hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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My 260Z had a casualty yesterday.
MY DOG ATE MY Mirror!
I can bring my dog to work with me, but when there are meetings, I have to stick him in my car (I leave the windows halfway down so he can breathe but not jump out).
When I returned to get him I noticed that the glass was all broken on my side view mirror. Then I noticed that there were chew marks on the housing. Damn Beast broke 1/4" thick glass with his teeth!
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I'm thinking of going with a fuel rail blank and AN fittings to solve any hose heat issues (like Alan Osborn did on the Bonneville S130). If anyone asks what it is, I'll say it is staged direct fuel injection.
He suggested that I also plug the "bypass" hole (in the block at the head gasket interface) that allows the coolant to travel directly from the water pump outlet into the head. The caveat is that the lower radiator hose may collapse due to negative pressue this might cause. I think TonyD mentioned something about this too...
For the return, I was thinking of going into the upper thermostat housing. He went directly into the radiator inlet.
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Hi Garvice,
I'm thinking of swapping over to a Z32 CAS like Ron has installed on Clint Barnt's n/a L28. It is much more compact and clean-looking in my opinion. I believe I can use a Z32 CAS with my L28ET if I flip the disk over (L-series CAS' spin CCW, while VG's spin clockwise) to use the leading edges of the slits (which are always 60 degrees separation) and drill a sync hole.
Ron would know more for sure...
As Paul mentioned, it may be in the way the Wolf is configured..."magicially" it can use the slit widths to determine "sync" and "reference" (with the help of the black-box?).
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You can buy an actual speed sensor from Garrett!
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/Accessories_continue_speed_sensor.html
Easy to Use
The Garrett® Turbocharger Speed Sensor works with any turbocharger to accurately determine compressor wheel speed. The instructions include detailed drawings of the exact machining specifications for all Garrett® GT catalog turbochargers as well as general guidelines for other compressor housing types. The Garrett® Turbocharger Speed Sensor Kit includes all necessary wiring for easy installation and simple data logging.
Two Options Available
Garrett® Turbocharger Speed Sensor Pro Kit - PN 781328-0002 The Garrett® Turbocharger Speed Sensor Pro Kit includes speed sensor, wiring harness, and installation instructions.
Garrett® Turbocharger Speed Sensor Street Kit - PN 781328-0001 The Garrett® Turbocharger Speed Sensor Street Kit includes speed sensor, wiring harness, installation instructions and Garrett®-branded turbo speed gauge.
Cheers (and happy boosting), -hughdogz
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To add to BRAAP's Generous posts...
You can probably do it...it seems to depend on the length of the fuel rail past the #1 injector:
"Newer style" Thermostat Housing:
('82 ZXT)
"240Z style" thermostat housing:
Hope this helps...
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I may be incorrect, but I'm not sure that the stock ECU knows how much boost you're running, it just goes by the airflow meter (i.e. no map sensor).
There is a "boost gage sender". If I remember correctly, it is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. All it does is send a signal to the stock boost gage.
I disconnected it when I installed a more accurate boost gage (the stock gage no longer worked) and the ECU didn't change the way the engine performed...
Any pics of what you're describing?
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How (and how often) you dress the tire is a factor that hasn't been mentioned yet...
Ever notice the brown gunky film that appears on tires after awhile? It is supposed to be there since that is how the rubber is protecting itself.
I know tires look a lot nicer when you rub it off buffing with tire shine. It could actually be worse for the tire's life if you simply remove it, without properly re-protecting it...
http://www.meguiars.com/faq/index.cfm?faqCat=Wheels%20and%20Tires&faqQuestionID=59§ion=_59#_59
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Nice Job Warren!!
I can't believe how far you've taken your S130. It doesn't seem that long ago when you first bought it.
Someday I'll move out of the #106 place in the timeslips database (hopefully up, hehe)
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Your SU was leaking out of the air filter box? The most likely thing that happened is the float was stuck, not closing the needle valve.
In case this happens, there is a barb & hose (on the float chamber lid) that directs the overflow into the airbox, so that it will be sucked into the engine instead of dripping on the hot exhaust manifold, causing a fire.
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A broken T/C rod? It is probably not, since that would be pretty obvious.
Do your front calipers have both the upper and lower retaining shims for the pads?
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Is your choke cable on? Make sure that with the choke off, the jet nozzles are seated "up" against the body. If they're stuck in the "down" position, you'll be really rich.
Unless there is a problem with the float (gross mixture adjustment), you can adjust the mixture with the mixture screw (fine mixture adjustment). It is that big threaded "ring" below the body (above the jet nozzle) that has one big and one little bump on the circumference.
Stock setting is 3.5 turns "out" (clockwise looking from the top). By using the bump on the ring, count how many turns "in" it takes until they stop, so that you know where you started from.
If yours are out much more than 3.5 turns, it is probably why you're running rich. The knobs are pretty sensitive, even 1/8 of a turn can make a substantial difference on the mixture.
If you're still super rich after running at 3->3.5 turns, look at an improperly adjusted choke, float, needle, (or maybe) not enough oil in the damper reservoir.
If you can, get the "Just SU's" video from Ztherapy. It explains almost everything you need to know about SU's.
Hope this helped...
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They should at least do a feature of all the stuff you're controlling (and done) with the Wolf on their website.
