hughdogz

Measure the outer diameter of the compressor inlet. I'm pretty sure that stock is 2.25". The inducer diameter of the compressor wheel will give you a rough idea of how much flow the turbo is capable of producing. Wigen-OutS30 has a thread on comparing the stock turbo to a bigger turbo that also has a Nissan compressor housing.

Now that's funny! Humor aside, I appreciate the advice crazyturbo.

I couldn't agree more. I say if they post in "IM text" ban them for a day, next offense a week, etc. I get so turned off when I visit other Z forums...it reminds me of a high-school cafeteria! Yet another reason why I really enjoy hanging out at HBZ.

Although it may not be the preferred method, but I heard you can weld Aluminized steel to stainless steel without too much hassle.

A narrow band O2 is soooo different than wideband. A wideband can detect a wide range of AFR's maybe 7-20 AFR. A narrow band is nearly a "binary" sensor since the voltage versus AFR function is nearly vertical around 14.7 AFR. Basically, a narrow band can tell you if you are rich or lean, but not by how much. [Edit: I meant voltage versus AFR, not voltage versus time...]

Hi Bo, Maybe I'm reading your reply wrong (or vice-versa).... I'm hoping to use Innovate as the only data logger, and not get into any Wolf data logging. Plus, I didn't upgrade to the newer V500 that supports better datalogging, etc. (we know Wolf datalogging is weak, but the EMS control is incredible) I'm going to try to follow in your footsteps :hail:and use the spreadsheet method (or maybe Logworks2) to determine the new injector opening time based on lambda AFR. I really appreciate all your guys' support! I'm getting so close (yet I'm still so far) that it hurts! lol.

Too bad it won't work for us S130 Turbo guys. They used to sell one that will fit an S130 with a Nissan 5-speed, but will not fit with a Borg-Warner T5. I can't believe these used to sell for $300!

Master Ron, thanks for the advice! I have an LMA-3 I can use as an external MAP. It shouldn't be too difficult to figure out how to correlate the two MAP sensors. I just need to install the LMA-3 and tee the manifold pressure signal. Good times!

I want to use a Wolf output to output the MAP signal so that it can be datalogged. Is there a way through either Wolf's General purpose output or the multi-controller output to output a 0-5V signal that can be used by an Innovate datalogger? I'm planning on using an LM-1 and an LMA-2 rpm converter hooked up to the Wolf to do my initial tuning, and install a more robust, permanent data logging setup (sensors and gages) at a later time... At minimum, I need to log load% (MAP), RPM and AFR. Thanks, -hughdogz

And the more obvious: 1) Says 280ZX_Turbo on the fenders emblems instead of 280ZX 2) It has an Turbo emblem on the rear hatch above the lights 3) The turbo will have a factory boost gage in the center pod 4) They came with 15" snowflake rims (I belive all turbo years came that way) 5) Has to be an '81-'83 and the '81's were all A/T 6) Only the Turbos in '81 had the Naca duct on the hood

I agree, some graphics can be tastefully done, especially if they are factory (or psudo-factory). The Nismo graphics look pretty stylish to me since they are pretty subtle. Also ZXR or 280z Zzzap! are pleasing. But come on, an Asian dragon on a domestic Hemi?? I don't get it. It seems like a kung-fu fighting superhero's car. Unless you are a superhero, I wouldn't be rocking those graphics, lol... Racing stripes would be cool though...I don't know exactly the history behind racing stripes...do they make your car easier to see for the other drivers?

Nooooooo!!!!! Just say No to rice (please). Hybridz is for extreme performance! Stickers, vinyl graphics, spinners, fake BOV sounds, etc. are pretty much shunned around here. Sorry, I don't mean to be rude but it is the truth...if you want a better response you might have better luck at zeecardawtcom.

^^ Anyone know what kind of wheels those are in the second pic? Are they sportmax 007's?

I just went through this with the Wolf EMS and my '82 ZXT. As mentioned before, there are two types of factory Tachs: -The 240z tachs are current controlled and get their signal from the (+) side of the coil. -Post-240Z's uses a voltage-controlled tach signal off of the (-) coil terminal. There are three types of MSD tach adapters: 8910: Voltage-controlled tach adapter 8910EIS: Current-controlled tach adapter 8920: Can be either voltage or current controlled (depending upon how you hook it up) Tach manuals clicky If an MSD is not used, you must go with an 8920. If an MSD is used, you can use an 8910 or 8910EIS depending on the application. For a 280ZX, the blue coil (-) wire that feeds the factory tach actually changes to a light green with white stripe after a resistor. I tied into the the light green with white stripe wire right behind the instrument cluster where it comes out of the circular connector block (pin 20). Connect this wire to the output signal of the 8920. You should be able to get away with using an 8910 instead of an 8920 since I could run the factory Tach and FI using and MSD6AL and 8910 tach adapter. The 8910's are ~$35 and the 8920's are ~$55. Hope this helped...

