hughdogz
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Posts posted by hughdogz
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Hey thanks e_racer!
I hope it was worth all the effort and it won't cause me headaches down the road. I have seven fittings tapped on the underside so I hope the hoses can take the heat!
I swear this is one of the last times I choose form over function, lol! I was able to gasket match to the Weber TB (it took about 1/8" around) and I smoothed out the bumps in the opening (from the air regulator bypass bosses). Also BRAAP recommended that I radius the #1 intake runner.
And it is so much easier to access the exhaust manifold bolts now!Mopar69, if you still want the ugly stock turbo manifold I'll deliver it in person for one meelioon dollars! (in fact, I'd give you both for that much
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Before:
After:
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Good question. I'm about to find out for myself as I'm just finishing up the swap.
[Edit: If it does end up being a problem, I'll get a turbine heat jacket like Timz has. Ceramic coating the exhaust manifold should help cut down the heat too.]
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Finally back home from College and got myself a daily driver Now since I have been use to the Arizona weather, I figured I would take advantage of a beautiful Oregon day!!! Here are some pics. Let me know what you guys think!
I'm getting really tired of the Oregon rain...especially this year.
Cool rig though! All you need now is a snorkel and you'll be set.
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Right on..thanks! It looks like you might have done a shaved fender mirror mod too?
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^^^ that has to be one of the coolest S130's i've seen! Any more pics of the front body piece?
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I agree, it depends on what you're trying to do. I thought you were after software that could do simulations of mechanisms, not just create a series of images.
As far as simulation software goes, 2D working model is about as simple and easy as it gets.
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It looks like they have a time-bombed evaluation copy and you don't need a $2K+ workstation either.
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thanks dog...
Just messin' with ya!
This is probably already covered in the Turbo FAQ sticky but I'll give you my opinoin here.
Most of the IC's from the J-Y's are too small. For example I've heard the Volvo, Starion, etc. IC's are too small for the 2.8L. Once exception might be the Porsche 944 IC but still it is still pretty small.
If you can get a hold of an Isuzu NPR IC (either a large or small unit) you should be fine.
Also on Ebay, you can buy a decent Chinese knockoff for ~$150 so why even mess with a used IC unless it is from a big diesel engine?
Just my $0.02. good luck!
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Well that is B.S. !!
They even watermarked the pics from tuner mag or turbo mag of Austin's ride like it was their own.
Austin had better get a free hood out of this. ;P
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This should be good for 150 HP, so you would need two of them.
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...all of the "universal" knobs spin around b/c you can't tighten them enough around the actuall shifter.. and as i said earlier the wooden one is not lined up properly and it vibrates and rattles like crazy!!! ...
Have you tried installing a jam nut below the knob? Then you can clock it where you want and it shouldn't rattle if the jam nut is tight up against it.
HTH...
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^^^ or OFF. ouch...
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Frank, I wish I could say that I have some "real mods" but alas...most of my stuff is "bolt-on" with almost no adjustability.
Pallnet fuel rail and Aeromotive AFPR, etc. - doesn't make it go any faster
Tokico Advanced handling kit - lower and stiffer, but no adjustablility like coilovers
Cold air K&N intake - maybe adds 1-2 HP
Susp Tech sway bars - bolt on and without adjustable end-links they are almost too stiff
etc. etc. etc.
The only thing I really have going for me is the custom IC setup and adjustable boost control.
Maybe in a couple years I can almost hang with the "big dawgs"
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I've had two so far and hopefully I won't have to buy any more.
I bought an '81 2+2 n/a right out of college. I knew I wanted an L6 Z, but I didn't know anything about them other than that. It was a total mess...I basically saved it from going to the scrapyard. Spent a year restoring it from JY parts and having the bodywork done, painted PPG 1999 Jaguar purple...man I loved it (and so did the girls).
Then I found out about the Coupe and Turbo. Then I realized that I had restored the wrong car
.The search went on and finally I landed a decent job and then found my '82 ZXT.
I still have the 2+ but since it refused to pass DEQ one year (and I refused to buy a new cat for it) it sits to this day.
[Edit: Nothing wrong with rockin a 2+2...in fact they might be superior aerodynamically to the coupe and more stable with the longer wheelbase. I've seen pics of some bada$$ 2+'s in Europe and JPN...I just prefer the coupe]
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I'm glad I read this thread. Zmanco posted a good "tune-up" thing for me to check.
I remember installing some new floor mats from MSA. They made it so I wouldn't get 100% throttle anymore. I was wondering what the heck happened?? I finally put two and two together and realized what I did...duh...
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Yeah! In fact, I cut a hole in the floorboard behind the gas pedal now I'm getting 3x the stock HP!! I just hate the way the cold air goes up my leg now...
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Justin, you are crazy....I gotta see this thing in person
x 2 !!
I can't wait to see you run at the re-paved Portland International Raceway next year (Woodburn dragstrip too!)
