hughdogz

$5 buys you a gallon and a half of gas these days. How can you afford to drive?

jdizzy, those Sakuras on the S130 in your sig look HOT!! Damn! I really want some CCW's or Sakuras but they are $$$

Logged in this morning and saw my new title! Thanks Braap and Ron. I feel like Steve Martin the the Jerk Movie: I'm in PRINT!! I'm in PRINT!!!

:rockon:Zmanco Rocks!! See, this wasn't a "worthless thread" IMHO.

m1ghtymaxXx, I agree an electric fan will make it much easier, but it is totally possible to do with the stock fan still in place (old pic for contrast): Granted I'm using 2.25" tube, but it seems to me like squeezing in a 3-incher wouldn't be that much wider at all. 2.25" has just a little over half the cross-sectional area as a 3" would, so that's half the volume to pressurize (at the expense of increased drag though). ...Now i'm really getting off topic! I think you can get different fan clutches and blades. This one may sit more forward than others to clear the additional power steering and A/C belts. Electric fans are great, especially if you can get a variable speed controlled one. I noticed that when you mount them with fasteners through the radiator fins (I think most of us have done it this way) instead of a bracket, each time the fan cycles on/off you're going to get a pretty good torque. This stretches out the holes more and more over time, but I think a variable speed might eliminate some of that.

I can't remember for sure but $30-45 each wouldn't surprise me.

Nice! '81 was a great year for Z's and ZX's since we could finally get a factory Turbo! Are you going to keep it A/T or go for a 5-speed? Looks great Man.

We have COMMUNICATION!! I borrowed a different laptop from the graphics lab at work and sure enough, COM1 worked and so did COM4 with the adapter. My engine temp, and air temp both seem to be registering...just a bit high at 20 and 22 Celsius respectively (68 & 72 F) when it is really in the 50's. The TPS % does move when I go through the range, but 0-20% is all I get even after a little tweaking. So far, so good I guess. Also, I got the fuel rail to completely stop leaking too! But when I went to put the EV1 connector(s) on, it wedged in between the rail and the injector causing the o-ring to lose it's seal. All I have to do is notch out the rail a little, install new o-rings and I think I'm good for fuel. Man 'o Man...I'm so relieved and happy now. I was beginning to think that I wouldn't make it this far. Who knows, maybe I'll have it running again soon and the tuning fun can begin!

Yes Sir. I found that Datsun Freeway has a website, but it is still under construction. They have been at the MSA W.C.N. for the last 4-5 years. They had a vendor booth last year. Previous years you could catch them lugging around their mechandise on a airport luggage roller-rack thing. Save your duckets. I'm sure they'll be back again this year!

Click

http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/31?osCsid=1a8c066c167c56fdbae298603eee4753 I bought two of the 105 amps (one for my 260 and one for my ZXT). I used to replace my Optima battery once a year. I've never had one fail yet with one of these babies. They already have the correct bushing for the adjuster and the correct pulley. Knowing you BigPhil, you would want the 120 amp model. I know it is a little spendy, but it is totally plug-n-play! HTH, -hughdogz

Since you posted in the S130 forum, I assume you're looking for 2nd gen "period correct" FairladyZ emblems. I know they sell them since I bought a set about four years ago from a vendor at the MSA show. I believe they were from the "Datsun Freeway" company. IIRC, they visit from Japan just for the show. I only have the ones for the front fenders "FairladyZ Turbo"...I don't think they had them for the rear deck. You can almost make it out here: HTH, -Hugh [Edit: the S130 n/a would use "Fairlady 280Z" Here is a real Fairlady 280Z for the location: ]

Well I finally got the Wolf to power on!! I still have some minor leaking issues on the fuel rail to deal with (not around the injectors, but the fittings). It still just barely leaks at the threads of a 3/8" NPT fitting. Maybe it is just residue...I'll check again tomorrow. So far I've spent two days trying to get the rail to stop leaking. I've even gone as far as trimming the ends so I don't run out of threads on the fitting. I might have to try a new fitting since I threaded the fitting in so far that it started cutting a new thread. Before I trimmed the ends the sucker was dribbling like it had an STD. The reason why is that it was originally set up for brass barbed fittings and not NPT => AN. Also, for some reason the Com1 port on my laptop from work isn't functioning. I have a USB->Com port adapter but it doesn't work either. I'll have to go to Fry's tomorrow and see if I can get a hold of one that will. Until I can figure out the communication issue, I can't sequence the trigger / spark yet or see if sensors are functioning properly. If I have to, I'll get a new 14mm o-ring rail and bigger injectors. I have my eyes on some from racetronix . I would like to get some like these 65lb/hr (MSD / Holley) - Low-Z FM or even bigger. But before I do that I need to figure out how big I can go without running into too rich of an AFR at idle. I read that after I buy them, I can have them sent to Motor Man to get import pintle caps installed so they'll fit my N42 intake. I'll probably just give Motor Man a call to see how his prices for reconditioned units compare to the racetronix new ones. Sorry for my rambling...after breathing gas fumes all day and running into more roadblocks that I made for myself, I needed somewhere to vent!! I hope I don't still smell like gas when I go to work tommorrow. Laterz, -Hugh

