hughdogz

LOL! Thanks John, that made my day. I have a spare Encabulator for sale in case anyone is interested...only 56 billion $ (j/k)

If you decide to keep the idle regulator, here is a good relocation point if you've already deleted the A/C: For the inlet, I just tied into the charge pipe between the intercooler and throttle body (inlet shown plugged). Basically you just have to route the inlet / outlet before and after the throttle plate.

I think it is best to keep the PCV valve. Reason being is that with just a filter on the crankcase vent tube, it is not really sucking the bad gasses out. The gasses may slip through a filter, but eventually the filter will get clogged with oil and then you have no crankcase ventilation. Also, the cam cover vent will need to be hooked back up as well. Mine currently has a breather filter on now, but it really should get vacuumed out post turbine (with a check valve). I see what you're dealing with. The stock ZXT intake has the PCV valve forward of the compressor outlet. The N42 has the PCV valve right above the compressor outlet. You have two choices, either use that 90 degree fitting (I think that is what is in your pic) and mount the PCV horizontally to clear the compressor outlet, or you can plug the stock hole and drill and tap a new hole (I'm pretty certain it is 1/4" NPT) forward enough to clear the compressor outlet (2" should be enough). I'm also using an oil catch-can between the crankcase vent tube and the relocated PCV valve. Hope this helped milez...

I saw that too, but S130's aren't in the list. It probably won't just bolt in. I guess I'm not the only one looking at this auction. I didn't notice that deja has looked at the same LSD in his thread. I agree with him that a 2-way may be too aggresive for the street.

Right on. Thanks for your time guys! I'll keep looking and researching more. Quaife, Cusco, KAAZ, Precision Gear, Power Brute, etc...they must make one that would work specifically for my Z!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KAAZ-...spagenameZWDVW Hi Guys, It has 29 spline output. I searched and searched and I couldn't find what size shafts my CV axles have. If I can get it for under $500 it seems like a good deal. Having a 2-way LSD should still be street-able? Thanks for any info. -Hugh

The U.S. still hasn't built any new refineries in the past 25 years, so even if production of crude does go up (and the price of crude drops), we will still have the refinery bottleneck and prices won't be dropping any time soon... The price for diesel fuel went waaaay up since the reformulation to low-sulfur.

I could be wrong, but that looks like the Kaminari (NOT Kameari) airdam, side skirts, rear valance. MSA used to sell them but they may be NLA. Those are 006's (not 007's my mistake, 007's don't even exist!) I wonder what the + offset is on those: http://www.sportmaxwheel.com/sportmax_006.shtml It doesn't look like they give you an offset choice... Sportmax 006's in 17x7" fronts and 17x9" rears would look great on my ZX but the lip is smaller than I'm looking for. Plus, I really want to get away from wheel adapters (spacers). If Rota ever makes a RB-R 17x 7.5" in the -4 offset I'll go with those in a staggered fitment along with some 8.5 inch'ers in the rear . Otherwise, I'm going to save up for some CCW's.

Whoa! My suspicion was actually correct for once! Your "low-tech" tool is quite ingenious Roger! Glad you got it sorted out!

Dang!! Awesome link.

Didn't 240Hoke have his exhaust mani and DP wrapped? Maybe coated + wrapped is a bad idea?! I was planning on coating and wrapping my DP and possibly my exhaust manifold...so you guys are saying this is a "no-no"?

Philbertz, This is posted in the wrong forum. This is for Electramotive engine management. For a lot of the boots (injectors, TPS) you can simply use shrink tubing of the proper size. Harbor Freight has a kit with all different sizes that say they are good to 250 degrees F. [Edit: If you're talking about the connectors themselves, you can get them off ebay or del city has those EV1 connectors cheap! If you want better ones than stock, go with the GM style ones where you don't have to pick at a clip]

Hi MJ, I believe the nut that holds the strut in the tube is called a "gland nut". Have you tried using a pipe wrench to remove it yet? First give it a good spray with some liquid wrench or some other penetrant. Then lay the strut on the ground and hold it down with your foot and use a ~24" (at least) pipe wrench. I would be really surprised if you cannot remove it using this technique. Maybe you already tried this though... HTH, -hughdogz [Edit: vvv John is right. Sorry...Forget what I said! ]

:lmao:Haha! Good one Careless. You got me...I looked back at my post and you're right racecar was spelled backwards! My favorite is "Mad Dog" spelled backwards. Every time I took a slug off our shoplifted Mad Dog 20 / 20's in high school, I'd say the name backwards, lol.

