hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/533777055.html
I'd buy it but I don't have room (or time) for a 5th zcar.
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Here they are.Finally some pics of my zxr.Paid 900 bucks for it.Needs motor work.Water in oil.
Sweet! I can't wait to see it in person Rob!! Thanks for coming by Saturday and showing me the pics.
[Edit: Hey, this is a good start for an S130 project page (nudge, nudge)]
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Hi Bo,
Do you think the spark may somehow be blowing out?
You mentioned you're using NGK BPRES7 gapped at 0.030". You probably have a good reason for running these, but why not the BPR6ES-11's? Haynes says 0.039-0.043" gap, but NGK says 0.044"...
I may be totally wrong about what plug we should be running with LS1 or Denso coils, but I'm curious why you're running a colder plug at a smaller gap than stock...
-hughdogz
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Hi MJ,
I also have an S30 with the rear bumper removed (early 260). I chose to leave the holes where the bumper dampers were going through. I figure it would allow trapped air to esacape, reducing drag. However, since the Gas tank is blocking a lot of the "scoop" I don't think it is a big a deal on the S30.
With my S130, it is a bigger problem since with an MSA bumper cover, it is like a HUGE scoop and I'm sure it creates some drag. I'm thinking about cutting vent holes in it!
HTH (and not too late)
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"Dude, I can fix it. My dad is a TV repairman and he's got this ultimate set of tools!"
Sorry, but that quote from Fast Times was all I could think when I saw those pics (I hope I didn't offend you lowrider)
Damn! Maybe it isn't totally totaled. Were you able to drive it home? If so did it drive straight? If the frame isn't tweaked too bad it may still be salvageable.
I'm glad you're still in one piece Man! You have my condolences.
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Not really a mod but some advice learned the hard way...
If at all possible, resist the temptation to impulse buy expensive parts or parts that "look like" they will work.
There should be a 72 hour "cool-down" period when considering purchases over ~$50. I'm still in the learning process.
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^^^ You are evil Ron.
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I think that the QUALITY of the wire is just as important, if not more than wire seperation.
A friend of mine recently bought a new set of Taylor wires and now his engine dies unexpectedly at idle and will even backfire and sputter at high RPMs. Even though they are seperated by nearly an inch (with minimal crossings) it seems that they still bleed a ton of EMI.
While at idle, he touched the boot at the coil to ensure it was properly seated and he got a REAL NICE shock!! I would think that the insulation should have prevented this.
I was wondering if there is an easy / inexpensive way to test the amount of EMI? I haven't seen a Gauss or Tesla meter at the local parts store...
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Not quite my style for either form or function. But, I'm sure there are others that would really like it.
I have limo tint on my 1/4's and they still have saved me a time or two from making a stupid highway lane change, even at night.
I wonder how it would look in combination with a Pantera-style hatch? Now that would be badass!
[Edit: Maybe that's why the Testarossas have the big side view mirrors that go way out to see around the blind spot??]
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Be care full with napa, one of those broke on me while torquing down a head AT CORRECT SPECS and its just snapped on me.
No kidding?! Ouch. I'm curious if it snapped at one of the sockets or just the shaft...not that it matters I guess.
I bet the Snap-On will not snap-off.
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^^^ Olderthanme, you got so caught up in camping stuff, you forgot to mention your fencing hobby.
Here are my "hobbies" in descending order:
1) Z-cars (of course)
2) Hanging out with my Akita dog
3) CAD modeling and Simulation (a spinoff from my career)
4) Playing guitar
5) Artifacting (well, I don't do this anymore since it has been illegal in Oregon for many years now)
6) Getting drunk and hanging out in bars, etc.
#6 used to be my #1 a while back, but I quit drinking completely...the money saved really helps the new #1 hobby!
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Hey Justin, have you seen this ad yet in autoparts?
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/519628339.html
Hopefully it is not too rusty...he says it is basically all there and even has a good interior and body panels!
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The ID on mine measures ~9/16" so it is probably 3/8"-18 NPT.
I think the question is really why you would need much bigger than -6AN? I think -8AN is overkill...there are plenty of high HP Z's on here are using -6 for fuel with no starvation problems.
This post will probably get tool sheded since it is basically a NPT tap size question: http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/I_Tap&DieChart.pdf
HTH -hughdogz
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Finally got the coil bracket installed. Sorry for the poor photo quality (again).
^^ Notice I had to cut a rectagular hole in the bracket to retain the CHTS.
