hughdogz

The "bark" is a new feature in the WolfV500

Ahhh...I thought it would be a full article, not just the "featured member" of the various internet z-clubs page. Is the "car of the quarter" a new feature? Well, maybe they will do a full coverage article once they see how cool your Z is!

I can't remember for sure, but I jumped up and down a couple times!! I was so tired with only three hours of sleep the night before. The happy dance was more of a mental surreal feeling, lol.

Wiki D! Great info. Thanks for the edification.

Yeah John!!

No Doubt! I'm really looking forward to learning how to tune using the Innovate LM-series system. I just want to say that I couldn't have done this without all of Ron Tyler's help, guidance and advice. He never gave up on me no matter how many "stupid" questions I asked. Bo, Paul and jgkurz helped me out a lot too! Thanks so much guys!!

April 25-27, 2008 I know I'm a little early, but I just found that I could already register! Anyone else planning to go? If so, when are you planning on leaving? I'll be going no matter what, as long as I can get my Z back together in time:flamedevi Hopefully I'll have somone to caravan with.

I'd jump on this one for $900 Cheers,

I heard something about that too, but only for models to stay in Japan. The factory installs some kind of GPS that records your speed and if you want to go above a certain KPH, you have to do it at the track and get the factory to reset it for a fee. Not sure if that last part is true though. http://www.engadget.com/2007/12/22/nissan-gt-r-disables-speed-limiter-on-race-tracks-via-gps/

Hey Guys, I'm getting so close to having the Wolf run the engine. Today, I was able to verify the ignition timing. CAS sensor hookup caused a little snag, but it was figured out over the weekend (thanks to Ron's help). At first, I couldn't get the timing light to flash using the Magnecor wires. Bo (KTM) reminded me that those are really well shielded...so I used a Taylor wire just for timing purposes ;o) I got to the point of firing the injectors, but I noticed the Wolf telling me that the battery started getting real low (10.3 Volts) so I thought I'd better trickle charge it overnight before I continued. I need to check to see if the Wolf is properly set for the low impedence RX7 injectors since it didn't seem as though they were operating. Once I solve this last issue, it should fire right up! Still haven't figured out the Tach & adapter yet. I'll wait until I know it runs, then start removing the stock ECU and FI harness. Then I should be able to find the factory tack wire easily. Installing an LMA-3 datalogger in the ECU spot will hopefully work well. Woo hoo! I can't wait to hear my baby purr again and start tuning.

+1 Looks nice! I think it blends in quite well.

Check out Aziza Z. It has a dash from a 240SX installed. I've also seen a 240Z with a 350Z interior and engine, etc. at the MSA show (year before last, I believe) I wouldn't mind using use the S2k push button start though.

Maybe I'm confusing everyone here. CheapTurbos = Ken = PHX turbos. Same company / owner. JSM, I didn't take it that you were knocking him. In fact you confirmed that he sells genuine products. Aux, I think the guy from Tial would know for sure if CheapTurbos was not an authentic Tial reseller. (at first I though you were saying that I emailed him with my posting reply! ) It's all good. I really like the CheapTurbo prices, quality and Knowledge of their products.

It had better not be fake! I ordered a T3/T04E from Ken in early December. It has been at his powdercoaters since last year. I've called so many times on it, and it is always scheduled to ship out at the end of next week! Last Friday I called and he says it will ship out this Tuesday. I'm not trying to say anything negative, in fact the guy is very knowledgeable really nice on the phone. I ordered a custom setup, which was a ceramic coated Ford 5-bolt turbine housing. I've been told the great powdercoater vendor is what is taking so long. In all due respect, he told me to get ready for a wait...I didn't think would be nearly three months though. My advice is that if you're running into time constraints, skip powdercoating and get that done locally. It has been mentioned before that as a rule of thumb, if your machinist or engine builder quotes and estimated time, you should double it (to be safe)! I'm sure I'll be happy with the unit, I just wanted to give a "heads-up" as well for other HBZ members...

Ouch? I meant that I thought the title was being sarcastic. I'll shut up now.

I thought "teh" was there on purpose, maybe it meant the the same as "pffff" = whatever. I thought it was part of the joke.

