hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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To quote Steve Martin..."I'm IN Print!! I'm In PRINT!"
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On the Motorsport Z-Car Nationals feature!!
{Edit: I see Nebsheer's Hoshinos there too! (good job guys!) }
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WOW!
...drool...It is funny, I noticed that they can't help but check themselves out too.
Bilsteins might help control that bouncing problem.
Stiffness = 5 lbs / inch, damping = .01 lbs * second / in
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Does any one know whos this is?
I believe that it belongs to a "used car" lot in Japan. At least that is where it was advertised at one time...
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Mikelly's Golf-cart!
(Yeah, the image is huge on purpose
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I used the CHTS for my Wolf install. I think Bo (KTM) used the coolant temp sensor located in the thermostat housing, and he's logging the CHTS as reference. Ron says the two sensors have the same voltage versus temperature curve.
[Edit: I was trying to say you want a sensor, not a switch for the ECU]
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Sweet! The 3.5" fits in there pretty good.
So it's not too loud? Thats a relief to me, since your Burns muffler looks even more straight-through than my oval Borla XR-1!
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Some of those were a joke (obviously
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Great thread Guys!! I can visualize how segmented bends can cause flow separation at the inside-corner walls and create turbulence, (aka "tumbling" => backpressure). I've been trying to keep them to a minimum, but sometimes that is all I can come up with in a pinch.
I realize now I probably have 10x more weld bead than needed, lol. It is great to see others handy-work for guidance.
What is the deal with stainless over aluminized? That the corrosion is less? It seems it would only matter on the inside, where you can get more buildup from the carbon / oxidation??
If you're in the PacNW / Left coast, I like this outfit for raw mandrel bends / V-bands at at decent price: http://store.racing-solutions.org/
Austin...20-30 hours of cutting and Tig'ing...huh? I was wondering how you were able to do those collector cuts and make it come out perfect!! Very Nice Job.
rdelat, I've always admired your builds. Thanks for posting up that photo Man!! ...that last one is an S130
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I think 280ZForce has same side, but routed the intake pipe under the radiator support to get cool air.
Like Bleach mentioned, it can be as much as ~40F degrees cooler air in front of the radiator then in the engine compartment...
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Progress pics
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Progress pics
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Saweeeet!! It sounds great Austin...almost like a formula car.
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You're right KTM, ceramic coating. I thought it was a form of powercoating...
I'm probably going to go with "cerma-chrome" since the turbine housing is already done that way. I know it is going to "blue" and possibly flake off when I run rich AFR's. I'll just have to be really careful.
Maybe I should get the black "super high heat" ceramic coating instead, but that would't look quite as nice as cermachrome...sheesh, what's a guy to do?
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I don't know if it has already been discussed in detail on this forum, but I remember a few things from other fourms...they were an option only on '83 models.
1) As with any 1980-83, they are limited to 85 MPH due to federal regulations at the time ("I can't drive 55" remember those days?). There has been mention on here that you could switch out the speedo cog, and use the KPH setting to go over 85 MPH
2) They are reliable, however the tachometer portion doesn't appear linear. i.e. the bars are progressively shorter, the higher the RPM. This seems opposite of what you'd expect...
3) I think they'll plug right in, in place of an '83 analog cluster, but I'm not sure they'd plug right into a '79-82 harness
4) My buddie who has one said he had a helluva time trying to find the correct replacement coolant temperature sensor. I think you'd have to also come up with at least one specific sensor for it to work properly.
Also the illumination is in green. Not sure if all '83's are, but '79-'82 have amber.
Hope this helped, -hughdogz
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Allright. Thanks for the votes of confidence Careless and Yasin.
I'm sure it will flow, but I'm wondering how much backpressure that kink is causing me. Plus, I want to get the DP (and wastegate) powder coated. After that point I can't afford to do any rework.
I'm going to have to put my perfectionist attitude in check, and just finish the job...the cat-back portion going over the rear trailing arm looks equally as daunting (if not more).Someday, I want to go to a GT-Series turbo (ball-bearing for faster spoolup) and external wastegate (maybe a tubular header purchase will materialize by then too). So I'll end up redoing it again anyway...I think this will meet my immediate goal.
