hughdogz

I'm sure you'd like to have as big as you can get. Check out Guy80LT1's project page. He did a real nice job on installing Autometer gauges for the instrument and center clusters.

Plus the FPR for SU carbs is REALLY big compared to the stock FI regulator, I think you would have noticed.

Sweet! Sounds pretty bada$$ to me.

I know you're going to kill me for asking this, but did you put a carburated engine fuel pressure regulator on there? It sounds like that is what's happening. Either that or you put the gauge in the return instead of the inlet, but that doesn't sound right either since you said it IS in the inlet. Well, it won't be running too rich now! Huh...wierd. Somone will reply with more knowledge than me.

More wise comments Gollum! I'm probably going to stick with my recirculation setup for the new Turbo. I hope it still works well. I'm still foggy on how the HKS surge tanks work (and Monzter's holy grail project) with regard to having the BOV attached to it venting to atmosphere. I believe you need either ITB's or tripples...I'm guessing it keeps the turbo spooled as much as possible and bleeds off the unnecessary charge. I wanted to have the BOV attached to the intake manifold that I plan to make, but I'm pretty sure you would need throttle plates after the manifold in order for it to work.

Ahh…I get it now. Thanks for explaining this guys. I seem to remember the stock bypass valve connection openings on the J-Pipe and 4th intake runner couldn’t be much bigger than ½”-3/4” (~12-18mm). That (maybe also the type of valve) would definitely be a bottleneck considering most BOV / recirculation valve are perhaps 38mm+. Yes, you are right that there is a difference between a safety pop valve and a Blow-off / recirculation valve. The stock L28ET does employ a sort of bypass valve which is what I was wondering about, not the safety pop valve. Good summary of why you need a good BOV / recirc valve ‘83! So, this leads me to a new question of whether or not I should run my HKS recirc valve as recirculating or vent to atmosphere after I install my T3/T04E this summer. I need to reseach more. Cheers Guys!

Yasin, I look up to you for taking the correct action and not losing your cool (I know you were steamed, but you witheld from getting physical). So, now that we're telling war stories, lol... I grew up in a suburb outside Chicago and my friend "Dennis the menace" was bragging about hitting cars passing in front of his house with get this...FROZEN ORANGES!! Well, one guy he hit got out of his car. Dennis went inside the house to hide. The guy KICKS IN the locked front door! Dennis said he hid behind the couch and the guy couldn't find him. Gaaah! The crazy stupid, disrespectful things we do as kids...

Oh man, Paul when you showed me how aggressive the cam for Roger's engine was, my jaw dropped open! I've never seen a lobe undercut the main shaft before. I wonder when Roger will get it installed. Is he still waiting on eye-browing the pistons? (Sorry the the thread jack)

What the...?! You guys are right! Oops! BAD typo, Bad typo. Maybe I should get dumbest smart guy title back (just kidding Paul).

Hi Gollum, I don't doubt anything you and Mario said about being able to boost to 10psi. Those are good points you make about making sure your AFR's don't go too lean. When my bone stock L28ET was at the dyno I was running lean above say 4750 RPM. Also, doesn't the stock L28ET manifold have a built-in bypass valve (to protect against surging) for when the throttle valve shuts? Why is a BOV so important with regard to boosting above 7psi if the stock bypass valve is working as it should? I'm not trying to argue with you guys, and you're probably more on spot than me, but I just want some more insight into your reasonings. Thanks and Best regards, -Hugh

I know this won't help any, but congratulations on getting the MegaSquirt up and running!! Good Job Lukaniuk!

I think your O2 sensor is fine. If you can display the AFR ratio, you can test it by breathing on it compared to free air.

I also made my own MBC using a 1-way adjustable valve from Grainger / McMaster-Carr. Anyhoo, if I were to buy an MBC today, I'd go with one of these bad boys: Hallman! (clicky) [Edit: Like Mario said, drill the rivet on top just enough to pop the cover off. This way the cap will stay put when it is back on. You can get bigger washers and find a stiff spring from the hardware store and shim the valve shut. But you shouldn't be boosting more than ~9psi non-intercooled, I guess you can do ten but I'd be using hi-octane gas for sure.]

No worries abw! We knew what you meant when you said it was a '79 (and the locking gas cap). I was just trying to give you a hard time, that's all.

Warren, Great information. Thanks! I somehow missed the part where abw said he doesn't have ANY keys. If a US-spec Z is a '79, doesn't that make it a ZX?

Good thing it isn't locked on there with no gas left in the tank! I would take it to a locksmith to see if they can match it to your ignition key. Otherwise, you can buy another one from MSA (clicky) ($34) but then you might have three seperate keys to tote around... Which reminds me, I have to find my cap key. I had to buy a new cap from MSA one year since I forgot the cap at the pump somewhere between LA and San Diego. We're not allowed to pump our own gas in Oregon, so I was out of my element!

I dunno. Perhaps there is some hidden meaning there, or else it wouldn't all fit

You should be able to buy a fitting especially made for this. It will eiher be a tee or just a coupler that is tapped for 1/8" NPT (for the FP gauge). 5/16" brass barbed ends and you're good to go! Something like this (maybe it will be hard to find 5/16" barbed ends): http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MRG%2D2975&N=700+115&autoview=sku

I LIKE it! Thanks BRAAP ...I was living up to the "Dumbest Smart Guy" name too much, bah. DogZhuge was cool, but not everyone knows my best friend is a 130+ pound Akita...

I wish "wipe your drool of my Z" would fit. I cannot wait to check out your ride at MSA 280ZForce!!

Whoo hoo! Lookin' good. Hey, I have those same injectors (although I thought they were 460cc/min). Who knows what they actually flow until you get them flow-tested.

Try to get gauge mounted inline just before the fuel rail inlet. You're looking for 43 psi with the vacuum line detached (plug the detached hose). Depending upon how much vacuum you're pulling at idle, it will probably be around 36 psi at idle with the vacuum line attached (assuming 7 psi vacuum manifold gage pressure).

Check to see if the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator is not cracked or leaking. (good call MJ)

Hi Mike, I believe the inhibitor switch itself is be bolted to the auto tranny externally, but I'm not sure. You should check with Ruel. He just got done doing nearly the same swap two weeks ago (although the swap was Auto to a T5, not a Nissan 5-speed). If you look in the Haynes manual, the inhibitor switch uses five wires. Ruel did the trial and error method to figure out which ones to jump together so it will start. Good luck! -Hugh