260DET

Re engine cooling, consider also the gearbox and diff where they are not getting the airflow they normally would. The dyno place I go to has two fans and even then he takes a break after 10 minutes or so and does something else for a while. I avoid summer tunes too if possible but then its gets effing hot here. On dyno time, selecting a ECU on price can be counter productive as far as saving money goes. MoTec for example are designed to be quick and easy to tune, it does not take much extra dyno time to wipe out any savings on a cheapie. Plus the other cost related things I mentioned before.

Does this GT35R -v- TO4E comparison take into account the improved aerodynamics of the GT? jeffp did mention the exhaust flow out of the GT35R, what about the internals? Anyway, jeffp's dyno sheet will be interesting.

The manufacturer who made mine no longer does them but I believe that K-mac do good ones, although some their other products are often complained about. Part # for the S30 looks to be 540916, check their site here http://www.k-mac.com/ Seem to recall that K-mac had a US agent in California. Noltec may also do them http://www.noltecsuspension.com/

Pushing the LCA's out by whatever means is one way of getting more track, a good thing for the S30. The eccentric camber adjusters on mine have never slipped, probably has something to do with their design because the same design is used in a lot of targa cars. And if they don't slip in that application............

'Hills' where you can load it up at 7000 RPM in fourth gear Dave, I'd like to see that Do like the sound of a good engine screaming on a floor dyno, the back wheels a blur, a heat haze out the back, must admit.

The Haltech should be a dyno tune and forget job, assuming it is an ignition and fuel ECU with the usual sensors already fitted. Unless you change a relevant engine component, such as injectors, it should not require further tuning for a long time. That is the case with my MoTec anyway, having a dyno man who really knows the ECU and what he is doing is essential. In the US there seems to be a lot of DIY on this sort of stuff, personally I don't want to risk an expensive high boost turbo engine through an easy to make tuning mistake when there is a dyno pro who can do it at a reasonable price, it should not take more than an hour or two. Another spinoff is great fuel economy, a badly tuned ECU can be a fuel thief. My MoTec instruction book is very good on the basics, their website may be just as good, I haven't had to go there to have a look in years though.

Anyone tried fitting a Supra double A arm front suspension setup into a S30, S130, Z31? With the Z31, replacing the semi trailing arm cradle assembly with a later multi link cradle assembly makes a lot of sense. But thats quite a different proposition to doing the same with a S30 and lets face it, anything would be better as far as the Z31 goes

I like the B pillar - quarter window line but, yes, that bit of SS trim does look out of place and the chrome trim above the door goes nowhere. How would the car look with the chrome trim simply removed. This works on S30's, providing the gutter paint is OK. On replacing the B pillar SS trim, would it be possible to make something up out of a suitable piece of metal mesh screwed in place?

Interesting and informative post Paul, it prompts a few comments. First, the stock S13 etc rubber bush cradle mounts need to be replaced with either poly or solid substitutes for much improved handling. Second, S13/14's perform very well on the race track, apparently due to an excellent chassis as much as anything else although the suspension seems to play its part. Three, consider the Z32 which uses similar suspension and of course was designed as a high performance car. But I don't know how the Z32 performs in racing, maybe someone else can comment on that. In my limited circuit track experience, once you build in some adjustability the S30's rear suspension performs very well, its the front which is the weak end. Aside from not being able to play around much with Ackermann due to the location of the steering rack, the S30 typically drags the inside of the tyre edge on the inside wheel in a corner. 'Typically' because that seems to be characteristic of strut suspension. Yet very few seem concerned with replacing the front suspension on a S30 for some reason or other. My S30 in the pic is pretty well set up, see how flat its sitting in a high G corner and how flat the rear wheels are sitting, yet note that inside front wheel angle

First of all the T3 is not 'equivalent' to the GT35R, it is inferior in every way. For a start, with the T3 you will be flat out getting 300whp, the 35 should on similar boost pressure do at least 100 more than a similarly configured T3, depending on which turbine A/R. I'm talking driveable power, not a setup which will only start boosting at high rpm. On a side note, I hope your Wolf ECU is better than mine was, MoTec rules

A bare S13 cradle weighs ~28kg so that is being added, plus the extra weight of the partial subframe which has to be built in to the S30 body for the cradle to bolt to. A fueled up stock S30 with driver tends to be arse heavy as it is, so the above is being added plus the extra weight of the S13/14 suspension and drive components over their S30 equivalents. If extra is being added up front to help balance the weight distribution thats a help. But often these sorts of mods are coupled with lighter and more powerful engine swaps. Anyone who does this sort of modding may want to consider testing out the handling of such a modded S30 away from other traffic. Particularly to see how the rear end grips in corners. Which can be fun anyway EDIT- S12 changed to S13 in the first para.

They are so unusual that they suit, if that makes sense. Yeh, good, if you like em Sulio then go for them

Flames are cool, when mine was running rich during upshifts there was only black smoke coming out of the exhaust though. Very disappointing, go the flames

Just like with anything new, there is always some backlash opinion against the new technology. Personally, the GT28RS is the king, TO3 the s**t On a FJ20.

Good info Dave, thanks. My take on the GT35R now is that the .82 turbine A/R is about right for a stockish L28 while a cross flow head three liter equivalent* would be the 1.06? As long as you don't want to pull stumps @ 2000 RPM *RB30ET, VG30ET, VG30DET.

Why would it be done with a straight six, what are the advantages? All the RB's I've ever seen go back with no great clearance, plumbing or other issues. But thats on RHD cars, is there a space problem with LHD? Different with a V engine with say one turbo and where a Xover pipe behind the engine is a problem.

Watchit, this is a family forum

Thanks Rob, that wire speed up thing sounds a bit weird, maybe it could be disabled. I'd like a better one but would rather spend money on the car so its just a means to an end for me.

Tried adjusting the amount of fuel on over run Thumper? That and a capable BOV have a lot to do with not loosing spool between gearshifts. BB turbo of course, a modern one like the Garrett GT-R series which have improved aerodynamics as well. Is the Holset as good? Correctly sized, goes without saying. Don't know about special tweeks but with a good setup including a capable, properly tuned ECU you should pretty well be there.

I'm looking at getting an Italian SIP gas/gasless, 25-150amps with six settings, similar but not the same as this one here http://www.welduk.com/Details.asp?ProductID=246

A custom exhaust system with a single turbo is a lot easier to do with a straight six compared with a V, turbo theoretically is a bit more efficient too. Thats the reason most straight six advocates give anyway. Personally I prefer the V, better weight distribution, shorter crank.

Thanks Nitro, nice looking airdam. Similar to the one Fibreglassman was selling on Ebay a while back, have no contact details for him though.

Is'nt the engine supposed to be idled so that the turbo can slow right down? So when the engine is turned off the turbo RPM is as slow as its ever going to be at idle? One thing I have noticed with a BB turbo though is that it is still rotating no matter how long the engine is idled and continues to do so for several seconds after the engine stops.