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hughdogz

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Posts posted by hughdogz

  1. About 3-4 years ago, I did the SAME thing, only with a cam cover bolt.

     

    It was right before the MSA show, and I was hesitant to start pulling stuff off, and even more reluctant to turn the engine over. :confused:

     

    Since I didn't see it in the front cover, it probably dropped into the oil pan. My buddie Bryan said start it up, and to my surprise it has been running fine ever since! :icon14: He even said I should drop another one down there to prove that it will still run fine, LOL!

     

    [Edit: If I was in the same position today, I'd probably remove the spark plugs an "manually" crank the engine over slowly to see it there is a problem before I'd go bumping the starter. Good luck!]

  2. ...

     

    I'll add another 1/2 => 1 tube, give it a whirl and report back.

     

    ...

     

    I added 2.5 => 3 tubes (4 oz each) and the knocking is more bearable now. I've noticed that once the oil warms up, it gets much less noisy around slow, sharp turns. This is really strange since this is opposite to what Zmanco is experiencing...

     

    If it is still a problem, I'll go with some Redline CLSD oil like aarang mentioned.

     

    Thanks guys, -Hugh

  3. Could also use two 2 BAR MAP sensors, tieing them into voltage reference, ground and then using a pair of DMMs, you can see how much difference there. record the max differences and then through calculations, come up with an actual pressure difference. Might even be able to set up gauge to show the difference.

     

    You Genius :icon15:...:icon45:

     

    Six_Shooter, I think that would work great. I believe there are two GM MAP sensors already installed. :icon54:

  4. There must be some way to set up a manometer between each side of the I/C...but then recording it and keeping the fluid out of your engine may be challenging.

     

    John, doesn't your boost gauge have a recorded max indicator? You can hook that up on the I/C inlet side and keep your Tec3 datalogger as the outlet side. Then compare the difference in the recorded max pressures.

     

    I'd think that the pressure drop across the piping may be negligible. Not sure if it will work, since there may only be a few PSI pressure drop. The boost gauge is probably not as accurate as a MAP sensor (even though it is MAP-sensor based, the dial is analog). It would be interesting to see the results...:icon44:

  5. Hey Willens, it sucks to hear about that. Not a very good start on the 'ol 280ZXT :?

     

    If I were in your shoes, I'd do a compression check on the head to see if you get some good #'s across the board before you pull the head or source a replacement. You can probably borrow a compression tester from Autozone...do a dry test, then a wet test. You should be able to get say 130-150 pounds across the board.

     

    Just because the turbo shaft spins freely doesn't mean that it isn't shot. You should also check the "axial play" to make sure that it isn't excessive. Also, you could pull the oil drain tube to see if it is blocked...if it is, that could send a majority of the oil right through the turbo the wrong way...

     

    Keep us posted...and may the Z-Force be with you!! :icon42:

  6. Don't change the oil weight. Add LSD additive. You should be able to find it at any auto parts store. Chrysler, GM, Ford, it's all the same stuff. Just keep adding tubes or bottles until the chattering stops.

     

    Hi Jon,

     

    I appreciate your reply. I'm having chattering issues with my newly installed KAAZ. I used one tube of CRC fluid to my 80-90W Valvoline GL-5 gear oil.

     

    I was considering adding more, but the CRC instructions say to not add more than one tube, but the "knockety-knock" is pretty annoying.

     

    I'll add another 1/2 => 1 tube, give it a whirl and report back.

     

    Thanks! -hughdogz :icon14:

  7. All good comments!

     

    I just wanted to add that it is possible to remove the turbo without having to remove the exhaust manifold first. You may have to completely unbolt the downpipe though...

     

    Also, it may be a challenge to detatch the EGR tube at the downpipe (most likely it is frozen) it is easier to do it at the intake manifold / EGR.

     

    My $0.02, Good luck! :icon14:

  8. Good Job!

     

    Have you looked into that "ultimate wastegate" fitment yet???

     

    Hi Brad-Man,

     

    I still think it will work. I'm even more confident since I found a 3" Diameter, 3" CLR mandrel tube for the downpipe. Firewall clearance is still and issue for me since S130's have about 3" less room from the motor mounts to the firewall compared to S30's.

     

    I'm planning on a winter project to do the whole manifold / turbo / wastegate / exhaust system. By eyeball I still think it should work. :rolleyes:

  9. I sure picked the wrong time of the year to start this one, but after much patience and research, I finally laid down two black stripes!!

     

    I have a stock R200 with CV axles and I bought a (slightly used) KAAZ 1.5-way CLSD off ebay that was previously installed in an S13 / 240SX.

     

    I found that the unit doesn't have provisions for the internal snap-ring, so I had to settle for "floating".

     

    Another minor detail was that one of the 280ZX CV stub axles (splined portion) was about 1/4" too long and would bottom out inside the LSD unit.

     

    I just used a chop-saw to cut the hardened steel. It got pretty hot since it is a friction blade. Then I chamfered it, but I didn't do much quenching...at least I don't think it annealed too much (cooling too slowly).

     

    Here is a spare that I practiced on:

    diff_5.JPG

     

    diff_4.JPG

     

    diff_3.JPG

     

    I took it out for a spin across town and it felt pretty good. It kind of had the knocking / clunking / chatter in sharp, slow turns at the beginning. I suppose the tube CLSD fluid wasn't fully mixed into the gear oil yet...

     

    I even made my own pneumatic pump to fill the gear oil into the diff housing! (piece of cake) :-P

     

    diff_6.JPG

     

     

     

    Sorry I haven't posted pics of the LSD carrier itself. :bonk:

     

    I did get the side lash set and new bearings pressed on, so that added ~$75 to the cost of the project, but at least I'm sure that the contact patch between the pinion and ring gear is right on!

     

    Now to see if I can get a grip at the track next week! :icon14:

     

    Bye-bye stock open carrier (whoo hoo!!!)

     

    diff_1.JPG

     

    diff_2.JPG

  10. Were these style of panels common on the zx? Does anybody have them on thiers?

     

    WOW! Those are really cool fenders with the vents, I've never seen those before. They appear to be stock but with vents.

     

    The hood appears to be a variation on the stock one with some kind of ridge around the periphery? The bumper looks like a copy of the stock 82-83's.

     

    The airdam appears very similar to the Xenon airdam...they are still available with or without the ducts:

     

    large501436.jpg

     

    The nacelles (headlight buckets) appear to be stock, but with "Altec style" headlight covers (lenses) as part of the nacelle.

     

    e.g.: Altec cover:

    group501042.jpg

     

    I'd say that the most unique and original pieces are the vented fenders. :-P

     

    So those are the molds or the pieces (I can hardly tell the difference :icon50:) [Edit: I think 280ZForce just answered my question]

     

    Thanks for sharing!! -hughdogz :2thumbs:

  11. also keep in mind when removing them you don't need to save them, if they prove difficult you can use a small pipe wrench with a cheter pipe, worst case tak the manifold off and take ti to the machine shop they generally charge about $10 per bolt to drill and tap should you break one off

     

    That is the method I used (pipe wrench directly on the threads of the studs). Just be careful and try to ensure that the force you're applying is perpendicular as possible to the axis of the stud, to minimize the chances of shearing the stud.

     

    I broke off only one stud in the manifold using this method. :?

     

    I realize you're short on time, but you can also get an OBX T3 1/2" spacer off ebay if the machine shop doesn't come through: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-HYBRID-TURBO-MANIFOLD-INLET-WELD-FLANGE-T3-T3-T4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ006QQitemZ160270036813QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

     

    Best of luck Calgary!!:icon14:

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