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Yasin, I think this is WAY better than my idea of using Solex locks.
I some ways, I'm glad I'm such a procrastinator...I can wait for you and frank280zx to come up with good ideas for these hoods.
Thanks for the tip! Looks Awesome Man!
[Edit] So I take it that the "low profile" ones might have interference issues?
(top surface mount "Plus-Flush") (below surface "Flush") -
You're probably spot-on Prox...
I know you can get accurate positions for GPS (~5 meters?), I wasn't sure if the speedo was so crude.
Thanks!
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http://www.nordskogperformance.net/products/marine/gps/detail/hga120.htm
Why don't they make these in 160 MPH versions?
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Hey Hugh, I'd love to scan the one you got at the show if you still have it?
Greg
I already threw it away!
Just kidding, but no thanks. I'd rather keep it mint than to possibly bust up the spine in a scanner. I'm considering getting a subscription...it's a mere $10 per year. If I get a double first issue, I'll sell you a copy.
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I might know the guy that sold you the kit. Does his name start with a B and end with an N?
Shipping a box that size may cost $100-200.
[Edit: First, a cardboard box is needed to fit the parts. As others have mentioned, Greyhound could do it for less than other carriers. I have next week off, so I can actually get out during the workday. I doubt your're willing to cut it in half like Vinh does to ship parts from JPN.
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Yep, everyone got one in their goodie bag who entered in the Canby 2008 car show.
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Now THAT is COOL!
I really like your ZX rdelat
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Sheesh, beginning to think that I am chopped liva'....
:lmao:
Chopped fillet mignon? With a bit of Mad Scientist thrown in there?
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I'd say #3 for the following reasons:
- With the changed Volumetric Efficiency of the engine, you can street tune the fuel map safely below atmospheric. Trust me, it won't blow up even (accidentally) running into 17-18 AFR's (I was hesitant to believe Bo at first, but it's true! )
- Next, street tune the fuel map to ~7psi boost, and you're still pretty much in the safe zone...
- Slowly work your way up to ~12-15 psi boost
I think that as long as you don't mess with advancing the timing too much (just keep using Bo's base timing map) you probably won't blow anything up (detonate) creating the fuel map.
As TonyD mentioned, you only really need to Dyno tune for high speed. You can datalog up to ~85 MPH (130 KPH) if you find a long, empty stretch of road. Just try to keep an eye on the AFR gauge to make sure you're not running too lean in boost.
I'm not sure why many people think the Dyno is so much safer for initial tuning
. With a Mustang dyno (versus an inertial dyno) you can have a constant load across RPM ranges. This will help rough out the map in the least amount of time.Once you understand how use the Wolf and Logworks, you'll be able to "talk the talk" and "walk the walk" with the dyno operator and save time ($$$) so they won't have to self-train how to use the Wolf interface.
I can send you my Logworks3 template that contains a fuel correction macro and target AFR table. You're on your own for timing tuning.
Good Luck! -Hugh
- With the changed Volumetric Efficiency of the engine, you can street tune the fuel map safely below atmospheric. Trust me, it won't blow up even (accidentally) running into 17-18 AFR's (I was hesitant to believe Bo at first, but it's true!
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Kind of opposite (but similar) to Cygnusx1's idea...
What if the material properties could change instantly, to stiffen the skin in case an object is encountered. Maybe by the forces from object itself, or using proximity sensors and electrifying the skin...kind of like what happens with shape memory alloys. (Not that you'd ever crash one of those babies
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From what I understand...not only does Bo have a "meth map" (just as configurable as a "conventional" fuel map) but when the meth pressure? drops below a certain point, it "automagically" goes back to the "fuel only" map.
I'm telling ya, the WOLF is bad-a$$ (in many regards)
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Any idea where I could get a dark piece of plexiglas? Most shops want to charge big $$$$ for a whole sheet, sometimes as much as $50.00 - $100.00.
Tap plastics is the place. It is located off I-5 in Tigard, near Home Depot. They sell plastics (Plexi, Lexan,etc.), fiberglass supplies, even Carbon Fiber and Kevlar.
They have a scrap bin you can look through, with pieces much larger than you're looking for for maybe five bucks. They can also custom cut (or bend) any piece as well...
[Edit: I think Cygnusx's idea of film is probably the best. $2.25 for vinyl cling film and you're good to go! http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=272&& ]
(top surface mount "Plus-Flush")
(below surface "Flush")
)
. With a Mustang dyno (versus an inertial dyno) you can have a constant load across RPM ranges. This will help rough out the map in the least amount of time.
Z pretenders.........ugh
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I don't think anyone has mentioned this one yet, but sometimes people see a 280Z or a 280ZX and say "hey, that's a nice Z28" *smacks forehead*. Challenger knows what I'm taking about.
The other day, I see this Z32 around my neighborhood...I see him a second time at the 7-Eleven, and the guy is putting another sticker on his 1/4 window. I tell the guy I like his Z (n/a) and he says "I've had lots of these, and used to have a twin turbo with big turbos...it used to eat Vipers all day long!" (Which I don't doubt)
But then, he goes on to say "this one only weighs 1600 pounds" I didn't have the heart to correct him and say more like 3600 pounds...maybe he meant 1600 kilograms, hehe...