260DET

Thats good, have read the original and its typical and illustrative of a different engine swap. Very useful for those who think a swap is a bit like changing clothes Then there are the swaps where you can buy all the main stuff needed, bliss

I like that idea and may do a variation of it for the front suspension on the S130 project. The variation would be similar to the Mazda RX8 front setup where the coilover shock bottom mounts a bit higher up than shown on the sketch above. That should allow the top of the coilover shock to bolt up into the existing strut tower top. Not sure how it would work on the rear though without a fair bit of fabrication to make a frame for the upper A arm to mount to?

Looks like it will be a VG30DET, would still prefer a single cam VG but using a cast crank in a ~500whp engine is a risk best avoided. Building up a forged internals VG single cam would be excessively expensive at the moment, may do that later once the project is up and running. Bit disappointing, love the light weight and simplicity of the single cammer.

The difference between the two concerns the attachment of the main part of the arm to the inner 'axle', the tube that is threaded internally both ends and which the inner bushes are fitted over. The rest of the arm from memory looks the same, its just beefier where it attaches to that inner tube.

Don't use brass T fittings, they can break in use.

'With good engine management' being the key. Which means a decent aftermarket ECU using MAP, TP, temp etc sensors and properly dyno tuned.

That model RX7 has 5x114.3 studs, stock offset is 40p I believe.

Have used both a high flow TO3 and a GT28RS on my two liter engine, there is no comparison. About 50 more hp at the wheels for a total of 270 whp using limited boost with the RS plus a much superior response that actually is like driving a NA V8. A TO3 should spool quickly on a L6, it is relatively small for a engine of that displacement with the consequence that maximum output will not be high. And comparing two different turbos on two different engines is meaningless. I'm being abrupt on this subject because there seems to be a school of thought around that in effect rubbishes the big step forward gained by aerodynamically superior BB turbos. Which can be misleading to those who are trying to learn something about what type of turbo they should use. You can see the two liter engine in my gallery, link below.

Mine has a door lock solenoid working it too, just fits inside the hatch, not much space there. Sometimes have to press the button twice to get a full release but its otherwise good.

If you don't have any luck here try http://www.z31.com/ But read all the stuff on site first otherwise you may cop some flak for not searching.

Looks like its squatting a fair bit causing the alignment to go into significant negative camber. That plus the fact that strut suspension does not hold its angles as well under heavy loads as more sopisticated suspension like double wishbone or Nissan's own multilink does. I know bugger all about drag racing but is'nt it the usual thing to set the rear of the car a fair bit higher than the front, a lot of rake? I guess so that the car can squat under acceleration giving good weight transfer to the rear without dragging its arse. A bit more rear height may help here? Keep the rear tyres tread flatter on the ground too. Lower the front as well?

If the ZX is a two seater in reasonable condition, how about doing it up? Took me nearly six months to find a decent one. In Japan!

Thanks for that MtC, appreciated. Anyway, another rethink on the engine choice, whatever it is its going to have forged internals. How is your V8 project going, fit in the S30 OK?

If its the same type of Subaru center I had, stub axles from a K case R180 diff slid right in. Make sure the R180 axles are the later version which are thicker at the spline area than the early Z ones, don't know the year they came in but some time in the '80's? Also don't know the situation as to US models.

Hear what you are saying Kenny, the S15 helical R200 bang for buck would be the first choice, for other reasons it would be handy if the RX7 diff could be used. I should have mentioned that the ~500whp would come from a turbo V6 so lots of torque.

Thanks Mas280, so your RX7 has over 500whp and you drag it. Thats a tough test of the transmission, thanks again. EDIT: posted before Kennys post appeared.

No worries, no hurry, MtC

It is Z related, well it might/could be, depends Talking about the last series RX7, from '93 on. Been doing some research on their power handling capability, the crown wheel/ring gear is apparently an 8", which I assume means 8" in diameter. That would put it somewhere close to R200 size? And they have a Torsen type LSD, which someone said wore quickly in racing but he was trying to flog KAAZ centers so .......... Anyway, I'm wondering if it would handle ~500whp doing rolling start circuit work, no clutch dumping. Anyone got any knowledge of these diffs?

Square tube can be handy stuff but the problem in using it as you propose is to attach it effectively to the existing body. It should be ok to run along the bottom of the sills/rockers if its sits along the pinch weld there, so it can be welded in both sides. But flanged open channel is better stuff to use against a flat surface such as a floor, because it can be stitch welded along both edges and plug welded through the flanges as well. But as Jon said, there has been lots of discussion on this subject already.

With all the work in that, wonder why it was not tied in with the front cradle fixing points as well. That looks like them near the left edge of that photo.

What could be used as cutting lube for the drill? Other than proper cutting lube

That would be good if you could do that MtC. Maybe compare the surface finish of the unmachined part of the TT crank with the others? It should be different you'd think. The forged cranks and rods I've seen have a broad line along the length of the item which I guess is the part in between the two dies that are used to form the forging.

Aaaaagh, this is getting too much. The crankshaft reconditioner tells me he cannot recall ever seeing a cast Nissan V6 crank, all forged as far as he knows. Wonder if Nissan made both cast and forged for the same engines? Some markets got cast, some did'nt?

There are a couple of mixed circuit race series in my part of the world where MX5's (Miatas) and S30's can mix it up with similar spec cars. The best S30 driver has no hope against the top running MX5's and I'm talking about a highly regarded S30 driver who often knocks off some very fancy cars with competent drivers. My S30 has big brakes and I often outbrake others but I was watching a MX5 the other day and he was braking way later than I can. That and their corner speed makes them tough to beat on any circuit where power is not everything and the MX5 driver is exploiting his car's advantages. But the MX5 does not appeal to me and thats what its all about, isn't it?

Yeh MtC, I've noticed what you say too. Obviously the VG30DET/TT forged crank would be stronger, my philosophy on a hi-po engine is to build it as strong as possible within a budget. Even if something like a cast crank may not break, it could flex more than a forged one so causing other problems. I'll check with a crank expert but if it all gets too complicated the VG30DET may be first choice. Any idea Mack which Cedric blocks may be stronger? A bigger capacity sounds good. On the RPM thing with a VG30E, seeing that L28's can make power to 7K the better breathing VG has to be able to do the same at least.