Awesome Man!! I love the ending too. Nothing like waking up on a Sunday morning and watching a new BigPhil video to get you going

I totally agree Prox, that was a typo on my part. I knew somone would prove me wrong I found a Wiki that explains pretty much the same thing you mentioned. Sorry Monzter, back on topic...I wonder if it would be worth looking at the swirl pattern having just one (or two) open at a time?

I think I have the idle air figured out now. Notice that I flipped the idle regulator 180 degrees. I think it fits much better now. You can see wires for the TPS, trigger, idle air and IAT sensors coming out of the harness are wrapped with friction tape. Also a better pic of the modified distributor cap: The hose feeds into a brass 90 degree fitting that I made another bung for. It is on the side of my intake charge pipe. If I had my wits about me when I made my IAT bung, I would have incorperated a 1/4" NPT tapped hole so it would all be hidden! Oh well, live and learn...but hey, no more Airflow meter!! Okay, back to work...I'm almost ready to see if the "green light" will come on.

Are you sure it is the core and not just the valve or one of the hoses? Gabe (WigenoutS30) said he used a Honda valve to replace his leaky one. Honda fans are a popular mod, heck maybe a Honda heater core will work too!

I could be wrong here, but I seem to remember from my thermo class the bigger reason to used staged compressors is to reduce the total amount of entropy (and thus efficiency) i.e. The total entropy is less across sixteen stages than one stage assuming the overall pressure drop is the same. I'm sure there are many here that are WAY more knowledgeable than me, so if I'm proved wrong I won't be that surprised...

Thanks for that link Worldson. That really helped me understand how the AAR works. Initially, I re-located mine so the in / out would remain the same. However, it fits much better now that I flipped it around. Since there isn't a check valve, I think I'm still safe flipping it around? I wish there was an easy way to retain the hookup for the coolant passage though...

My buddie's 53 VW beetle had one of those ragtops (and turn signal flags that would swing out of the b-pillars when you pulled the lever ). The top actually worked pretty good, it just slides back on rails like a curtain. The one on the Z doesn't look that tight to me though.

Impressive!! You would definitely win any contest for shortest IC pipe.

I searched like MJ said and SuperDan said it is purely based on number of posts...I thought I read somewhere that it used to be the case but not anymore. Not that it really matters to me, as long as I don't get banned.

Hey Masew congrats on the swap!! (and the movie) :icon14:

I found these recently on youtube. Hope they're not a repost... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBd4zdsFMr8 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enMDCVKVjUc <= Here it is! Maybe the 30-somethings can relate when I say that my favorite Stomper 4x4's were the Subaru brat and 280ZX

Now I have to throw in my $0.02 (even though I'm still an amature). I've used probably 20-30 weatherpacks so far. To crimp these correctly, you need a special crimping tool and the removal tool like Jerryb mentioned is really handy. Also, the terminals and seals come in 18-20ga, 14-16, 10-12, etc. Be careful what you order because the terminals cannot be re-used. As KTM said, use these in places where you might need to disconnect a sub-harness. As far as juction resistance goes, I don't think there is much difference between soldered versus crimped, as long as they are both good quality. Not sure if this is true, but I heard they don't allow soldered joints on aircrafts. I believe what it really comes down to is how strong the connection is (and how well it is sealed to protect against corrosion). You want try to avoid 90 degree soldered junctions. If you do solder, double wall shrink tubing is really good. It will stiffen the wires and the junction keep movement to a minimum. Uninsulated butt connectors used with double wall shrink tubing has much better strain relief than insulated butt connectors. Ring terminal connections are less prone to vibration and less likely to get pulled out than push-on spade terminals. I'm also guessing that with a butt connector, you can crimp a really good compressive stress in the terminals and it would have a little less resistance than between pushed-on terminals. Other great tools are those screwdriver-looking continuity testers and 12V testers. Hope this helped... [Edit: There is also "friction tape" that is much better than regular electrical tape. It doesn't have adhesive, you stretch it on and it holds and is even semi-reuseable.]