There is a guy on ebay that has been selling the 130 MPH for years...clicky I think you're right about the speedo sensor being used by the cruise control. Now that I think about it, the seatbelt sensors are in the seat and the latch...I'm not sure it has anything to do with the speed sensor. Since my cruise control stopped working a couple years ago, and I removed the contollers, all I cared about was the voice warning.

Some like the voice warning system, some don't. It's saved me many times with the e-brake, doors and headlights! It isn't hooked into the stock stereo or the fuel injection system or ignition system. I have a Blaupunkt CD player and a Wolf3D engine management and Betty is still bitchin. I thought that the voice warning system used the center dash speaker, but I'm not 100% on that. You can replace the speaker and the VWS still works. It's on a circuit all it's own and the record player (seriously, you can hear it spin) is in the passenger rear strut tower.

It would be cool to see a convective heat transfer CFD on one like Clifton linked compared to a horizontal. If it isn't internally baffled the flow is really low for the first half of the tubes compared to the second half. Flow exponentially increases along the core length. I like the vertical core with long end-tanks design for our Z's. Shorter length charge-pipe tubing to run, and less pressure drop for sure. I just don't know if it has comparable efficiency, or if it is more easily heat-soaked than a horizontal core. Consider that a 24x12" horizontal core has 288 in^2 frontal area wheras the vertical core one posted has ~152 in^2 (22.5x6.75"). That's 90% more frontal area for the horizontal.

Hey, I appreciate the follow-up 83zed owner. It sounds like you didn't keep the speed sensor then. On my '82, there are four electrical connections on the speedo, three of which go to the backside of the instrument cluster printed circuit board (PCB). Red and green with black stripe wires are for the odometer sensor, and green and yellow with black stripe are for the speed sensor. These all connect to the PCB except for the green with black stripe, which goes into a bullet connector in the main harness. I'm curious...does your voice warning system still work for the e-brake and doors at speed? Someday I'll get autometer gages and make my own cluster like Guy did on his 80LT1.

Is it good? I think so, 3.5" thick bar and plate design, 1 psi pressure drop at 76.5 lb/min (1000 CFM). I just don't think it would fit that easy. Just the core is 26" long and it is only 10.5" high. Sparky said 26" is about the max length including end-tanks. I'd keep looking for something narrower with a 14" or 16" height. [Edit: In general, height is more important than length for a horizontal core IC, and vice-versa for a vertical core. It's a balancing act of efficiency versus pressure drop.]

Did you use the '79 speed sensor and just extend the wires? I always seem to do things the hard way.

I had to trace down some wires behind the instrument cluster for the coolant temp sensor and Tachometer. I got one of those "while I'm at it" to upgrade the speedometer. First of all, it wasn't easy to remove the cluster. It wouldn't come out since the factory must have installed it before the vinyl glue for the dash was set. I just trimmed away at the seam until it came out. Next you have to release the connectors from the PCB. After what seemed like hours, I figured out those latch-clips aren't doing any retaining. You just have to pull REALLY, REALLY hard in order to get those connectors off. The '79 speedo is quite a bit different than the '82: -The '82 has six digits for the odometer, while the '79 has only five. -There is a micro-switch on the '82 that senses the odometer (maybe for a maintenance idiot light?) that the '79 doesn't have. -The 0 MPH stop uses a "lever" at the top of housing on the '79, while the '82 uses a pin at 0 MPH on the gage face. -The speed sensor on the '79 has a short pigtail and is mounted on the rear of the housing. The '82 speed sensor is mounted where the 0 MPH stop "lever" is at the top of the housing. Here is how I made it work: Since the '79 speed sensor may not work, and the pigtail is definitely too short, I used the '82 speed sensor. The '79 0 MPH stop and the '82 speed sensor cannot be mounted in the same place, so I removed the '79 stop and put the '82 speed sensor in it's place. Next, I drilled a 7/64 inch hole in the '79 face to accept the '82 stop pin. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing that the speed sensor is only used for a seat belt warning light, or "Bitchin Betty" to notice that the "Parking Brake is ON" Anyhoo, I searched and didn't find any how-to info, so I thought this might help another non-1979 S130 owner doing the swap. Please correct me if I'm wrong or if you can vouch for this method. Thanks, -hughdogz

Isn't that what we do for hours when we drop the timing chain into the front cover??

Wha? You didn't know you were the legendary "Wiki D"?

I bet a glass tire would mount on easily.

Ouch! hehe... (sorry I'm biased) Dan, you sure picked up the photoworks fast!! Do you guys get CosmosWorks student edition easily? We could do some CFD on our designs too.