hughdogz

I have 14mm injectors with "stock size" pintle caps (n/a RX7's modified) and -6AN fuel lines to a 3/8" NPT fitting in the rail. What is -8AN fuel rail stock? 8/16" bore? If so, I can just tap for 3/8" NPT (9/16") I figured I might have to buy new injectors anyway according to the flange's injector bore style. Keep us posted...thanks Justin!

This is a really interesting thread (the S12 part wasn't a bad aside either). I agree with a lot of what has been said here (and in other threads before). HBZ is a give-and-take atmosphere. My approach is to help others the best I can, and never make an educated guess without saying you're guessing. At any point, you can only help others that know less than you already do. At the same time, you want to avoid spoon-feeding if it's either obvious that they didn't search at all, or if they are mostly takers and don't give back. I figure if I have a question, I don't feel as bad asking for advice when I know I've done my part in helping others that aren't as savvy yet. If everyone took this approach, we would learn more is less time (in a perfect world) and the takers would have to learn the hard way either through experience (like others before them) or hardcore searching. However, I see nothing wrong with people who choose not to share some choice info. Especially if that information was gained at high expense in either time & money or both. I might be totally off base here, but I think that information is analogous to a part. Just because you upgraded doesn't mean that the old part still isn't worth anything to you. It's almost the same with information... There are some old parts that I would be happy to give away, but others may be worth a lot more to me and I would have a hard time just giving it away This is especially true if it was someone who couldn't fully appreciate the effort expended to gain it since to them it was "free" ...I hope you guys will still answer my posts after reading this.

T3 compressor inlet is 2.25". I second jeffer949 on the rest. If you're going with t-bolt clamps (which you should, they're only about $4 each) don't find out the hard way that a 3" t-bolt clamp won't fit a 3" coupler (since the coupler diameter is larger). A 3.5" t-bolt will fit a 3" coupler depending upon if you get 3-ply or 4-ply couplers and the manufacturer. 2" coupler uses 2.375" clamp, 2.625" clamp for a 2.25" coupler, etc. Results may vary, but you get the idea. You can make a 3" coupler fit the 3.2" AFM if you really stretch it. You can use a an ordinary hose clamp instead of a 3.5-3.75" t-bolt for the AFM since it will never be pressurized above atmospheric.

Hehe...absolutely no offense taken. In fact, I wish I could burn those Enkei's to the ground. They are so HEAVY and the bling got old fast (~four years ago). I'm sure I can offload them onto craigslist soon. I wouldn't want to pollute our for sale forum with them. Excellent! +1 more expert opinon and we're are all in agreement! Thanks 280ZForce!

Hey thanks for the replies Six_Shooter and Evan Purple!! I'm going with the same size tire diameters / height. It's great to get advice from those that have been there, done that. :icon14:

This is bizzare. Now I tried to delete one of my last 24 hour posts and I can't see the delete post option under advanced mode (or super-edit ;oP) If someone replies or views your thread, you cannot delete it anymore? Meh...I feel like a donkey now, LOL!

I can't answer the Megasquirt aspect, but if you think the engine might not be getting enough air to start, is it able to start if you crack open the throttle a tiny bit while you're cranking? Can you open up the idle adjustment screw on the TB? Do you still have an idle air regulator hooked up with "key-on" power? It is seperate from the EFI system. HTH, -hughdogz

You never cease to AMAZE Monzter!! 41% more flow is quite an impressive improvement.

^^^ +1 It sounds like you're dealing with a reputable shop. It's great they will fix it, but a bummer that it happened in the first place.

