260DET

Can't answer all your questions but definately keep the V6, preferably a VG30DET with perhaps a new GT35R turbo. With that combo you probably will need the later Z31 turbo 5 stud rear end.

Typically Chinese the quality varies from factory to factory. I bought mine locally from a shop with a good reputation, it is Chinese and a good one. And about the price you mention. I would not buy that sort of item on Ebay, you could get a dodgy one.

Any further progress? This is interesting.

Mine is filled with Shell Gearbox Oil, thats what its called.

About time that was finished Ez looks the goods. My version is working fine, yours should certainly hold together.

74's setup looks good. Jon, my car is lowered a fair bit and what with all the other things I've done with the front end the question of tension rod operation has been considered at length. But seeing that the car behaves perfectly well under heavy braking, regularly down from 200kph, the 'if it aint broke don't fix it' maxim has been applied. This is with front toe out too. But what has been done is to run a light straight removeable Xmember* under the sump from tension rod chassis pickup point to point. The idea was to prevent side movement of the pickup points under braking. Make of that what you will but there it is. *made of ~30mm square section tubing.

If you want to get serious go a big BB turbo like a GT35R and use a top of the range aftermarket programmable ECU so the engine can be dyno tuned for optimum performance, fuel economy and durability. That is the starting point, otherwise .................

What about valve bounce with these heavier rockers and blunter cams? L's tend to pull the retainers off the valves if you go to heavy springs. Stating the obvious, a system is only as good as its weakest link.

At a practical DIY level it seems that most choose a single turbo rather than twins. Heat loss, space, weight, clutter, complication, cost are all relevant factors, as is the performance of current larger BB turbos.

I'm fairly sure that Ev is related to torque, I guess maximum Ev has some relationship with RPM and torque output. As I said, I don't know a lot about this subject but there does not seem to be a lot of info around on the Ev aspect. Anyway, you have to start somewhere and that site certainly has the goods to do that.

Is'nt the body of most roller rockers made from light weight alloy? Because of the weight issue mentioned by Dragonfly.

Good find, should be useful. The one thing that concerns me about such calculations though is the volumetric efficiency figure which is apparently an assumption. I think that is the Ev figure, .85 to .80. There are quite a few things which can affect that figure significantly, cams, porting, etc. Plus it varies throughout the rev range being related to torque output. I don't know enough about turbos to go further, except to say that if I was using that information I'd try a few different Ev figures and particularly try and match them to an estimated torque curve.

Have heard of Nissan FJ20DET rods being used in L's but don't know that for sure. Those rods regularly do way over 100hp per hole but my guess is that some aftermarket rods would be cheaper and better. Bent rods seem fairly common on highly stressed turbo engines rather than broken rods. Stock RB30ET rods will bend if you get too ambitious with your power output.

Here are a couple of sites where the S130 has been worked over a bit http://www.datsun-280zx-lt1.com/ http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/ Have been trying to get a S130 two seater for about six months, not easy when Nissan AU never brought any in. Got a few serious mods planned too, including five stud 16 x 10" wheels all round, so its quite frustrating.

Maybe Nissan stopped using the early adjustable rod because some were adjusting it up too tight? Stating the obvious but a certain amount of clearance is required. The insufficient travel problem seems to arise when non standard clutches are used, particularly with a heavier clutch. Sometimes the only way round it is to use a smaller ID slave cylinder or a larger ID master cylinder, either of which gives more travel. And a heavier pedal. My only experience with the indecent-exposure-upside-down-back-to-front thing involves the adjustable brake master cylinder rod inside the cabin. When doing that you need to be able to trust any spectators absolutely

There is a six speed box for them now is'nt there? Anyway, have driven a five speed turbo ute, quite a nice box and apparently strong, but the ute was nowhere near as fast as my Zed

So whats wrong with the wheels, not wide enough Use one to stand your Xmas tree in

If there is a structural problem involved I'd attend to that first, maybe put in some bracing or whatever to compensate for any weakened metal. Then I'd get a rust proofing wand spray gun arrangement, one with a flexible wand that enables you to spray into box sections and out of sight crevices. With mine Fishoilene was sprayed into all those sorts of places during the rebuild. You may not have that in the US, its an anti rust penetrating mineral turpentine soluble clear coating that remains tacky for a long time after application. Whatever, you know what I'm getting at, something that goes over rust, neutralises it and prevents further rusting. While your're at it, spray in the sills/rocker panels etc too, great fun, not

Far as I'm concerned for circuit work better brakes than the Toyota fronts/drums rear are a must in almost any competition. Subject to the law of diminishing returns, high end brakes will be one of the more productive investments in your car you will ever make. Outbraking someone into a corner is a very practical and useful way to get past them, besides its a buzz As has been pointed out to me by an instructor, braking is an area where the amateur can loose a lot of time, most of us brake way too early. Better brakes encourage you to brake later, not only because the car stops quicker but because the modulation is better, which helps in trail braking too. Money wise, with bigger brakes you can use less expensive fluid and pads because there is not as much heat stress involved. Spend more, save more. Anyway, enough of that. So is it the general view that the good four spot Wilwoods are comparable with similar spec Brembo and AP calipers? Lets be objective now

Look I'm no expert on turbos, far from it, but I can't see the real world relevance of any such 'formula'. Maybe I'm missing something?

I like the blunter look, problem is to blend it all in with the existing components. Have a look here to see what I did with mine which are steel, just cut a bit off the front and welded in a new piece. Fibreglass bonnet was shortened to match. BTW Gollum, that LH pic of your crunched s130 distresses me every time

Yes, there is no comparison between the old hi flowed TO3 on my two liter and the present GT28RS. The RS gives 60-80 more hp* at the wheels, spools up a lot more quickly and carries boost while driving around town at a level the TO3 never came close to. Can't understand why people still mess around with the old technology *at a higher boost level than the TO3 could reliably be run.