Offset is the distance from the centerline of the rim to the mounting surface. If the mounting surface was exactly at the rim centerline, then it would be zero offset. If the mounting surface is outward of of the centerline, it is positive offset. Negative offset is inward. To quote from JohnCoffey, offset doesn't matter, offset doesn't matter, offset doesn't matter. It is overall width and backspacing you're concerned about. Offset only plays a role in how deep the "dish" is. Positive offset is less appealing to me than negative or zero in this regard, since there will be less dish. Say that you have a 7 in rim with zero backspace. This gives you 7" width (inside to inside where the tire beads mount) + 1" for the thicknesses of tire mounting flange. The zero offset would put the backspace at 4 inches. Now, with an 8" rim +1" would give you 4.5" backspacing at zero offset. You can see that offset doesn't tell the whole picture. If you have too much positive offset (in reality too much backspace) the inside of the rim will hit the strut tube (or the tire will hit the spring perch) when you mount the wheel. You can put the rim further out using a spacer to decrease the backspace.

I used to be into those. It got to be too expensive and too much maintenance for me. Back in the early '90's I had a pretty high-tech setup...0-80 gallon wet/dry filter (still have it), 3-foot tall protein skimmer and an ozone generator (couldn't spring for the UV). My favorites were the moray eels, volatin lionfish, porcupine puffer, sea bass, flame angels, bunch of different triggerfish (those are bad-ass), etc. Fun times except when they died once in awhile. I tried to get a reef tank going, but they are even more $$$ than a vertebrate tank! It was funny. One day I go to college and tell all my friends I got Crabs! lol! There is a place in Oregon called classic aquariums that had chillers and the whole setup for cold marine. It would be cool to go diving and catch your own pets.

Are you talking about datsun40146 with his mac & cheese title? I don't get it either. I think "MRE Envy" would be more fitting!

I agree that it could be more efficient with a fan shroud. But I haven't had any cooling issues yet, so I haven't really needed to address any problem. Even on 90+ degree days I can be in stop & go traffic idling away and my temp never goes above 5/8. I think the 22"x18" core Ron Davis radiator might have something to do with it. It could be that a shrouded electric fan could actually reduce airflow through the radiator at speed if it's not running or is running full blast. It that is true, then having it totally open with a stock fan like I have isn't too bad in this regard. If I get serious, I'll use a PWM controller like BJHines is doing. I think the trick will be finding the right size low-profile shrouded dual fan setup. I barely have four inches between the radiator and the water pump pulley and I'm sure the mounting bracket will take up space too. Plus, I don't have shroud mounts like the stock radiator, so I can't do a bracket setup like Zmanco's. Flex-a-lite sells a 21.5" x 17.5" but it may not work for me since it is a singe fan style. Pilgrim brings up a good point about upgrading the alternator. 280ZX's only have a 60 amp alternator (unless you can get one from an '82 turbo, that one is 70 amps). The average-sized electric fan draws ~20 amps!! You can buy plug & play alternators that are either 105 or 120 amps. I pasted a link in BigPhil's thread about ebay alternators.

I know what it was like being a student strapped for cash. There were a couple of semesters when I could only afford to eat Top Ramen and Krusteaz pancakes! I attended as many society meetings as I could for their free pizza. My donation expires in March. Since I use HBZ more and more each year, I was thinking 1st year $20, next year $40... I wonder if instead of donating $40 next year, I could donate $20 for me, $20 for you. In the end, I'd still be donating $40 to HBZ, lol.

Sunday at the show is when the vendors show up. It is in Oak Canyon park. There are events Friday, Saturday at various other places. I don't think they bring loads and loads of these things. I believe I bought their only set one year and a friend of mine bought their only set the previous year (at least the turbo ones). It would be great if you could somehow contact them and make sure they bring the ones you're looking for. Datsun Freeway website scroll halfway down the page and you'll see they attended. Bunch of cools pics of the show too.

Damn. I guess you're stuck with Baaa....aaa....aaa for now [Edit: I just realized it is a nickel a day for $20 donation. I'm getting a bargain!]