I don't know if JDM had the "Euro" split front indicators for an S130, but something else to watch out for.

^^^ Saweeet! I'll take two sets please...

I remember my buddy had this same sort of situation in his ~70 Chevy pickup. He tried for hours to put that clip back on, but it was like the steering column shortened?! After watching his frustration for a little while, I went under the hood, pushed up on the steering linkage toward the cabin, and Voila! I told him "now that's thinking outside the box...er cabin!" lol. He let the shaft slide down into the column just enough so the clip wouldn't go back on. I don't know if this will help you situation, but it is something to check out. I just removed the steering wheel hub last weekend on my ZX. I'm soooo glad I resisted the urge to remove the spring because something was tempting me to do so.

It would be cool if you could somehow find a low-priced Cusco LSD for the R200 in my '82 ZXT. You probably would want to check it instead of carry-on though. I know there are a couple guys here that want "Fairlady 280Z" badges for their restoration or just for the JDM bling...

Interesting...I never realized they work along with the stock regulator. I heard it works great for some and not for others. Unless you could control the rate at which it rises, then it may be hard to control. I hate to say it, but how to increase the fuel pressure on the stock FI has been discussed in detail many times, I found out about those tricks from searching HBZ! There is a reason why so many of us have gone to megasquirt, etc. You may actually lose HP installing say a header or bigger cam if you don't address the fuel problem properly because of the way the Bosch L-jetronic EFI is limited in it's adjustability. Either that or you'll be so pig rich at idle and low engine loads, that you could have fouling problems...not to mention emissions and gas prices these days.

Ahhh...I see. You could try bumping up the static pressure of the stock FPR and that might get you where you want to be. Just take off the vac hose and get a big socket and tap the housing down to increase the preload on the valve spring inside (I'm pretty sure that's the side you want to modify). But, getting more fuel by increasing the fuel pressure is not the same as going to bigger injectors or increasing the injector opening time. i.e. If you double the fuel pressure, that doesn't necessarily mean you will double the fuel injected. You can also squirt more fuel using the stock FI by putting in a resistor, or better yet a potentiometer inline with the engine temp sensor, fooling the computer into thinking the engine is cold so it will inject more fuel... Another way is to reset the teeth or adjust tension inside the airflow meter... If the MSA one is the one I'm thinking of, it is a rising rate AFPR. It is different from a normal AFPR. Instead of 1 psi increase in fuel pressure for every increase in manifold pressure, it may do 2:1 (for instance) but it is more than 1:1. As far as easy plumbing goes to tie into the stock fuel rail, you could stay with barbed (brass) fittings and still use high-pressure FI hose (5/16"). You would definitely want to install a gage as well. People usually install a billet fuel rail and use AN hoses and fittings to make the plumbing neater and bigger than 5/16". Hope this helped...to be honest these tricks are kind of a "stop gap" (at best) and are not meant to be a substitute for a properly programmed ECU.

The best performance? Not sure what you mean...either they adjust the fuel pressure according to manifold pressure or they don't. To be honest, there isn't a regulator that will give you more power or performance more than the stock one would (all else being equal). They just give easier adjustability of the static fuel pressure. You can bump up the fuel pressure of the stock regulator too, but unless you increase the amount of incoming air, and need the extra fuel, why enrich the mixture and lose power?

No worries! Crazyturbo, when can we see some videos or more pictures of your racecar? Thanks, -Hugh

The fun has begun!

Nah, the wolf's taco output is the dark-brown color "number two" ought gage!