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1) Take the Boost PSI you plan on using and multiply it by 14.7; the 14.7 will represent the atmospheric pressure in your area - so use whatever pressure your environment represents, but you have to use the atmospheric value not the Barametric value most turbo/supercharger calculators use. Anyway, if you are going to use 6 Boost PSI then multiply the 6 x 14.7. If you are going to use 10 psi then multiply the 10 x 14.7. Whatever Boost PSI you are going to utilise; it needs to be multiplied by 14.7
This is where stopped reading last night. I don't understand the reasoning here. Are you confusing psi with bar? 1 bar = 1 atm =14.7 psi.
So if you run 6 psi of boost, you are increasing pressure (6+14.7)/14.7 = 1.41 times more than atmospheric. I think this is termed the "pressure ratio" in Corky's book.
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Nice! Is that the BMW idle air controller that someone posted up last week?
If you can't find reinforced hose, how about pressing in a short piece of hard tubing inside the hose (maybe the middle) where it is collapsing?
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WOW! this thing is a virgin...
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/491461263.html
Somone buy this baby!
The owner probably hasn't beaten on it...they listen to Kink FM lol!
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...they're just jealous! Whoo hoo Brian!!
It's unlike like an RB swap or any engine swap (not that that's easy either). So making a front engine FWD car into a rear-engined RWD car doesn't make any sense to them either? Obviously they don't think like we do.
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I forgot to add...ever since I added the horizontal piece that goes between the bottom of the air dam inlet and below the front of the radiator, the car seems more stable at high speeds. It doesn't seem to want to wander as much. Also, I think it directs much more air through my radiator (better downforce and cooling). Even on the hottest days, my temp gauge stays between 3/8th and 1/2. Stock, my temps would be 1/2 -> 5/8ths. Of course a giganto-sized aluminum radiator helps too. I might even be getting a teeny bit more power with the engine running cooler!
I think you'd want to block off using horizontal pieces before (or at least at the same time as) the grill piece or ledge piece.
Hopefully one of the experts will chime in...
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This probably should have been posted in the Aero forum...I don't see anything wrong with with it, the data isn't down.
I was about to say the same thing but jt1 beat me to it.
I looked again and I saw 2x6 being mentioned, but I don't want to take it out of context. It's okay to have a small opening like that when you're at speed (NASCAR) and there is a LOT of pressure that is forcing through the small opening. I think it would be totally different if you're idling in rush hour traffic and your fan is pulling air through that little opening at ~15 MPH.Im thinking of leaving below the bumper open and then set it up where I can just block off the radiator with sheet metal however much I need. If it runs cool, block off a few inches, etc.
If I'm reading this right, I wouldn't block off the radiator at all...instead block off more of the grill.
Im having to consider how an intercooler would come in to play also. Im hoping to turbo the car in the summer. Any thoughts? Could the intercooler sit in front of the radiator? Wouldnt an intercooler need more then a 2x8 opening?
What I've taken away from that thread (someone please correct me if I'm wrong here).
1) You want downforce (and lower drag). You do this by not letting a lot of air come through the grill and out below in front of the radiator or from under the engine bay. You do this by sealing off the area around the front of the radiator, and only let enough air into the engine bay needed to cool the radiator, etc. You can do this by blocking off portions of the grill. This will direct the air over and around the car instead of below it.
2) You want air to flow through cooling components, not around them. Since there is less air coming in, there's less to flow through the components and air will tend to go around the coolers if they can. To direct (force) the air through them, you want to seal with a box like Dragonfly and the others did.
The way I'm approaching it is first seal it up to increase downforce. The cooling components will do their job just fine, but maybe at a lower efficiency since air can still go around them. Next, I want to seal them so that whatever air goes into the IC and oil cooler is also forced through the radiator. Finally, I'll try and seal it so that all the air that comes in is forced through the IC and oil cooler. This may require blocking off more of the frontal area for an S30 but maybe not for my S130.
Again, it is totally different if you're building a track car versus a street driven car. Anyway, I hoped this helped and I'm not mistaken. There is so much Technical information in that forum that it almost it hurts my head trying to soak it all in.
And it is so much easier to access the exhaust manifold bolts now!
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Now since I have been use to the Arizona weather, I figured I would take advantage of a beautiful Oregon day!!! Here are some pics. Let me know what you guys think! 
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Before and After intake manifold pics
in Non Tech Board
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Hey, I appreciate that Mopar. Actually, it's a totally different one...from a 1975 N42. We like this one since it has minimal bosses and no EGR. It has been a Saga...I have the details on my project page. The stock turbo would have been even more work to modify since it has so many fittings not to mention the webbing you mentioned.
Basically sand down the cast surface, cut off the bosses, grind them down. Then I filled in all the leftover holes with a MIG welder I converted to a ghetto spool gun. Grind, polish, lather, rinse, repeat until it looks like it does today.
Also, I finally eliminated the stock turbo bypass valve completely. Before I had my recirculating HKS BOV working without disabling the stock one (mainly because I didn't know how to disable it without a lot of work).
If it ever stops raining, I'll be able to test how it really turned out. Oh well...on to the next project...Wolf3D!