it over and do the same on the other side to get them loose. Turn it 90 degrees and tap on the axle flange to pop out the last two caps.
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what turbo did you go with? whats the specs?
T04E .60 trim compressor housing with a .50 trim wheel. T3 .63 A/R turbine housing, stage III wheel. I got the optional "old-style" Ford 5-bolt turbo housing, to accomodate the ATP "Ultimate Internal Wastegate".
It could have been a fluke that I got jacked around...you're right, the guy does seem really nice and helpful to talk to, and the 5-bolt housing fits perfect with the ATP wastegate...
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Yeah Phil they are great. I have talked with them a few times and got some great advice Great people to talk with... 35R huh phil? man you going for some nice power dude!!
Guys, I hope you have better luck with Ken than I did...
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130918
- He took FOREVER to get me the turbo (like a few months??). Every time I called him he kept saying just one more week, and it was still at the powdercoater. Then finally he said he just took it to the powdercoater
- I asked for a .50 trim compressor housing (so I wouldn't need a spacer) and I got a .60 trim housing instead
- I asked for high-temp powdercoating on the turbine housing and got cermachrome instead.
It is a pretty nice unit, I'm not too unhappy, except for the coating.
- He took FOREVER to get me the turbo (like a few months??). Every time I called him he kept saying just one more week, and it was still at the powdercoater. Then finally he said he just took it to the powdercoater
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Just wait until you clean all that stuff out of your living room and put it where it belongs, on your car.
The Rat is going be keeping pace with you if you don't do it soon
Skib, wake up...you're sleep-surfing again! Haha, just kidding Man.
I know...I know!!
Nose to the gridstone is the only way... -
Hey thanks for all the comments guys!
Prox is right, I think the plugged cat was holding me back, so I hollowed it out and gained a second and a half!
My next project is to install a mildly ported and polished head, ported exhaust manifold, T3/T04E, ulitmate internal wastegate (if it fits), 3" downpipe and exhaust to a straight-through Borla XR-1 muffler, and a 3" dual-3" out tip.
It will be tight as hell to fit, but I think it will work.
If I had the Wolf's PWM boost controller tuned correctly, I wouldn't have misfired / backfired in 1st gear on my track vid...I could almost be in the 13's with what I have now.
My OEM head gasket finally gave up the ghost on my last pass (150k original motor, never rebuilt or head pulled). I guess it's time for some upgrades early...ARP head studs now added to the list.
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Happy Birthday Master Ron!!
I thank you for all the help and knowledge you've given me over the years...
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Skib filmed this tonight at PIR. I made a HUGE improvement over last time!!
Last time: ~15.5 @ 85 MPH, 2.6 60' time.
This time: 14.174 @ 98.21 MPH, 2.124 60' time, .158 R/T
Youtube Vid:
I blew a head gasket on this run, but it was a 25 year-old stock head / turbo / exhaust anyway.
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I think the pics tell the story...
WTF?! There's briquettes inside, LOL!
What clued me in was that I couldn't get past 5000 RPM at the track last week (Drag racing at Portland International Raceway).
Then, the next day I couldn't generate more than about 5 pounds of boost.
I cleaned out all the junk, and now I can hardly keep the boost below 16 pounds!!
I'd better do quicker than a 15.5 in the 1/4 mile tonight...wish me luck.
Later, -hughdogz
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My Daily Driver.
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Whoops. Fixed that. Oh well. I cant spell.
I bet you can. Even if you cannot (or can't) spell, you are still a very cool (multi-lingual) guy Masew. Typing on the other hand...spell checking...should be cake!
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Where are these good looking z's photos??
I don't see any yet. Haha! Just kidding everyone.
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1982 280ZX Turbo
Hugh Henderson
Portland, Oregon
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Well there goes another 250$...
Not necessarily, you may be able to find a ZXT distributor & ignitor for from someone on here for less than that.
The n/a uses an E12-80 ignition module, but the turbo has a different one located next to the coil. Make sure you have one of those too.Maybe I will run out to the pick n pull, would a NA 83zx one work?
Yeah, just like a piston is a piston and and an ECU is an ECU.I figure a crank angle sensor is a crank angle sensor right?Seriously...you don't have much further to go now!
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The '82-83 turbo distributors use an Optical cam angle sensor, while the n/a's are induction.
The turbo ECU will be expecting a digital signal, not an analog. The optical sensor uses the "chopper wheel" which will output a square wave signal (digital = on, off, on, off). The n/a will be a sinusoidal-waveform (analog, like an ocean wave = rising, falling, rising, falling).
I'm pretty sure you'd need a ZXT distributor if it is '82-83 turbo ECU (or the '81 crank damper & CAS if the turbo ECU is an '81).
Hope this helps MJ...
I don't see any yet. 
Need help with wastegate actuator
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
I'm pretty sure it can be undone, just lower the preload by lengthening the actuator rod like so:
Notice the threaded rod and added sleeve.
Hope this helped...