I couldn't find this subject has been covered much through searching. I'm trying to figure out the "best" tire combination to go with my 7" and 8" wide rims. I'm thinking of going with some Kumho Ecsta SPT's. 205-50-R17 in front for the 7" wide rim, and 225-45-R17's for the 8" rears. I think these sizes might fit the best going by their spec chart...but I could be wrong. Using different profiles (50 front and 45 rear) will be 25" and 25.1" diameter tire, respectively. This will give me roughly equal tire / wheel heights. If I go with the 45 series on both, (but 215 instead of 205 on the front) it would be 24.6" front and 25.1" rear diameters. This is closer to the stock diameter in front, but then the tire / wheel heights will be 1/2" different. What do our resident experts recommend? Am I making this into a bigger deal than it needs to be? Here are the rims: http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=874333&postcount=23 Any input is appreciated... Thanks! -hughdogz

Okay gang, here we go with some test fitment pics! This is what the P.O. had installed on the Z. Enkei 17x7.5" (+38? offset). They have 5.75" backspacing so that is why they needed 1.25" (32mm) wheel adapters. The tires are Falken Ziex 512's 215-50-R17. They come within about 1/4->3/8" from hitting the strut tube and it looks like the tire has rubbed some on the strut tube already. So with the adapters, the Enkei's are 4.5" backspacing and mounting face to outside is 4". Now the Volks in front are 7" with +44 offset. That would give them (7"+1")/2 +44mm - 32mm adapter => 4" + 12 mm => ~4.5" backspace. From mounting face to outside is 3.5". That makes it stick out 1/2 inch less than my current setup. The same holds true for the rear. Hmm...I could go with a 1.75" (44 mm) adapters, but I'm not going to sweat it for now. Test mounted: Cheers, -hughdogz

Hi Guys, I'm not sure if this has been covered before, but I thought I'd share... Once in awhile I see members asking the admins (or admins asking the member) to edit the title of their thread. It is possible to edit your own title, delete your message, or add smileys by going into what I call Super - edit mode. You can edit your post within 24 hours of the post and: After pressing the edit button, you can only edit the message text Press the edit button again (the second edit button) and voila! There are a lot more options. Later! -hughdogz ps: if this is old news, I know how to delete it! LOL...

Well I finally did it. I found a deal that I couldn't pass up! I'll be sportin' these new wheels soon. No more Honda rims for me! They barely fit in front, there is maybe a 1/4" space between the inside edge of the rim to the strut tube. I need to be careful selecting tire section widths to minimize any rubbing issues. I would like to have a stiff sidewall, but not a stretched look. I would like as wide of a tread as possible, but minimze sidewall deflection or rubbing in front. I'm thinking of going with some Kumho Ecsta SPT's. 205-50-R17 in front for the 7" wide rim, and 225-45-R17's for the 8" rears. I think these sizes might fit the best going by their spec chart...but I could be wrong. Using different profiles will give 25" and 25.1" diameter wheels. If I go with the 45 series on both, it would be 24.6" and 25". Here is a cool little Youtube about their manufacturing process.

Is it just me? This seems to be happening more often lately. When I do a preview post, the correct smiley is shown, but after I submit it, the smiley changes. E.g.: 1) The yellow face with the winking eye ";)" changes to the blue smiley with a winking eye ":wink:" 2) The Blue face eek smiley ":eek:" changes to the yellow face eek ":eek:" smiley I think the "icon ID" mapping may not be correct. I thought it might just be my Mozilla Firefox on Linux, but it happens with my IE7 on WinXP also. Not really a big deal, but thanks for any help! Cheers, -Hugh

I remember that one! Wasn't there a vid that showed the engine was still running? I'm 72.4% sure it's the real deal. I wish there was a way to snopes.com a photo...

I think it would look cool as hell. I remember seeing a photo of an S30 with T-tops from an S130. IIRC, the coupe T-tops will fit better than the longer 2+2 T-tops. The coupe T-tops are almost exactly the same length as the top of the S30 window frame, almost like Nissan meant for this modification to be possible! My only concern would be that you should add reinforcement to account for less torsional rigidity, etc. of the unibody. [edit: naviathan beat me to it!] [second edit: Okay, after reading the older thead on this, even if properly done, it will compromise the structural integrity of the unibody too much. It's not worth it IMHO. Sorry to be such a floppy-fish about it...]