I'm also going to have to relocate the knock sensor since it interferes with coil #4 as well as the bracket. Maybe lower down the block??
-hughdogz
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Hugh, That looks awesome man.. Did you polish it? or is that like a Jet hot coating? Looks great man!!!
Thanks for the props Gabe! Yeah, quite a bit of polishing went into it (not to mention sanding and wet-sanding!) I was considering a cerma-chrome coating when I first embarked on this endeavor but I'm not so sure now.
You can see blemishes where the filler aluminum is shinier than the stock alloy. Also, there is slight pitting in some of the welds from the trapped gasses because my welding skills aren't where they should be. I thought a coating would hide these and cut down on the heat transfer a little bit. I'm not sure you can polish the coating to a shine, but then again with a coating it will be one less thing to polish...hmm...
I don't know why I'm still so hung up on bling...Hybridz is slowly curing me of that ailment! Eventually I'll be making a custom one so I think my effort and $$ will be better spent somewhere else for now.
I still don't get it why some are saying that webbing and heat shields are so important. What are we worried about heating up? The manifold itself so it becomes an "interheater"? ...I can sort of see this as a problem at idle with stagnant air heating up. Heating the fuel in the rail? ...this might be a problem since I dead-headed my feed line. I know the vacuum hoses are a given problem where I have mine now.
It seems to me that a webbed manifold (without a heat shield) would add to the heat problem since there is more area for the radiant heat energy to transfer to, and it would trap more heat from the natural convection after the engine is turned off (or at idle). I must be missing something obvious.
It would be great to design an intake manifold with a "two-chamber" charge box like some others are already doing. Not sure why it is so much better than a single chamber (with volume ~1.5x the engine displacement). Something about converting the dynamic pressure to static pressure more efficiently??
Anyhoo, I want to thank everyone for their contributions to my post!
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Nice job Mopar!! It looks like you took your time.
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Hugh - ManyThanks! I didn't mean to hijack your thread. Drop me a line when you start running your manifold and putting some runs on it.
My very best - Yasin
Right on! It started up just fine yesterday. I had to adjust the idle screw two turns higher and lower my fuel pressure a tiny bit. I'll let you know how it goes.
No worries on a threadjack(?) I love seeing other before / after pics too. Especially the fully-custom stuff!!
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Alright, I finally admit that I bought one of these little boxes that (already) has a way of sucking up my time like a black hole...
I might be posting here with questions soon.
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I've been working on creating the sub-harnesses for the Wolf and I want to see if I can get the hardware installed in the next two weeks...we'll see about that.
Here is the "Ron Tyler style" power supply panel:
A little closer:
Outside:
New fuel rail and injector harness:
Coil harness:
Here is most of the system:
I also have an electronic boost controller (not shown). The next few weeks will be REALLY challenging, so I hope I don't get stuck or discouraged (or worse yet, blow something up).
Later, -Hugh
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Damn Yasin! Do you want to trade manifolds?! (j/k...I know it's your "baby"...I think yours is freaking awesome Man!
)I figure if the silicone hoses collapse under vacuum after a spirited run I'll go with steel braided A/N. If that doesn't help I'll see what happens after I install a ceramic coated turbine, downpipe and exhaust manifold. If that doesn't work, I'll get a tubine wrap like Timz. If I still have the problem I guess I'm going to have to retap the holes or go to a vacuum distribution block.
I really wanted to design and build a new one from scratch like you and the other advanced members have done (or are doing). I just need more skill, knowledge, and $$$.
Once I get the rest of the systems upgraded I'll come full circle and work on a new manifold.
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I haven't found a good plug yet for the Weber TB, so I hope old "Honest Abe" from 1964 doesn't mind holding back ~12 pounds of boost!!
Check it out...I also relocated my heater hose so I can attach a coil mount bracket. (the stock one runs across the top of the oil filter)
I can't wait to get rid of this TPS ever since I lost the cover. Doh!
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that is a work of art... were did you get the anti sway bar?
Aw shucks you guys are going to make me cry!
The strut tower brace? I got them at the MSA show two years ago (I saved on shipping that way!) You can still get them: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC04
I got a pretty good deal on Suspension Techniques sway bars from shox.com.
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[Edit: Moved more pics over to my project page]
http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=835735&postcount=11
I think i have a 280ZXR
in S130 Series - 280ZX
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Yep. Then you should locate an OEM "ZXR" valve cover and you'll be set!!