Yasin, you're really going to 3.5", huh? That is going to sound soo beefy!!
I can't wait to check it out. kvansic162, no doubt...I never thought it would be so difficult to get a nice, smooth transitioning exhaust going. I think it would be challenging for me to make profit producing parts. My hat's off to the folks who have the ability to offer them. You'd think you'd have to sell at least a few units just to hit the break-even point of the R&D alone.
Does anyone have one of JeffP's "Killer 280ZX 3" exhaust" setups for sale? *grins and shakes head*
Thanks again Guys, Later! -hughdogz
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Maybe this should get moved into the exhaust section...
Anyway, I'm further along now. It isn't as straight as I hoped for (check out the crooked pics)
I tucked it up pretty close to the body and supports (maybe too close
). I was trying to keep it from dropping below the frame rails. I'm down to a half an inch of space between the body and exhaust in some places. I don't know if that is too close or not.I can't decide if I should finish welding it up, or grind off the tack welds and start over...
Later, -hughdogz
Sometimes, you just get lucky...(I wish welding was as easy as cutting
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Coming back to drool over this thread one more time
I think this is one of the top 3 badazz 280ZXT's on this site (Bernard and JeffP come in second and third, hehe
)Any close-up pics of your coilovers ? (maybe I missed the thread)
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I think you may be hard pressed to run a "same-side" IC without cutting into the core support. Unless you route at least one of the pipes below the rail, I don't think there is a way to use OEM holes unless you don't want the intake to be in front of the core support.
I also have a IC that uses opposite side. Here is what I did to minimize the cutting into the core support, using the OEM stock airbox holes and 2.25" tubing, and still have a CAI:
Here is where I cut into the headlight bracket and outer core support:
I hope Mayolives and 240Hoke don't mind me linking their photos...
Over the support (doubtful this is possible unless you cut the hood (like Phil280ZXT (?))
Below...like Austin did (I think 280ZForce routed it this way too):
Later, -hughdogz
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Ahh...I see what HowlerMonkey is saying now. Thanks Timz
I've been wondering about this as well. I think you could use an idler pulley / sheave as a "quick disconnect" of the belt (or else use a turnbuckle tensioner) to disable the alternator before starting. Another way could be to have one of those circuit "keys" to cut off the charge wire after starting...
I guess it all comes down to how much energy (Joules, etc.) your coil(s), injectors, headlights, etc. draw and the alternator efficiency. You guys are probably right that it is a negligible draw on the HP to run an alternator.
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...This allows your ignition coil to start with 13.8. to 14.1 volts rather than 12.6 volts it would see with no alternator.
I'm not trying to be a smart a$$, but how does your coil start at 13.8-14.1 volts if the alternator is not spinning yet?
Voltage compensation is available on some EMS' (i.e. for injector opening times, etc.)That 1.2 volts can mean a lot to people with certain configurations. -
I finally got going on making my 3" downpipe!
Here is a mockup, it is looking promising so far.
I know I still have a couple leaks to fix
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I finally got going on making my 3" downpipe!
Here is a mockup, it is looking pretty promising so far.
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Hi Nismo280zEd,
I tried using one of those ATC boxes. I found out they don't have a common "bus" for the set of fuses. That is, you have to make a separate power source for each fuse. (i.e. they are bunch of single fuses in one block). To make it work, I used a long screw to connect all the "top" terminals together and ran one power wire to it. However, I didn't like the looks of it all that much, and didn't feel it was as safe as it could be.
For a power supply, I saw one of Ron Tyler's posts and reverse-engineered his design (after consulting him first
) and came up with this:I use this as my main (75 amp breaker) power supply, then I can run a buss-bar off of one of the circuit breakers to other locations:
(Old photo just to give you an idea, I've totally reworked this area now)
You can order all the circuit breakers, etc. from waytek.
Hope this helped...
...drool...
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I'm going to have to put my perfectionist attitude in check, and just finish the job...the cat-back portion going over the rear trailing arm looks equally as daunting (if not more).
). I was trying to keep it from dropping below the frame rails. I'm down to a half an inch of space between the body and exhaust in some places. I don't know if that is too close or not.
)
)
hughdogz's 1982 280ZX-T
in S130 Series - 280ZX
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Some pics...