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hughdogz

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Posts posted by hughdogz

    L6 Turbo Header Group Buy

    in Group Buys

    Posted

    Hi John, Count me in! +1 :P

     

    Awesome!! Thanks sooo Much for this...I'll make sure I have $500 saved soon.

     

    You can even borrow my unused .60 trim T04E if you'd like, for mockup purposes only, and it's a LHD turbo (of course, hehe...) :mparty:

    Check out my new 3" in / dual 3" out exhaust Tip (pics)

    in Exhaust

    Posted

    where did you get the straight ones that the msa catalog is laying on? Also how much did you pay?

     

    -Ed

     

    For the tip, I searched High and Low...it ended up costing me ~90 bucks from a local muffler shop. :icon31:

     

    It weighs ~5-10 lbs to be honest...I got a hanger for free!

     

    There is this cool guy that open up a shop nearly across the street from me that has a businness and also builds a ~9 second dragster that kind of got my attention one day while I was walking my dog. :P

     

    Nice Guy, and I'm sure he can get more.

     

    A-1 MUFFLER

     

    • Fast Quality Service
    • Custom Exhaust Systems
    • Catalytic Converters
    • Welding

    LEE ENNIS

     

    (503) 452-6853

    8970 SW Barbur Blvd

    Portland, OR 97219

    Adding a pre-muffler

    in Exhaust

    Posted

     

    Hey, that's not bad considering Summit charges even more!

    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=QTP%2D10300&N=700+115&autoview=sku ($42.95)

     

    Plus this:

    http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=QTP%2DQTEC30&N=700+115&autoview=sku ($159.95)

     

    On that fleabay kit, you also get a V-band kit and a dump pipe! How do they do it for so much less? I wonder if it inferior quality or something.

     

    I've heard that if you shut off your hot exhaust with the butterfly in the closed position, it may stick there due to the different thermal expansion coefficients of the materials (and sticktion?).

    Can anyone tell me what wheels these are?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I'll have to agree with Paul on the tires, but those rims seem like "Enkei Mesh" look-a-likes to me...

     

    If you have them already, go ahead and remove wheel and the lug nut(s). :mrgreen: Often times, Enkei will cast the manufacturer, model / part number and size behind the mounting flange surface.

     

    Worth a look, and some "mag" style lug-nuts (versus acorn) would do those wheels well. M12x1.25 :icon31:

     

    [Edit: I think "wheels" means rim + tire. No? ]

    New 280ZX

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Cool Man! That was worth going down there to get.

     

    So 0% rust, and all-original except for the stereo (and "performance paint":wink:)? Sweet! :icon14:

     

    It looks strange seeing a stock L28 now, hehe. :-D

    Type III S130 airdam from MSA coming soon

    in S130 Series - 280ZX

    Posted

    Hugh - So the only difference between the Type III and II is the round fog light or brake duct holes

    Regards - Yasin

     

    Yasin' date='[/color']

     

    From what I can tell, there are a few differences. I think they basically took the below bumper portion from the S30 type III and the upper portion from the S130 type II. This means:

    • Type III has foglight / brake duct holes. If this isn’t appealing or useful, they can be filled-in
    • The opening is bigger than the type II, which may or may not be better (cooling versus aero)
    • The lower lip protrudes forward more than the type II. I like this better since it is almost a splitter now
    • The bottom doesn’t appear to “slope up†towards the front as much as a type II. You might even be able to run a real splitter, since it will be nearly horizontal

    I think they might have changed their vendor, since a buddie of mine recently installed a brand-new type II on his ZXR and said it wasn't quite symmetric as to how far the bumper sticks out below the headlight nacelle / bucket??

     

    roye@hrewheels.com, the gap is there from the factory, but it doesn't look quite so big OEM. There is a piece of black rubber that is attached to the underside of the hood, that "closes" the gap. With these front fascias, there could be a slight issue with interference when the hood opens and closes. It works fine on mine, but it seems to not work so well on the newer type II's (I know two ZX's that have this problem). It is probably in how tight you install the airdam. You may have to trim the rubber piece down a bit.

     

    The pic is of the prototype, they probably still have some minor tweaking to do. Overall, I think it is great and MSA is showing some love for the ‘ol 280ZX’s. :P

     

    I think biggest factor is in the installation. I’ve seen examples where the fascia is not only glassed-in, but you can fasten it tight up against the headlight buckets, and mold it in so there is no gap (like Heat’s Mach5). Same goes for the rear valance / fascia…I think it looks much cleaner if you eliminate the gap(s). It’s way more work, but it looks so much cleaner…

    My new custom plates (Woo hoo! ...Finally)

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Hey Guys,

     

    I had no idea that I'd get this much attention. :-D

     

    Okay, I'll come clean now about what the heck they mean, hehe.

     

    "HI NRZ": I came up with this idea from "HI NRG" (=high energy). Also, it was at that time when Dodge Neons had the advert campaign going where their slogan was "Hi" (because ??)....and I thought that was kind of cute. :P So, I was going to use "HI NRGZ" but then I thought that looked ugly, so I changed my mind to "HI NRZ" (substituted the "G" for a "Z") thinking people would get it...NOT! :icon_frow

     

    So then I got a chance to change it again. Since Kurzals already has the Oregon plate "Turbo Z" I couldn't use that one. "TURBO ZX" or "ZX TURBO" wouldnt fit since Oregon only allows six digits (and a space or hyphen) and it was kind of too close to John's. I wanted "S130 ZXT" but that wouldn't fit either!

     

    I settled for "S130 ZT" since S130=chasis code for a 280ZX, and Z (because it is a Z, or more specifically a ZX, and "T" since it is turbo).

     

    Whew! All this and I'm probably going to go with SP plates eventually.

     

    ...I hope this made sense...

    My new custom plates (Woo hoo! ...Finally)

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Well, my "HI NRZ" plates were getting old...I got sick of being asked what it meant...so I ordered a new set (once you order vanity plates in Oregon, you can change them anytime you want, for the next two years, for a mere $20 extra). However, it takes about 2-3 months to manufacture).

     

    For some reason, they quit using the holographic state of Oregon seals...I hope I don't get pulled over again and the popo thinking I made them. :icon31:

     

    Let me know what you think...I'll probably go with some SP (special purpose) plates next time around since you only have to register once (~$20) and no DEQ. :P

     

    Cheers, -hughdogz

     

    S130_ZT.jpg

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