260DET

The situation in Australia probably has to do with the fact that the Nissan engine is not fitted to any domestic model whereas the Toyota is, nothing to do with the quality of either engine. There is also the question as to fitting a manual gearbox to the VH whereas that has been sorted with the Toy in Oz.

This is the thread where my info came from MtC http://pforums.company-hosting.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67200713

The rear hub to hub can be accurately measured though, 1527mm.

Impossible to measure the front hub to hub distance accurately dj with the struts flopping around but somewhere around 1550mm. Hehe Dave

For anyone who would like to know what the front and rear suspension setups look like. Note that the PS rack is mounted behind the Xmember, on the rear no hicas, two bolt R200 diff cover. Off a AU spec SR20 engined 200SX, RHD of course. This lot will be going on Project S130, when the subject arrives from Japan.

What I've been told about setting the VVT is to do dyno runs with it off and then on. Compare the two power curves where they cross over and then set the on and off switching points accordingly. If using an aftermarket ECU the good thing is that on most you will be able to use a single auxiliary output to run the VVT. So a high end ECU giving incremental output is not necessary. For me that means using a MoTec M48 at ~AU$2099 instead of a $3177 M600. The VVT can also be run by a stand alone device, such as a GReddy e-manage so I'm told. So, for anyone doing a transplant there is no excuse for not using the VVT

My 'secret' project is a two seat S130 with a full S14 front/rear suspension swap, Xmember/cradle, the lot. Brake and wheel options alone make it worthwhile. And with 500whp from a VG30DET......... R200 diff should do mine, circuit work, no drags.

Found some info, VVT is good for an extra 30 ft/lbs of torque with the stock motor and is of the on/off type, not incremental. It kicks in at between 3500 and 4000rpm and kicks out at 6100rpm, not sure why it is set to go off at high rpm. As for operation, a good high end aftermarket ECU will handle it, may also be possible to get a stand alone device to do so too. Will post any more relevant info as it comes to hand, must say I'm curious as to why it is set to kick out at high rpm.

How much power are you aiming for?????

On the type of differential, these references to a R230 diff here and elsewhere are confusing. Both the S12 and S15 factory workshop manuals refer to the diff as a R200. Please explain the R230 thing.

What sort of power are you looking at? 500whp using a GT35R turbo? Anyway my point is if you are going that way power wise the extra weight of a multi link rear cradle setup becomes less of an issue. And it has been done and discussed here before. Of course with the multi link rear suspension the stock front suspension then is more likely to show up as inadequate. So you may want to think about a full transplant there as well. It definately pays to look ahead and try to forsee and plan for other upgrades when doing a big power upgrade project.

Just one point, concerning the swaybars. 28mm for the front is just too stiff considering the leverage involved. It will overwhelm the stock type mountings and tend to rip them out, plus it will virtually eliminate independant movement of each side of the suspension. 26mm max is a much better choice. Depending on how much power you have, with a 26mm front bar a 16-18mm rear bar is compatible.

Here is the Z32 service manual if thats any help http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi Sounds like your aims are similar to mine. For an intercooler I have in mind doing away with the two side throttle bodies and modifying the plenum to fit one large TB at the front, right where the fuel pressure regulator presently is. Might be a bit cramped for space to do that on a Z31 compared with a 280ZX. Not strictly necessary of course, just to simplify tuning, pipework etc a bit.

Thanks for the offer, you have already confirmed the essentials though, TT box, clutch and flywheel. Any problems with the spigot bearing? Yeh getting a good aftermarket ECU is a slug in the pocket but I'm going for 500whp with a GT35R turbo so in the long run its worth it, the ECU alone can add significant power. The S30 in my gallery has a MoTec, its just brilliant. Just wondering with your VVT if its possible to add something on just to work it alone. They are not that complex in operation are they? Meggala is good, he is pretty clued up about Nissans.

Increasing the bump setting on the rear shocks should help, depending on where that is now. 225 should not be too bad but 275 should be better, a little bit of squat helps power down. You don't need me to tell you how important that is when its shovelling lots of power

I suspect that some Japanese cars are going from belt to chain for reliability and serviceability purposes. Interesting query, I've no real knowledge of it.

If your speedo is mechanical, it is cable driven, then you may be able to replace the electronic sender in the gearbox with a mechanical one. Not sure about your gearbox but some will take both types. Some questions. Which gearbox and flywheel are you using? Any tricks in fitting a manual gearbox? I have the same engine which is going in a 280ZX. Will be using an aftermarket ECU which will drive the variable valve timing.

I looked at using the 3rd gen RX7 double wishbone setup front and rear on a S130 but decided that the S14 setup was more suitable for 500whp and for other reasons. The RX7's track front and rear is 1466mm, not sure if thats US spec but it would depend on the wheels anyway. Same five stud as Nissan BTW.

Yeh Mack, thats the sort of thing that came up, blokes getting good numbers but something always stuffing up on the VQ. Probably not due to any weakness in the VQ like you indicate but I know the VG will easily handle 500 at the wheels so......

Excellent project, love the ZX coupe:)

The 280ZX nuts are the go, peening is superceded.

I was looking at using a VQ30DET but it was so hard to find any reliable sounding info on their durability and reliability. Seeing 500whp is the aim this was an important consideration, gave up in the end and got a VG30DET instead.

West System is American, believe they have a whole range of epoxy based marine adhesives, fillers, etc. Just looking at the nooks and crannies on your job that will need finishing attention Jon, it seems to me that something a bit better than ordinary bog (bondo) would be a plus.

Rather than just fill it with polyester based bog (bondo) Jon, have you looked at using an epoxy based filler to add a bit of structural strength? I'm going to see what is used for boats, they do use epoxy based fillers etc there.

They look quite reasonable so far, not sure about using the round to finish it off though. Still, its hard to know what else would be better.