Whoo hoo! Second page...I was wondering when I would get here.. Just to let you know what I've been up to...the car drives smooth now around town and on the freeway, despite the fact that I've only corrected a small portion of the map. I used no boost controller except the stock wastegate since I knew it would stop at ~6.9 psi. I still have a long way to go to finish the map using the stock turbo. I ended up using the tedious spreadsheet method to calculate the corrected injector opening time. Bo gave me some safe target AFR's for a few load ranges up to 15 psi boost. I have only tuned it to 4750 rpm at 7psi (8th-9th row of load cells?). This was a freeway pull in 4th gear, with cold ambient air temperature. At zero to low load, I'm already maxing out to 1 ms minimum open time while my AFR's are still on the rich side (I hear this can be a common problem). Also, I'm having trouble cold starting with less than 6-7 cranks. I tried increasing the starting injector opening time from 6 -> 7 ms, but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. It is strange that the CHTS sensor still causes the CHT to climb to 101 C (sometimes). But it only stays there for a short time and cools back down once the thermostat opens. This only happens when I let it get to operating temperature idling. The coolant temp gauge is only 1/8 of the way up at this time. I don't think it has hurt anything so far...I wonder if it had this characteristic in stock form. Now I think I'm brave enough to take it to ~5500 RPM. But first I'll try to tune the PWM boost controller aiming at 3psi to start. This approach should be pretty safe as long as I keep my foot out of it before I reach 7psi. I'm planning to take it to the late night drags @ PIR this Saturday (weather permitting) to datalog heavier loads and higher RPM's. It's difficult to tune on the street with all the traffic and paranoia of cops... I've been taking advantage of the rain by installing some new gages too. New boost / vac gage, and a Nordskog wideband AFR running from the LM1. The hardest part was wiring so that the LED lighting would be dim enough at night. Otherwise, I think it is going relatively smooth. I believe I can have it tuned it in time for MSA. I don't want to break the bank buying too much fuel if I'm running rich. I need to configure the injector cutout a closed throttle above say 1700 rpm. Thanks for reading this, Best regards, -hughdogz

Awesome! Looks really clean aarang, nice job!! You're right, that is a really clean way to route the vent tubes. Did the ported head and turbo cam make a big difference in power? Do you recall the cam specs by chance? I totally dig your S130T. I hope we can meet up someday!

LOL! You had me going hook, line and sinker! PSYCHE! That was Awesome.

Hi Monzter, I apologize if this was explained already, but how are the offset runners being manufactured? I can see how the charge box can be CNC'ed, but I figured you were going to do a rapid prototypes, then get the pieces investment casted. Cheers!

Of course not! We ALL learned that in High School...

You can, but this may limit how much you can clock your compressor without interfering with the 90 degree fitting. How much boost are you running? I found that there is a lot more blow-by at 12psi than say 9psi. Even if you have a catch-can, it may not seperate out all the oil. I'd rather not take any chances of losing efficiency by the compressor turbine blades getting all gummed up and fouling of the IC. Who knows, it may also damage exposed element air temperatire sensors. My stock throttle body plate was so nasty and gummed up, it had to be caused by years of blow-by recirculation. Since you are probably running no more than 9psi, no IC and the stock IAT sensor (located in the AFM) it is working for you.

Yeeeow! It looks like the Holset can suck in the entire T3 and spit it out without even coughing!

See, I said that I'm guessing it is a spoof since I'm not 110% sure it is(although I'm 99.9% sure it is a spoof). I thought a "blow through ignition" was B.S. but there really is such a thing...using depleted uranium nodules as Tony D pointed out in the blow through ignition thread

"a super-native weinal sprocket..." "...a drawn reciprocation dingle-arm" "...$59 billion dollars" "...electro-technicher schtatascher donna-blitzer" I'm guessing it is a spoof.